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Artesania Latina Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory 1805
- Thread starter AlanOES
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Wow! So, did you cut and place each individual square of tape, or did you cover the decks with a solid layer of tape, cut the squares and then remove every other one? I see no guide lines and can't imagine how you would place each square so perfectly - even if there were lines! Well done Alan!
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Thanks Russ
Yeah I cut each square and placed individually, I described how I did them back in video #27 (seems a long time ago )
There are markings on the deck, (I’m not that good ), 2nd picture in video #31 description
The green looks like it is a template for painting. If you look, it hangs over the deck on one side.Hey Alan,
That looks great. I do have one question, though: is the checked pattern a foil? I mean the green checked one. Because later it's black – did you paint over the foil with black?
As always, it looks incredibly beautiful!! Thanks for showing us.
beautiful work !!!
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Thanks Corsair
It’s squares of masking tape They hang over the edge because it’s not worth cutting them down Also, after painting the black it gives you several easy pull offs to start showing the pattern of squares that need to be removed
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Instructions video #31 Completed
In this final part I deal with the external and internal hull planking for the upper gun deck level, installing the gun port linings, creating the upper wale, masking and painting as required.
Although I show a small hand saw to demonstrate cutting out the horizontal frame sections, I have always used a mini jigsaw for this task to make it quick and easy.
Also in this post I fit the Perspex strips on the starboard hull framework that will later provide fixings for the chains.
A note on this . I struggled to get the nuts onto the M1 bolts as at 10mm long the barely got through the framing. Whether I should have sanded it down more I don’t know, nothing was mentioned at the time apart from getting it smooth and uniform to take the planking. Anyway, I sourced some 12mm long M1 bolts and that made the task a lot easier. As in other videos, I changed the work sequence to suit how I like to do things.
Again, most of these tasks have been explained in detail in my previous posts so again just some picture progress.
In this final part I deal with the external and internal hull planking for the upper gun deck level, installing the gun port linings, creating the upper wale, masking and painting as required.
Although I show a small hand saw to demonstrate cutting out the horizontal frame sections, I have always used a mini jigsaw for this task to make it quick and easy.
Also in this post I fit the Perspex strips on the starboard hull framework that will later provide fixings for the chains.
A note on this . I struggled to get the nuts onto the M1 bolts as at 10mm long the barely got through the framing. Whether I should have sanded it down more I don’t know, nothing was mentioned at the time apart from getting it smooth and uniform to take the planking. Anyway, I sourced some 12mm long M1 bolts and that made the task a lot easier. As in other videos, I changed the work sequence to suit how I like to do things.
Again, most of these tasks have been explained in detail in my previous posts so again just some picture progress.
- Joined
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Instructions video #32 Completed
In video 32 I drill the holes next to the gun ports on the internal hull that will tack the gun tackle mountings
Next I stain/paint and fit the upper deck grilles and shot racks. Note: The instructions are still saying to load these racks with 506 (2mm) shot that has been used on the lower and middle gun decks, but this is incorrect, firstly, they don’t fit the racks correctly, secondly, there isn’t enough of them left, and finally and most importantly, these are for the 12 pounder guns on this deck so the smaller 1.5mm shot (524) is more accurate. However, after loading all the racks with 524 shot I find I only have about 10 left and looking forward I need about another 90 odd to fill the quarter deck racks.
I know from previous correspondence that I have one of the earlier kits so perhaps they have corrected the issue (would be interesting to hear from anyone else doing this kit). I have emailed AL and informed them and asked for more 1.5mm shot, but so far I’ve not had a response.
I then build and fit the 3 sets of steps that lead down to the middle deck.
Next I make and fit the skylight above the pantry and a square compartment just forward of it that is the full height of the deck that I think is the steam trunk to take heat from the stove below up through a grille on the fo’c’sle.
Finally I make and fit the bilge pipe and pump.
The next video (#33) is another marathon task including the upper gun deck guns, beams and lighting, more tables and chairs and some fiddly looking brass sheaves built into wooden blocks of various sizes so I intend to take a few days off from the build as I also have to make a list of all my model railway locos and rolling stock for possible sale
In video 32 I drill the holes next to the gun ports on the internal hull that will tack the gun tackle mountings
Next I stain/paint and fit the upper deck grilles and shot racks. Note: The instructions are still saying to load these racks with 506 (2mm) shot that has been used on the lower and middle gun decks, but this is incorrect, firstly, they don’t fit the racks correctly, secondly, there isn’t enough of them left, and finally and most importantly, these are for the 12 pounder guns on this deck so the smaller 1.5mm shot (524) is more accurate. However, after loading all the racks with 524 shot I find I only have about 10 left and looking forward I need about another 90 odd to fill the quarter deck racks.
I know from previous correspondence that I have one of the earlier kits so perhaps they have corrected the issue (would be interesting to hear from anyone else doing this kit). I have emailed AL and informed them and asked for more 1.5mm shot, but so far I’ve not had a response.
I then build and fit the 3 sets of steps that lead down to the middle deck.
Next I make and fit the skylight above the pantry and a square compartment just forward of it that is the full height of the deck that I think is the steam trunk to take heat from the stove below up through a grille on the fo’c’sle.
