Belle Poule 1780 by Donnie

Heinrich

Staff member
Bluenose Moderator
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
7,269
Points
738

I am glad to see that the keel has worked out Donnie. The notch is a great idea to indicate where the stern planking should end/begin.
 

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
EDIT: Friends, it seems that I am getting worse about figuring things out for myself. After I went back and re-read this post, I am TOTALLY embarrassed - I am thinking of just deleting this post !!!

I am laying down my first plank #2a, 2b, and 2c. Now, the manual says that the PLANK JOINTS (BUTTS) are supposed to meet OVER the middle of the skeleton part (which is actually the Bulkheads.

planking-05.jpg



Well, at least NOT SO for #2a, 2b, and 2c as you can see the joints of these parts are way off and the closest joint is actually very close to the REAL frame.
So, I do not understand. I can only assume that when the lower planks start to cover the lower bulkheads that it will be THOSE planks that will line up with that.

What to do? The planks here can not be modified to suit the bulkhead alignments - that clearly will not work - so therefore, I will just NUDGE (1mm) of the plank to line up with the real frame joints as shown. (the TOP two arrows)


planking-03.jpg


planking-04.jpg
 
Last edited:

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
At my office work - I am highly technical as being a Radio Engineer and one of my jobs is not only CAD drawings but also some technical manuals too. It is very important to be as step by step as possible with clear instructions so I do have a tendency to be taking everything literal - I need to pick back up with my logical skills -
Now, the manual for the Poole is nice (actually very nice), but it seems that a detail that is really needed is somehow left out for you to figure out on your own. I also used to read the plans and instructions way ahead to see about any problems I might encounter - I do not do that anymore, but, I need to get back into that habit again.
 

Uwek

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Dec 25, 2017
Messages
22,769
Points
1,038

Location
Vienna, Austria
Just keep in mind, that the bulkheads of the POB-part of the model were not existing at the real ships.
So butt joints and also later on tree-nails have to be every time over "real" frames (or minimum filling timbers)
 

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
After thinking about it, I decided to cut out the Cannon Port as I go. Probably not a good idea - but I do not like cutting them out blind - at least with them partially covered, I have a guide around the port. I will probably regret this.

planking-06.jpg
 

Kurt Konrath

Kurt Konrath
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
2,727
Points
538

Location
Oklahoma City OK
Looking like your making nice progress on the planking.

It's your ship so who is to say your doing it wrong, your just doing it different, time will tell if its better or worst way to do it.
 

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
Thank you all - too kind !

Well, before I move on to the next 6a, 6b, and so forth, I will do the other side of the ship. Now, it is very important to realize at this point that the REMAINDER of the planks is THICKER. So, it is a good idea to sand planks 2 - 5 as you DO NOT want to sand (2-5) and then sand (6 - ...) as you DO NOT want them to blend in at the same level.

I show a graphic of the different thicknesses of the boards and also a graphic from the manual for such.

planking-09.jpg

planking-12.jpg
 

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
The manual is now skipping to the installation of a stern part. In order to do this, it is necessary to go ahead and install the Stem Post - as really this offers a "guide" as to how to mount the stern piece.

stern-piece02.jpg

stern-piece03.jpg

stern-piece04.jpg

stern-piece05.jpg
 
Joined
May 8, 2021
Messages
1,898
Points
538

Location
Cape Town South Africa

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
Now I am gluing up the stern piece and using masking tape to keep things in order while it dries.

stern-piece06.jpg

Next, the manual now calls for the Planking Strips to continue. There are some tiny portholes (perhaps scuppers) that will be cut out and that depends on if you wish to go through the trouble to do this. I plan to cut mine out and perhaps all the way through the hull. I will see. I will use a mill to drill tiny hole and then file out the square.

planking-16.jpg
 

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
A continuation of the Planking sequence. Planks 6a and 6b and going forth are thicker than the first set. I DID NOT bevel the top edge as I wanted to make sure there is a defined edge between the two different thicknesses. It is easy to get carried away and so not sand too much and ruin the effect of the plank differences in thicknesses.

The purpose here is to show how I am cutting out the square openings (scuppers) and then filing them later.

planking-17.jpg

planking-18.jpg

planking-19.jpg

planking-20.jpg

planking-21.jpg


Demonstrating Sherline's Metric Mill with Sensitive Drilling Attachment (www.sherline.com)

 

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
I marked off the location of the two scuppers on the frame and decided to drill and square file them out. The inboard photo is horrible. The scuppers from the inboard might be covered up with the waterways - not sure how it is going to turn out - but I will see - if it is covered up by all the inboard waterways, deck planking, then I am not worried about it - as at least, the outside appearance is done.

This camera I am using - for some reason just does not take photos like it used to - the lens is clean - not sure, it is about 2 years old and was bought for the sole purpose of ship build logs. It is a Canon SX740HS about $399 USD

1653152961695.png




planking-22.jpg

planking-23.jpg
 

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
4,186
Points
688

Location
Madison, MS
So far:

The Hawse holes are VERY tricky to drill / file out - be careful as the angle is slightly downward and at a strange angle. Do not try to drill straight in as you will drill into the Plastic Bow Pieces.

The edge image shows the typical beveling of a plank.

planking-25.jpg



Typical Clamping - I cannot use the long nose clamps as they will not reach anymore. Back to my homemade clamps.


planking-24.jpg
 
Top