- Joined
- Oct 23, 2018
- Messages
- 949
- Points
- 403
My thoughts
-
SUBSCRIBE TO SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!
The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.
NOTE THAT OUR NEXT ISSUE WILL BE MARCH/APRIL 2026 -
Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.
BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 71
First thought, mm Peter missed to take images from what he did so he took some from the real ship ....
Haha,
In that case, you might see that they hooked some blocks the other way around on the 1:1.
That presumably happened in 2022 after the new masts were installed.
Now you can go two ways:
-either the blocks on the 1:1 do not conform to the old specifications.
-or the blocks on my 1:50 do not conform to the 1:1.
Food for thought. There are already discussions anyway. Following my model featuring the skipper and mate's quarters in the aft section, there were already volunteers wondering if the engine room could be reconfigured along with the engine. So that part of this aft accommodation could be restored. But that has been set aside; it would be too drastic a 'remodeling' of all the equipment in the engine room.
Regards, Peter
For the next steps, I laid the mast flat on the workbench.
The leading edge of the sail was tied to the 10 mast hoops:
The lashing was made as much as possible using the knot shown on the insert. However, my line started in the eye of the sail and then went around the hoop.
First, I attached the gaff to the mast using the line with the pearl beads:
I will paint this matte black to remove the shine.
Next, it was the sail's turn to the gaff:
This was secured to the gaff with Marline hitches. Pay close attention: once the line has been wrapped around the gaff and pulled forward through the eyelet in the hem behind the leech line, the line must first go over the horizontal line and only then underneath. When tightening the line, it locks itself in place.
PS: the first 2 went well, but I made a mistake on the 3rd one. But you notice that immediately when tightening: the line does not clamp itself.
And after an hour of knotting, this is the result.
Also on the flat: Claw and Peak Halyard. In the old specifications, these are called 'Bezaanbinnenval' and 'Bezaannokkeval':
Claw Halyard: I have already described the upper block with 0,45 mm line. The lower block is a 4 mm 2-sheave hook block. The hook opening is lashed shut.
In the old specifications: "The lower block (with the hook perpendicular to the axis) was hooked from starboard to port into a longitudinally elongated bracket on top of the claw.
The halyard was rigged in such a way that the hauling part on the starboard side came down from the forward (the innermost, the one closest to the mast) sheave and was secured to a cleat in the cleat rack on the starboard side (secured with the sun)."
Peak halyard: I have already described the 3 blocks at the rear of the mast. As well as the 2 slings and 2 timbles. The fixed end of the 0,45 mm line is secured with a lashed loop approximately in the middle of the gaff.
The 2 brackets around the slings got there 4 mm single-sheave hook block. The hook opening is lashed shut.
In the old specifications: "In each of the 2 brackets, a sheave hook block (hook perpendicular to the bead) was hooked in from bottom to top; with a lying gaff, from front to back, so that the opening of the hook with a standing gaff was directed slightly upwards/backwards.
On the inside, the halyard was spliced into a wide loop. The halyard was spliced around the gaff just before the middle with this loop, ran upwards and from front to back through the lower upper block; downwards and from front to back through the lower lower block. Then again upwards and from front to back through the middle upper block, downwards and from front to back through the upper lower block. Again upwards and from back to front through the upper upper block on which the hauling part was secured to the bead rack in the port side."
Ps: the 'from front to back' should be interpreted with the upper blocks hanging downwards.
With the provisionally secured gaff, the mast could be placed back in the vise:
The halyard lines are already settling a bit, but later I will set them all into their natural shape.
The next step is to fit the mizzen boom with the lashed blocks and lines.
Regards, Peter
The leading edge of the sail was tied to the 10 mast hoops:
The lashing was made as much as possible using the knot shown on the insert. However, my line started in the eye of the sail and then went around the hoop.
First, I attached the gaff to the mast using the line with the pearl beads:
I will paint this matte black to remove the shine.
Next, it was the sail's turn to the gaff:
This was secured to the gaff with Marline hitches. Pay close attention: once the line has been wrapped around the gaff and pulled forward through the eyelet in the hem behind the leech line, the line must first go over the horizontal line and only then underneath. When tightening the line, it locks itself in place.