Finally I make and fit the bilge pipe and pump.
The next video (#33) is another marathon task including the upper gun deck guns, beams and lighting, more tables and chairs and some fiddly looking brass sheaves built into wooden blocks of various sizes so I intend to take a few days off from the build as I also have to make a list of all my model railway locos and rolling stock for possible sale
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Very nice work. If you don't hear from AL about the shot, find a store that sells bearings.
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Thanks Corsair,
I’ve already preempted that ( as it’s been over a week) and got myself a pack of 500 1.5mm ball bearings
Great progress Alan, I can only applaud your patience and skill. As I told you earlier my apologies to you and others who may have been following my Victory build for the lack of progress, vacations and loss of my modelling room (it's a spare bedroom also) for periods of time brought modelling to s a stop. And to be honest my first attempt at soldering the lights was a bit of a disaster which stopped my mojo somewhat. I've since invested in a proper wire stripper and one of those plastic wire holders from Amazon which should make things a little easier. Having read in your thread re the missing part P70 I sent AL a request yesterday for a replacement. Any missing canon balls I will deal with later. Can't wait to get back to the build once my guests from the UK have departed in a month or so.
So keep up the outstanding work Alan it's a pleasure to follow.
Regards
Tony
So keep up the outstanding work Alan it's a pleasure to follow.
Regards
Tony
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Quick update
Someone on the HMS Victory Builder's facebook page pointed out I had the pump handle the wrong way round
It was late when I did it, that’s my excuse anyway 
All sorted now. I just checked back to video #19 , I did that one correctly
Someone on the HMS Victory Builder's facebook page pointed out I had the pump handle the wrong way round
It was late when I did it, that’s my excuse anyway All sorted now. I just checked back to video #19 , I did that one correctly
Alan,
Just catching up to your superb log. AL went all out with this kit - In your skilled hands it brings this kit to even better results.
Love the fact that you're also including the lights and the figures - !!!!!
Just catching up to your superb log. AL went all out with this kit - In your skilled hands it brings this kit to even better results.
Love the fact that you're also including the lights and the figures - !!!!!
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Instructions video #33 Part 1
Instruction video #33 includes a marathon amount of work so I’m splitting it into a few sections
In this first instalment I build and place the 30 12lb guns on the upper gun deck, and fit the internal side walls in the stern day cabin area.
Well, it’s been a long time since my last post, and I’d be lying if I didn’t admit that it took a fair bit of effort to motivate myself to get on with this latest batch of 30 cannon, after doing 58 previously the repetition was getting a bit monotonous but I finally got there and can look forward to the fact that I only have 14 plus 2 carronades left to do.
So on to the guns, a few things to note
Firstly I think the template should have been made from thinner ply. As these 12 pounders have a shallower gun carriage than the previous 32 and 24 pounders, the side sections (U23.E) dropped too far down in the templates slots to allow the fitting of the front axle assembly and I had to insert small bits of wood in the slots to stop that happening. As before I’ve used small lengths of blackened 0.3mm brass rod for the axle pins. Again I have included my own addition of the rear upper ring bolts but for these smaller 12lb guns I used some smaller brass photo etched ring bolts that Were part of some 1/100 scale aftermarket enhancements for the Heller Victory kit. I didn’t do that kit but purchased the parts to enhance my 1/100 scale Del Prado Victory many years ago
As with my other guns, I’ve made rope coils on the gun tackles
Again I’m just including photos of the build stages
Instruction video #33 includes a marathon amount of work so I’m splitting it into a few sections
In this first instalment I build and place the 30 12lb guns on the upper gun deck, and fit the internal side walls in the stern day cabin area.
Well, it’s been a long time since my last post, and I’d be lying if I didn’t admit that it took a fair bit of effort to motivate myself to get on with this latest batch of 30 cannon, after doing 58 previously the repetition was getting a bit monotonous but I finally got there and can look forward to the fact that I only have 14 plus 2 carronades left to do.
So on to the guns, a few things to note
Firstly I think the template should have been made from thinner ply. As these 12 pounders have a shallower gun carriage than the previous 32 and 24 pounders, the side sections (U23.E) dropped too far down in the templates slots to allow the fitting of the front axle assembly and I had to insert small bits of wood in the slots to stop that happening. As before I’ve used small lengths of blackened 0.3mm brass rod for the axle pins. Again I have included my own addition of the rear upper ring bolts but for these smaller 12lb guns I used some smaller brass photo etched ring bolts that Were part of some 1/100 scale aftermarket enhancements for the Heller Victory kit. I didn’t do that kit but purchased the parts to enhance my 1/100 scale Del Prado Victory many years ago
As with my other guns, I’ve made rope coils on the gun tackles
Again I’m just including photos of the build stages
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Once again Alan your patience is astounding. Thanks for the tip re the template. I do like the little graphics you include in your images, great idea. The end of the guns is in sight now, you must be happy with that. I have noted that you coiled the ropes which is not done in the instructions, can I ask your technique for doing that.
I'm now back from holiday (again) and my UK guests have departed. In the next couple of days I hope to have turned the spare bedroom back to my model room. Soldering here I come!
