Bluenose 1:64 by Model Shipways - Build log

Do I paint the hull or do I install the rails?

  • Hull

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Rails

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .
6/11 to 7/2
I’m back from Vallarta but it took almost a week for me to get my hands on my Bluenose… just too much stuff that needs my attention after being gone for over two months. I’m glad in many ways of being home, but I’ll be glad when it feels like home again.

First up is “what” exactly should I work on first? I decided to work on the chainplates followed by the eyelets.

Lots of written text (even for me) for what ended up a fairly small amount of work.

I liked the way Gary Brinker did them on his YouTube channel (BLUENOSE PART 19… Deadeyes & Chainplates) which is similar to what is shown in the instructions. Looks nice and the deadeyes are functional. The first one took about an hour (minus the three holes) and while I know I’d improve on the time and appearance, I wasn’t super impressed by my work. I also knew duplicating them (there are a total of 20) would be difficult and time consuming.

Then I built one like many builders do including the Suburban Ship Modeler. The first one took about 20 minutes (minus the three holes), and just like the other method I knew I’d improve upon the time and look, but I also felt in addition to looking better, they would be easier to duplicate.

The test came when I put both of these on the ship side by side. Bottom line the second method looked better. Plus I felt it would be easier to duplicate.
View attachment 457009
Building them is involved but fairly straightforward except for the drilling of the holes. More on that later.
  • Wrap wire around the deadeye
  • Twist the ends of the wire tightly together
  • Drill a hole about 1/4” from the end in the brass strip
  • Feed the twisted ends through the hole in the brass strip
  • Fold the end of the brass strip over upon itself trapping the twisted wire
  • Measure and cut the chainplate to the proper length
  • Cut the tip into a point
  • Drill three (or two for the smaller ones) holes in the strip on the opposite end as the deadeye
  • Secure the deadeye to the brass strip with a drop of superglue holding the twisted wire between the folds of the strip
I started building them out and I’m halfway done (8 large and 2 small) with the first part of the chainplates.

The second part is drilling the holes for mounting them to the hull - each needs either 2 or 3 holes. Drilling the holes was the most difficult part of the overall process not just because drilling with a pin vice was proving to be difficult, but more importantly, if the hole wasn’t right in the middle of the strip, the brass strip would break when I folded it over. I used a push pin as a center punch, but the drilling was still daunting. I even tried using my GOXAWEE Rotary Tool (a Dremel-like tool) but it was still difficult.
View attachment 457010 View attachment 457011 View attachment 457012
I’m sure it would have been easier if I had a pair of magnifying glasses and a drill press - neither of which I currently have. I believe my local club (Rocky Mountain Shipwrights) has a drill press that I can borrow so I will wait on drilling the attachment holes.

Saturday June 15th was the club meeting where I picked up the drill press. Hopefully it will make things easier.

There was a learning curve on using the drill press (after all, I’m still drilling into a 1/16” strip), but I was able to finish the 2nd half of the chainplates (other than the 3 holes) in about an hour.

I build a small jig to help with the 3 holes… and yes it’s just stiff cardboard taped to a board but it does the trick.
View attachment 457014
As long as I take it slowly, I am able to drill the holes in one chainplate. I really need to focus on taking my time. One poorly drilled hole and I have to completely rebuild the chainplate. Of the 20, I end up needing to rebuild 5. The biggest take away is that with such a small drill bit, it tends to be flexible. When it touches the brass strip, it can very easily bend slightly and move off center. To resolve this, I have to tightly hold the strip against the table which is a bit difficult as the strip gets hot plus I have to hold it very close to the desired location of the hole… right next to the drill’s chuck. I end us using some old tweezers that have a bent tip.