PS: the first 2 went well, but I made a mistake on the 3rd one. But you notice that immediately when tightening: the line does not clamp itself.
And after an hour of knotting, this is the result.
Also on the flat: Claw and Peak Halyard. In the old specifications, these are called 'Bezaanbinnenval' and 'Bezaannokkeval':
Claw Halyard: I have already described the upper block with 0,45 mm line. The lower block is a 4 mm 2-sheave hook block. The hook opening is lashed shut.
In the old specifications: "The lower block (with the hook perpendicular to the axis) was hooked from starboard to port into a longitudinally elongated bracket on top of the claw.
The halyard was rigged in such a way that the hauling part on the starboard side came down from the forward (the innermost, the one closest to the mast) sheave and was secured to a cleat in the cleat rack on the starboard side (secured with the sun)."
Peak halyard: I have already described the 3 blocks at the rear of the mast. As well as the 2 slings and 2 timbles. The fixed end of the 0,45 mm line is secured with a lashed loop approximately in the middle of the gaff.
The 2 brackets around the slings got there 4 mm single-sheave hook block. The hook opening is lashed shut.
In the old specifications: "In each of the 2 brackets, a sheave hook block (hook perpendicular to the bead) was hooked in from bottom to top; with a lying gaff, from front to back, so that the opening of the hook with a standing gaff was directed slightly upwards/backwards.
On the inside, the halyard was spliced into a wide loop. The halyard was spliced around the gaff just before the middle with this loop, ran upwards and from front to back through the lower upper block; downwards and from front to back through the lower lower block. Then again upwards and from front to back through the middle upper block, downwards and from front to back through the upper lower block. Again upwards and from back to front through the upper upper block on which the hauling part was secured to the bead rack in the port side."
Ps: the 'from front to back' should be interpreted with the upper blocks hanging downwards.
With the provisionally secured gaff, the mast could be placed back in the vise:
The halyard lines are already settling a bit, but later I will set them all into their natural shape.
The next step is to fit the mizzen boom with the lashed blocks and lines.
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Rope sizes look perfect, Peter. As I mentioned previously: every detail attended to...
Thanks for this (quick) replay, Paul. Then they were doing in the old days a good job.
I 'only' converted the indicated diameter of 22 mm of the main ropes currently set. That is 0.44 mm in 1:50 scale. I used the 0.45 mm from Ropes of Scale instead. I think no one will see that 0,01 mm difference ...... 
Regards, Peter
The navara looks great Peter, good choice.
Thanks, Maarten en Stephan. Yes, the Navarra is also very nice to work with. Next test is the main sail. If a full sail can be fold correctly in scale.
Of course I can …..
But in this case: why do it difficult when it can be done easy.... A little box with many little buggers and some paint …..Regards, Peter
Good morning Peter. Fabulously detailed as always within scale too- awesome. Cheers Grant
I have no idea what I'm looking at, but I like it alot!
Hello Peter,
You are doing beautiful work on your rigging.
Bill
You are doing beautiful work on your rigging.
Bill
Thanks for the compliments and nice words, Grant, Richard and Bill.
Regards, Peter
Making the 2-sheave blocks with sister hooks took quite a bit of time:
The 4 mm blocks have a becket, the other 2 are 3.5 mm blocks.
After making all the other blocks, I could start rigging the mizzen boom:
From back to front:
A: 4 mm 1-sheave hook blocks for both topping lifts.
B: the hook with 0.45 mm line for tightening the clew of the sail. The line runs over a sheave at the end of the boom and runs along the bottom to the front.
B1: the line has a sling with a metal eye at the end into which a 4 mm 1-sheave hook block with a becket is hooked. A sling has been fitted around the 2 white cleats. Also with a metal eye. Inside is a 4 mm 1-sheave hook block. A 0.35 mm line runs through the blocks.
C: 2 blocks on either side of the boom with 2 sheaves on each side through which the 2x2 reefing lines run.
D: the 4 mm 2-sheave blocks with sister hooks and becket for both sheets. These run to the eyes on the bulwark on either side level with the lifeboat.
