This image demonstrates how well this kit deck planking strips are very accurate - note that only the "char" has been removed. Very nice fitment.
Yes, the Deck Planks are all laser cut - and - the patterns are also etched out on the false deck as well.
The "Assemble Area V" is now complete. Next is Area VI (this fills in the aft portion of planking).
Next is Assembly Area VI and these are the parts. I separated and arranged the Left and Right Sections so as not to get confused (which is easy for me to do).
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Well if right and left are confusing, try remembering port from starboard....
It is nice they have such high quality and marked parts for all the deck work.
It is nice they have such high quality and marked parts for all the deck work.
Well, its not so much the words left and right, but it is the "shape" of the parts. I agree that instead of using L and R, they should have used Port and Starboard. One way that I always remember is that PORT has 4 letters and so does LEFT and that is referenced looking towards the Bow. (I hope that I am correct on that !!!)
I guess it's near time for me to grab a lot of toothpicks to do the treenailing of the deck. I was just going to drill tiny holes and then scrape the deck to "fill in" the holes with sawdust and then use linseed oil, but I don't think that will look good as the fake treenails will be too dark.
Thank you all for the likes.
So, I am finished with the major part of the Deck Planking. These images just show a "typical close-up" of the "gap" that is present - it will be filled in with the waterways later.
So, I am finished with the major part of the Deck Planking. These images just show a "typical close-up" of the "gap" that is present - it will be filled in with the waterways later.
Next, these are the parts for the Aft Partition wall.
Old school treenailing of the deck. I don't have a draw plate. I have heard good and bad about them. If anyone can convince me of which one to buy and an example of how to use one, I might consider it. Toothpicks are getting kind of old doing it this way.
The reason is that I have a friend near to me that I went to his house as he is building the Le Feuron - he showed me his draw plate - but he admitted that he could not get the treenail to the size he wanted because the draw plate continues to either break the treenail or not make the treenail correctly. Maybe his brand of draw plate - I am not sure.
The reason is that I have a friend near to me that I went to his house as he is building the Le Feuron - he showed me his draw plate - but he admitted that he could not get the treenail to the size he wanted because the draw plate continues to either break the treenail or not make the treenail correctly. Maybe his brand of draw plate - I am not sure.
Hello Donnie, I have found that cheap drawing plates also do the job, it depends on the sanding whether the drawing plates are good. When planking the deck with treenails, I first sanded the protrusions flush with sandpaper and then worked with the drawing plate, with little pressure so that the nail does not tear (fringe formation), then polish with steel wool.
Hi Donnie. Pulling a toothpick all the way through a draw plate to the desired thickness is almost impossible. I only 'turned' a few millimeters of the tip to the desired thickness:
The hole in the draw plate was chosen so that the point made is slightly thicker than the drilled hole. With a little bit of wood glue on the tip, it turns easily into the hole and is then stuck. Partly due to the straight sides of the tip.
Here's my methode: --> How to point new Toothpick Treenails <--, with this outcome: --> Toothpick Treenail <--, and --> (Linseed) Oiled <--
I chose this way because a regular toothpick tip /\, when inserted and pressed will make your drilled hole wider at the edge. Of course, you can also choose to drill a smaller hole first with at the end hopefully the desired width.
But I prefer to control this small dimensions myself.
Regards, Peter
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OK I think I misunderstood something, sorry I thought Donnie meant the drawing plate for smoothing the deck. Sorry my mistake
I saw your posts, Tobias. Now we have clear the difference between Draw- and Scrape Plates.
Regards, peter
Yes, Peter, you said it.I saw your posts, Tobias. Now we have clear the difference between Draw- and Scrape Plates.
Regards, peter
You can see the translation problems and how different the names are in the different countries. Sometimes pictures are quite good.
An often mistake is also, to use a drawplate which is usually used by juwelier makers - these drawplates are used for silver or gold wire and press the wire to a smaller diameter, so the material will not get cut away, but pressed and the wire will get longer.
We need drawplates which really cut the wood material away - somehow scraping the oversize.
Another mistake is often to jump over diemeters - you have to pull the wood through each size, maybe sometimes 2 or 3 times the same size
One of the best drawplates is sold by Byrnes Maschines - highly recommended
We need drawplates which really cut the wood material away - somehow scraping the oversize.
Another mistake is often to jump over diemeters - you have to pull the wood through each size, maybe sometimes 2 or 3 times the same size
One of the best drawplates is sold by Byrnes Maschines - highly recommended
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I agree with you Uwe. That's why I used the draw-plate from the 'back side':
And it is indeed from:
Byrnes Model Machines - Drawplate
Byrnes Model Machines produces precision-engineered miniature Table Saws and Thickness Sanders for Ship Modelers, Dollhouse Makers and Model Railroad Builders; every machine has an accuracy measured in thousandths of an inch.
byrnesmodelmachines.com
Well thank you everyone for the great responses. As Uwe, Petere, and others said, I will invest in a Byrnes Drawplate.
I temporarily stopped adding treenails so that I can go ahead and install the waterways. The first two images show how the strips are beveled on both sides.