After all 20 are drilled, I add a drop of super glue to where the twisted wire of the deadeye is located in folded strip. This goes fairly smoothly although the glue fills a few of the holes in the deadeyes. I’m able to drill these out on all of them except for one which I have to rebuild.
View attachment 457013
I then paint the brass black.
View attachment 457015
Looking at the rails that they will go through before being attached to the hull, I notice that while I made the slits for the chainplates for the foremast, I did not do it for the mainmast. And these slits actually need to go through two rails. Ugh. Since it’s been a few months since cut the slits, I looked back at my log to see if I could remember doing (and not doing) them, but somehow I didn’t write anything about them. I’m assuming I did them after painting the hull but before varnishing it.

Putting the slits in isn’t too difficult using a very narrow knife blade, but because of the way I made the chainplates (folding the strip over the twisted wire), the slits need to be more than slits; they need to be wide enough to let the folded section slide into the rail, at least partially. I use a variety of tools to make these holes in the rails; a small drill bit in a pin vice, two different files, one circular and the other flat, and the very narrow knife.
View attachment 457020
And even though I force myself to make these holes slowly, I still break through the side of the rail in a few places. These I close up with glue and a clamp.
View attachment 457016 View attachment 457017 View attachment 457019View attachment 457018
While test fitting the chainplates in place, I break one off them causing me to have to rebuild it.

Attaching the chainplates is fairly straightforward as they are glued and nailed to the hull. For the nailing, I get to use a pair of pin insertion pliers that I bought a while back from Micro-Mark. I only had about 60 pins to insert, but these pliers were great. I whole-heartily endorse them.
View attachment 457021
As for the super glue, I haven’t use it very much, so it is still a learning experience. One thing I learned from last time was to invest in some long skinny tips for the glue. This seems to have helped a lot.
View attachment 457022
After all of the chainplates are attached, I touch up the paint (black, white, and yellow) followed by a touch up of the satin varnish.
View attachment 457023 View attachment 457024View attachment 457026
View attachment 457027
The nail heads need a little touch up, but overall I’m pleased with them.

If I had a mulligan, I would have slid a card behind the chainplates before I attached them and touched up the black paint at that point. Live and learn.

Work time: 15 hours
Total work time: 244 hours
Nicely done. This step was the one I lost the most sleep thinking about how to do it well.
 
Nicely done. This step was the one I lost the most sleep thinking about how to do it well.
After each step I have the sense of joy and accomplishment but it’s followed quickly by a sense of apprehension as I start thinking about the next step. I know it’s not next, but I’m already thinking about the deck furniture, especially the stuff at the bow. And don’t get me thinking about rigging
 
7/4 to 8/5
The Rocky Mountain Shipwrights workshop is on Saturday (7/6), and I thought I would use the time to catch up with friends and figure out what I would work on next. Even though I had planned to work on the eyelets next, I was not sure they would be the best fit for the workshop. After a bit of research, I decided to do prep work for the rudder.

At the workshop I sanded the rudder to taper it from front to back as well as top to bottom. I still need to shape and glue a dowel near the top, but I did not bring one so it will have to wait. Once I get home, I will attach a sanded 5/32” dowel to the top of the rudder after using my GOXAWEE to carve a small gouge into it and add a little filler. I will wrap it up by sanding everything smooth and then adding two coats of gray primer.
IMG_7742.jpg
It still needs to be painted red and a touch of black, but that can wait.

Next up are the pintles and gudgeons, and based on a number of build logs, including the Suburban Ship Modeler and GGibson over on MSW, I decided to glue the brass strips to a piece of wood and mark out where the holes will go on the pintles and gudgeons. The pictures in their build logs helped plot this out plus GGibson stated his measurements between the holes so I was able to draw it out on a board once I got home.

I am hopeful this method will go smoother than my drilling did for the chainplates. I was able to drill the holes in them, but I fought with it throughout the entire process.