E: a 3.5 mm 2-sheave block with sister hooks for the downhaul of the boom claw. This runs to an eye on the deck to prevent the boom from being lifted.
The boom mounted on the mast. In the following pictures, most of the light comes from behind to bring out the details and the fine fabric of the sail.
A to E, the same as in the previous photo.
F: 3.5 mm 2-sheave block with sister hooks for the tack of the sail. This is secured on the starboard side to an eye on the deck just behind the mast.
G: the throat halyard, as described in the previous post.
H: the peak halyard, same as described earlier.
I: both 'bak stagen/bulwark stays.
J: the line for the monkey halyard.
PS: Hooking the blocks with sister hooks is a skill in itself. It took quite a bit of time and energy ....... 1 hook in, 2nd in, 1st out, 1st in, 2nd out ...... ggggrrrr
A bit more zoomed in on the gaff and and both bottom angles:
A: the 3,5 mm 2-sheave block with sister hooks for the tack. It will be secured on the starboard beside the mast.
B: the 3,5 mm 2-sheave block with sister hooks for the downhaul, secured on the port side beside the mast.
All hook openings have been lashed shut. The lashed slings have metal eyelets. On the Balder itself they are made of plain metal. I thought the brass looked quite nice.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank Ab @Ab Hoving warmly for his advice on making this sail in this way. The Navarra is a wonderful fabric to work with.
Before I can start placing the mast and securing the rigging, I first need to install some eyes and blocks on the deck.
Regards, Peter
The 4 mm blocks have a becket, the other 2 are 3.5 mm blocks.
After making all the other blocks, I could start rigging the mizzen boom:
From back to front:
A: 4 mm 1-sheave hook blocks for both topping lifts.
B: the hook with 0.45 mm line for tightening the clew of the sail. The line runs over a sheave at the end of the boom and runs along the bottom to the front.
B1: the line has a sling with a metal eye at the end into which a 4 mm 1-sheave hook block with a becket is hooked. A sling has been fitted around the 2 white cleats. Also with a metal eye. Inside is a 4 mm 1-sheave hook block. A 0.35 mm line runs through the blocks.
C: 2 blocks on either side of the boom with 2 sheaves on each side through which the 2x2 reefing lines run.
D: the 4 mm 2-sheave blocks with sister hooks and becket for both sheets. These run to the eyes on the bulwark on either side level with the lifeboat.
E: a 3.5 mm 2-sheave block with sister hooks for the downhaul of the boom claw. This runs to an eye on the deck to prevent the boom from being lifted.
The boom mounted on the mast. In the following pictures, most of the light comes from behind to bring out the details and the fine fabric of the sail.
A to E, the same as in the previous photo.
F: 3.5 mm 2-sheave block with sister hooks for the tack of the sail. This is secured on the starboard side to an eye on the deck just behind the mast.
G: the throat halyard, as described in the previous post.
H: the peak halyard, same as described earlier.
I: both 'bak stagen/bulwark stays.
J: the line for the monkey halyard.
PS: Hooking the blocks with sister hooks is a skill in itself. It took quite a bit of time and energy .......
1 hook in, 2nd in, 1st out, 1st in, 2nd out ...... ggggrrrrA bit more zoomed in on the gaff and and both bottom angles:
A: the 3,5 mm 2-sheave block with sister hooks for the tack. It will be secured on the starboard beside the mast.
B: the 3,5 mm 2-sheave block with sister hooks for the downhaul, secured on the port side beside the mast.
All hook openings have been lashed shut. The lashed slings have metal eyelets. On the Balder itself they are made of plain metal. I thought the brass looked quite nice.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank Ab @Ab Hoving warmly for his advice on making this sail in this way. The Navarra is a wonderful fabric to work with.
Before I can start placing the mast and securing the rigging, I first need to install some eyes and blocks on the deck.
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Nicely done, Peter. I'm looking forward to seeing the lines tightened up one day. This is going to be pretty special!
Thanks for the compliment, Paul.
How is the thumb? You can do your job?
I can walk pretty well …..
Regards, Peter
Thanks for asking, Peter. Back to work, tomorrow. The owner doesn't take time off for injury or illness unless it's really serious
.