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Belle Poule 1780 by Donnie

I have a simple gauge made that will show me the height of the port BEFORE I glue it in the upper lid section. This height will allow for the SIDES to have just the correct amount of clearance granted if the rest of the ports are all identical.


gun-ports-08.jpg

gun-ports-09.jpg​
 
So, this wraps up (completes) the section on the Upper Hull Framing with Gun Ports installations.

EDIT:
After all the Gun Port Frames have been installed, I do notice one thing. I do think (now) that these openings represent the FINAL opening - but the Gun Port Frames will NOT FIT INSIDE - the ports will have to be widened to accept the Gun Frames. I am not sure why the openings HERE are not the CUT-OUTS that would "INCLUDE" the full dimension to INCLUDE the Gun window Frames too.
When I was installing the Gun Window frames, I noticed that I had to WIDEN these ports, THEN, as I started to construct the window frame, I had to CUT OUT 1mm from the top of the Gun Port openings so that the Gun window frames would fit as they come from the kit. Otherwise, you would have to sand down ALL the windows to fit and I did not think that was the case. So, now going forward, my windows or Gun ports are taller by 1mm.
Please take time to investigate when you build your model.

gun-ports-10.jpg


gun-ports-11.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Donnie!

P4030029.JPG
Original "Ancre"-plan 1:48 and a reduction 1:72 (66,6%). All openings match the dimensions of the kit drawing.

P4030030.JPG

P4030033.JPG
The window and gun openings frames are filled with boards (unfortunately the boards have to machined on all sides) and the windows are slightly reduced all around the outside.

P4030031.JPG
This way the windows fit into the fillings of 11,5 x 10,5 mm.

Fitting the gunport fillings takes a lot of time. Building this elegant frigate is somewhat challenging for the modeler, despite the prefabricated parts.

Best regards
Thomas
 
This way the windows fit into the fillings of 11,5 x 10,5 mm.
Click to expand...
I think my end results are fairly close enough, but I should have been more careful !!!


Note: it is a good idea to put together one port frame first and then see if the measurements are correct. However, in my defense, I want to say this: CAD Drawings for ships are in 2D and just can not take into consideration CURVES. So, when the drawing is transferred to the CNC machine, this is where things get off - BUT, I could be wrong - don't take my word for it - just be mindful of the parts.

Yes,
This means that I got a little ahead of myself. Again, not being careful - a little aggravated at me -- However, in going back to measure the ports, I am off by about .5 to .6 mm in height (port height a little too tall) while some are almost dead on as far as the height of the port. All of the widths are very good and right on. So, these images show one particular example. Whew - I guess not too bad for taking the kit pieces at face value and not measuring them. But again, who knows.

So, this means that according to the kit, all of the C and D parts should have had a little (about .5mm) removed from the heights. However, your experience might differ from mine. Overall, I am not going to worry much about .5mm

The Camera angle makes the gun port (top right image) looks warped. Not sure how that happened, but that camera shot is not good.

gun-ports-12.jpg
 
Hi Donnie!

So far I have seen only three finished models of "Belle Poule". Nobody measures all the dimensions in the photos and all models looked beautiful. Your build report gives many valuable hints and tips for future modelers and your results are outstanding. There will more problem areas and together we will overcome all problems. No model will be perfect - it doesn't have to be - we enjoy modeling and the beauty of the end result.

Greetings from a not 100 percent perfect modeler ROTF
- Thomas -
 
Greetings from a not 100 percent perfect modeler ROTF
Click to expand...

Thank you Thomas for that encouragement. --- I feel much better now - :)

However, (just a conversation) - it does seem like the Gun Port cut-out templates should be larger to accommodate the Gun Port linings. I remember that I used to read many many steps ahead on all my builds to be careful - I need to get back to that habit of studying the plans and being careful though.
 
NOTE: I STRONGLY RECOMMEND GLUING THE HALVES OF THE KEEL TOGETHER FIRST:

The two halves of the KEEL are eventually are to be glued together. However, the two halves have a BEVEL along the front, back, and bottom edges. My strong recommendation is to glue the two halves together BEFORE beveling. Reason: you will have a flat surface throughout the length of the keel. Then you can bevel the edges.
I DID NOT do it this way, but I beveled the edges before gluing. Therefore, the front and back and edges DO NOT have a flat surface !!!! It is nearly impossible to put weight along the length of the keel AND also be able to keep the halves glued on the beveled edges as you do not have flat support.