Keep up the wonderful work it is a joy to watch.
Tony
I'm now back from holiday (again) and my UK guests have departed. In the next couple of days I hope to have turned the spare bedroom back to my model room. Soldering here I come!
Keep up the wonderful work it is a joy to watch.
Tony
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Hi Alan. You’ve given a pretty comprehensive account of your method, I have no doubt now how to go about making up and rigging canons, your log is a keeper for reference. As with the rest of your build quite superb.
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Hi Tony
Thanks for your comments
Yeah, the guns were getting tedious but the end is in sight
I will post up a little description of how I do the rope coils
Glad to hear you have your modelling room back at last. I look forward to seeing your updates soon
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Rope Coils
Following my last post, TonyJ asked me to describe how I do the rope coils. I know Tony is a fair way off from doing any guns so I was going to do it when I got to my next batch of guns, but it occurred to me that some others may wish to see it, so here goes
First off I would like to say that I don’t claim total credit for this, I have watched a few videos on YouTube and cherry picked the bits I liked and adapted it to the way I wanted to work. I will number the stages of the process followed by numbered photos
1. Start off by getting a piece or flat smooth plastic,( I use the lid from one of the components boxes supplied with the kit) and stick lines of double sided tape to it. Obviously it can be as big or small as you want depending on how many you want to do in each batch. From what I’ve seen it appears that most modellers make the coils as a stand alone item, as I’m doing in this demo, then attach them to the deck adjacent to the guns to give the desired effect
I decided to do the coils on the thread attached to the block a tackles which I thought was more prototypical. If you do the same, you will need to leave spaces between the rows of tape to lay the block and tackles while you carry on working.
2. Remove the top cover of the double sided tape on the upper row and place a circular former in the centre of the tape at one end
The former can be anything you want depending on the size and scale of your coils
I actually used a spare gun carriage wheel and sanded it down as small as I could without it breaking, then gave it a coat of varnish to aid constantly moving it on and off the tape and to prevent the thread trying to attach itself to it.
3. Place your length of thread at the top of the former and make sure it’s stuck well to the tape.
4. Using a pair of tweezers, start coiling the thread around the former, making sure it stays tight and close as it circles.
5. Once you’ve reached your desired size, remove the former and place it further along the tape ready to start your next coil. Flatten the coil you’ve just made down onto the tape using the flat end of the tweezers.
6. Once you’ve done all the coils in your batch, brush in a 50/50 mix of white glue and water and leave till fully dried.
7. Once dry, scoop the coils off the tape with a wide enough blade.
8. If all has gone to plan, the underside of the coil that was against the tape should not be discoloured and that’s the side to face upwards on the deck.
9. Here is one of mine made on the block and tackle. If you do them like this you will find that once the gun is fixed to the deck and the slack taken up on the block and tackles, you will need to do some coiling and dressing of the thread to loose the excess length.
I hope some of you will find this helpful
Following my last post, TonyJ asked me to describe how I do the rope coils. I know Tony is a fair way off from doing any guns so I was going to do it when I got to my next batch of guns, but it occurred to me that some others may wish to see it, so here goes
First off I would like to say that I don’t claim total credit for this, I have watched a few videos on YouTube and cherry picked the bits I liked and adapted it to the way I wanted to work. I will number the stages of the process followed by numbered photos
1. Start off by getting a piece or flat smooth plastic,( I use the lid from one of the components boxes supplied with the kit) and stick lines of double sided tape to it. Obviously it can be as big or small as you want depending on how many you want to do in each batch. From what I’ve seen it appears that most modellers make the coils as a stand alone item, as I’m doing in this demo, then attach them to the deck adjacent to the guns to give the desired effect
I decided to do the coils on the thread attached to the block a tackles which I thought was more prototypical. If you do the same, you will need to leave spaces between the rows of tape to lay the block and tackles while you carry on working.
2. Remove the top cover of the double sided tape on the upper row and place a circular former in the centre of the tape at one end
The former can be anything you want depending on the size and scale of your coils
I actually used a spare gun carriage wheel and sanded it down as small as I could without it breaking, then gave it a coat of varnish to aid constantly moving it on and off the tape and to prevent the thread trying to attach itself to it.
3. Place your length of thread at the top of the former and make sure it’s stuck well to the tape.
4. Using a pair of tweezers, start coiling the thread around the former, making sure it stays tight and close as it circles.
5. Once you’ve reached your desired size, remove the former and place it further along the tape ready to start your next coil. Flatten the coil you’ve just made down onto the tape using the flat end of the tweezers.
6. Once you’ve done all the coils in your batch, brush in a 50/50 mix of white glue and water and leave till fully dried.
7. Once dry, scoop the coils off the tape with a wide enough blade.
8. If all has gone to plan, the underside of the coil that was against the tape should not be discoloured and that’s the side to face upwards on the deck.
9. Here is one of mine made on the block and tackle. If you do them like this you will find that once the gun is fixed to the deck and the slack taken up on the block and tackles, you will need to do some coiling and dressing of the thread to loose the excess length.
I hope some of you will find this helpful
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