Belle Poule 1780 by Donnie

Thank you all for the kind words.

I have now built the partition along with this small "house" - I am not sure what the name of it is. I am sure it has one. Pay attention to the tabs along the top of the walls and also the arrangement of the windows. This can be tricky.


aft-box01.jpg
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  1. Now I am ready to mark off the location to drill holes for the iron bolts at the Cannon Port Lids.
  2. The instructions tell you which nails to use. You will have to cut the LENGTH off about half as they are too long. However, you can cut them shorter if you wish.

    iron-bolts-side-planking01.jpg​


  3. This image is part of the plans that show the Nails' location on the hull's side. The holes in the plans are too close to my desire. Therefore I made a minimal change and added about .5mm to the overall dimensions to 'move' the nail heads a little further from the Port Lids as shown below. Dimensions are in millimeters.

    iron-bolts-side-planking03.jpg​

  4. Using a sharp tool to indent the spot for drilling.

    iron-bolts-side-planking02.jpg​


  5. This is a super nice tool from Micro-Mark that is a must-have . The chuck jaw is an additional attachment. It is a screwdriver but as you can see, you can also use it as a drill. The drill or tool SPEED runs at just the right speed rotation as to allow a lot of control. It is not like a dremel. I would say the RPM is about 120 revolutions per minute. As opposed to Dremel being near 3000 to 5000 and above. This is the order details items numbers Ultra-Slim Power Tech Driver Set Item #: 89993, Drill Chuck For Precision Powered Screwdrivers Item #: 86259


    mm-tool.jpg​
 
Donnie said:
  1. Ora sono pronto a contrassegnare la posizione in cui praticare i fori per i bulloni di ferro ai coperchi del portello dei cannoni.
  2. Le istruzioni ti dicono quali unghie usare. Dovrai tagliare la LUNGHEZZA di circa la metà perché sono troppo lunghi. Tuttavia, puoi tagliarli più corti se lo desideri.



  3. Questa immagine fa parte delle planimetrie che mostrano la posizione dei Chiodi sulla fiancata dello scafo. I buchi nei piani sono troppo vicini al mio desiderio. Pertanto ho apportato una modifica minima e aggiunto circa 0,5 mm alle dimensioni complessive per "spostare" le teste dei chiodi un po' più lontano dai coperchi delle porte, come mostrato di seguito. Le dimensioni sono in millimetri.


  4. Utilizzando uno strumento affilato per indentare il punto per la perforazione.



  5. Questo è uno strumento super carino di Micro-Mark che è un must . La ganascia del mandrino è un accessorio aggiuntivo. È un cacciavite ma come puoi vedere puoi usarlo anche come trapano. Il trapano o l'utensile SPEED funziona alla giusta velocità di rotazione per consentire un grande controllo. Non è come un dremel. Direi che l'RPM è di circa 120 giri al minuto. Al contrario di Dremel che è vicino a 3000 a 5000 e oltre. Questi sono i dettagli dell'ordine, i numeri degli articoli Set di driver Power Tech ultra-sottili Articolo n.: 89993 , Mandrino per trapano per cacciaviti elettrici di precisione Articolo n.: 86259


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Thank you Jim for helping with this answer.

I am finished for now with the treenailing. Most of it was done WITHOUT glue. Just drill the holes and tapped the toothpick in. They are not coming out.

Now, I have to install the Bolts onto the side of the Port Lids before I can start on the Deck Furniture and Cannons. I have my old T3i canon camera back working again. Last year, I removed the IR glass so the camera would take photos of "Astronomical Full Spectrum photography". Needless to say, that does not look good in real-life photos. So, I finally got an IR Filter that screws onto the front of the lens (as a means to correct IR Blocking. Since I had taken the IR Blocking Glass out).
I wish now I had not done that, and as it turned out, I never really got to do any astronomy photography with it.

Oh, it had a coat of Linseed Oil on the deck.

deck-planking22.jpgdeck-planking23.jpgdeck-planking24.jpgdeck-planking25.jpgdeck-planking26.jpgdeck-planking27.jpgdeck-planking28.jpg
 
Donnie said:
Thank you Jim for helping with this answer.

I am finished for now with the treenailing. Most of it was done WITHOUT glue. Just drill the holes and tapped the toothpick in. They are not coming out.

Now, I have to install the Bolts onto the side of the Port Lids before I can start on the Deck Furniture and Cannons. I have my old T3i canon camera back working again. Last year, I removed the IR glass so the camera would take photos of "Astronomical Full Spectrum photography". Needless to say, that does not look good in real-life photos. So, I finally got an IR Filter that screws onto the front of the lens (as a means to correct IR Blocking. Since I had taken the IR Blocking Glass out).
I wish now I had not done that, and as it turned out, I never really got to do any astronomy photography with it.

Oh, it had a coat of Linseed Oil on the deck.

View attachment 347787View attachment 347788View attachment 347789View attachment 347790View attachment 347791View attachment 347792View attachment 347793
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Good morning, I apologize for the mistake I made of not having read enough, forgive me?
 
Donnie said:
Thank you Jim for helping with this answer.

I am finished for now with the treenailing. Most of it was done WITHOUT glue. Just drill the holes and tapped the toothpick in. They are not coming out.

Now, I have to install the Bolts onto the side of the Port Lids before I can start on the Deck Furniture and Cannons. I have my old T3i canon camera back working again. Last year, I removed the IR glass so the camera would take photos of "Astronomical Full Spectrum photography". Needless to say, that does not look good in real-life photos. So, I finally got an IR Filter that screws onto the front of the lens (as a means to correct IR Blocking. Since I had taken the IR Blocking Glass out).
I wish now I had not done that, and as it turned out, I never really got to do any astronomy photography with it.

Oh, it had a coat of Linseed Oil on the deck.

View attachment 347787View attachment 347788View attachment 347789View attachment 347790View attachment 347791View attachment 347792View attachment 347793
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That’s a very nice looking deck, Donnie.
It will not sound surprising that I like the look of de linseed oiled planks.
Regards, Peter
 
Hi Frank, of course, I will forgive you. It is ok.

Thank you all for the likes -

Now, starting on the Iron Bolts - 1) Brass Black, 2) Rinse Water, 3) then a little machine oil to help seal in the black.
The Bolt's heads do not insert 100% flush, but they do sit tight. I thought about trying to "recess" them, but that might be difficult to repeat the process so they all look the same. This image is very close up. In real life, they look flush with planking. The nail heads could have been a little smaller in diameter, but it is what it is.

iron-bolts-side-planking04.jpg
 
Donnie said:
Hi Frank, of course, I will forgive you. It is ok.

Thank you all for the likes -

Now, starting on the Iron Bolts - 1) Brass Black, 2) Rinse Water, 3) then a little machine oil to help seal in the black.
The Bolt's heads do not insert 100% flush, but they do sit tight. I thought about trying to "recess" them, but that might be difficult to repeat the process so they all look the same. This image is very close up. In real life, they look flush with planking. The nail heads could have been a little smaller in diameter, but it is what it is.

View attachment 347863
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Hi Donnie, in that position I think they are the hooks for the rigging of the guns, those gunboats on the main deck I don't think there are the 1672162326863.jpeg

la belle poule di a.molle 1-36 (10).jpg
 
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