Therefore, I had to put many very strong clamps along the edges to keep the parts tight together. Do not make my mistake. Why didn't they just supply ONE keel I have no idea - what seems like a good engineering idea is NOT a good CONSTRUCTION IDEA !!!!
 
Donnie said:
NOTE: I STRONGLY RECOMMEND GLUING THE HALVES OF THE KEEL TOGETHER FIRST:

The two halves of the KEEL are eventually are to be glued together. However, the two halves have a BEVEL along the front, back, and bottom edges. My strong recommendation is to glue the two halves together BEFORE beveling. Reason: you will have a flat surface throughout the length of the keel. Then you can bevel the edges.
I DID NOT do it this way, but I beveled the edges before gluing. Therefore, the front and back and edges DO NOT have a flat surface !!!! It is nearly impossible to put weight along the length of the keel AND also be able to keep the halves glued on the beveled edges as you do not have flat support.

Therefore, I had to put many very strong clamps along the edges to keep the parts tight together. Do not make my mistake. Why didn't they just supply ONE keel I have no idea - what seems like a good engineering idea is NOT a good CONSTRUCTION IDEA !!!!
Click to expand...
Hallo Donnie,
did you make some photos of this "problem", so we can understand better your note?
 
Uwe, things happen so fast that unfortunately, I was not able to gather images for the group. The keel comes in two halves that must be glued together. It is best to glue them and then BEVEL the edges. Hince, the Bevel edges are not sitting FLAT on a surface and the glue in those areas will not COMPRESS.
 
It has been a while since I have done an update - and - I apologize for that, and also for not giving as many details too. I assume that since Zoltan is also building this model, you also have his BL to see as well. So, I am not sure if I have as much to offer.

At any rate, here is where I am - although, I can offer some details that I see as beneficial if you want to pursue it. This is a small detail, but to me, I found it beneficial and it has to do mainly with the Keel (and also other parts that are sandwiched together).

The image below shows a typical LASER cut, and as we all know, the LASER is going to produce an angle. That angle is not too much to worry about in some cases. However, the thicker the wood, the more problems that can be. Therefore, I assume that this is why the keel in made in a manner that must be sandwiched together (parts glued side by side).

Therefore, if you study the image below, you will see that I have THREE different ways those strips can be glued. The first #1 shows that there will be a positive bow (or hump) in the middle. Therefore, trying to file this FLAT can be a guesswork. Next, #2 shows that the pieces are that you have two edges that will have to be filed to make even. Then lastly is my favorite #3 which shows the BLUE dots have TWO reference points that are on the same plane - and actually, when these parts are NOT filed, you will have a trough that the glue can fill into. Therefore, there might be NO need to file as the EDGES are your FLAT reference points.

keel-gluing-example.jpg​

And now here are some pics of where I am with building the keel. To make sure the Keel fits from end to end. I shall STOP here and start to build the OTHER END. Then bring the two ends (bow part and stern part) together and see how they meet. If I have excess, then that can be eliminated. If I built the entire Keel, there is a possibility that I might have a GAP on one end. (the Gap just means that the entire keel of course is longer than the hull. Not enough, I can fill that in with a shim of wood.

keel-01.jpg

keel-02.jpg

keel-03.jpg
 
I do want to make mention that the above example (drawing) does not necessarily mean putting it into practice. It is only a visual element to be aware of.
 
I am complete with the Keel parts and as you can see I divided the parts so I can see if there is any tolerances. Upon placing the two sections, I am satisfied that I have material to remove to make a good connection. Not having enough material is more difficult and will not appear correct when complete.

keel-04.jpg



When the material is removed, these parts will come together.
The material will be removed from one section only to bring these two joints together.

keel-05.jpg

keel-06.jpg
 
Now, it is time to move onward to the next major phase of construction and that is the upper part of planking. To make 100% sure the first strip is laid down on the correct area (horizontal marked strip on frames), I referred to the manual to make sure. There is one 'hint' that gives the starting point of where 2a, 2b, and 2c planking strip will be located.


The manual shows the location and the strip is right below a NOTCH on the stern piece as seen in the attachment below.

planking-01.jpg


planking-02.jpg
 
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