If this method works better (low bar in my opinion), I will go back and edit my last post recommending drilling the chainplates in the same fashion.
So, about an hour prepping to board and glueing the six strips down, and then about an hour to drill the thirty holes - without an error. I definitely recommend this method for the pintles and gudgeons as well as any future chainplates.
IMG_7738.jpg IMG_7753.jpg IMG_7755.jpg
At this point, I have come to the realization that I am struggling to find time for building. I know they are excuses, but life is getting in the way. From some painful teeth/jaw issues (compounded by the fact that my dental insurance doesn’t kick in until August 1st), to our 100 pound Great Pyrenees getting sprayed by a skunk three days before a trip to North Carolina to visit family, to some major on-going renovations to our patio and deck (including preparing to add a 12x20 gazebo), compounded by some child custody and support issues for my daughter and her kids that have been in the court system since January of 2023 - yes over a year and a half and he hasn’t physically seen the kids or helped financially at all, not even a bag of diapers. Deadbeat in every sense of the word - and that comes from a single dad who raised two daughters with truly little assistance from their mom and even less that was not court enforced. And did I mention my wife has Parkinson’s and had Deep Brain Stimulation surgery recently?! I am not looking for sympathy, just stating some facts.

But with the bad comes the good… I’m getting closer to my dentist appointment and have done ok on a combination of OxyContin and klonipin, we were able to get rid of most of the skunk smell with a combination of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and dawn dish soap, the NC trip was great (other than the CrowdStrike issue that occurred right after takeoff while we were in the air), the patio and deck are coming together nicely, and we believe the courts are finally catching up with Mr Deadbeat (but in the meantime we’ve been able to spend a lot more time with the grandkids - I even started a wooden boat model with my grandson - more on that in a separate post), and my wife is doing great. It is just a lot of stuff that is not letting me focus on my Bluenose.

And then just as things started to move in the positive direction, COVID hit me with a vengeance. I am up to date with my boosters and have had it previously, but this was a bad bout of it for me. I was able to get on paxlovid and at least it made me feel a bit better, but it’s expensive ($200) and one of the side effects is that it leaves a really nasty taste in your mouth - a taste that does not go away until it’s almost time to take the next dose. I am feeling better, but it knocked me down for a solid 4 days and made me miss my dentist appointment as well as our club’s workshop on Saturday.

So finally, after a number of days lying in bed, today was the first day where I felt like doing anything other than napping. I.E. - It is Bluenose time.

With my scattered mind I decide to get things ready for the bowsprit. I cut it from a kit supplied 3/16 dowel. I drill the hole for the bowsprit at the tip of the bow and widen it until the dowel will fit through it.
IMG_8166.jpg
IMG_8107.jpg IMG_8109.jpg
It will need to be shaped, but right now I'm just getting the bowsprit and creating the hole.

I drilled out the Britannia mooring chocks, first with a 1/64” drill bit then followed with a 3/64” bit. I cleaned them up with some 400-grit sandpaper and then used a 1/16” bit to drill the hole for it in the rail then widened it with a small file.
IMG_8132.jpg
I will paint them yellow on the outside of the hull as they line up perfectly with the yellow line of the hull once they are installed.

I then marked and drilled the holes in the stanchions for the eyebolts and rings using a 0.5mm micro drill bit. I spent quite a bit of time trying to make sure I was going to put them on the correct stanchion, only to find out that while I am sure they were used on the actual ship, nothing connects to them on the model - so they are just for decoration.

I then added the rings to the eyebolts and cut about a third of the shaft of the eyebolts off.

A drop of CA glue on the shaft and slide it into the predrilled holes… but no, the 0.5mm holes were too small. And given the tiny diameter of the eyebolt shaft, if you try to push it in, it bends. Argh.

On a test piece of wood, I drill a 0.6mm hole (the next bigger size that I have) and check to see if an eyebolt will fit - and it does! So, I re-drilled the holes using the 0.6mm bit and started glueing in the eyebolts and rings. Most of them go in as expected, but four of them do not slide into the holes and the shaft bent. Instead of connecting four rings to four eyebolts to replace the bent ones, I decided to do them separately. I trim the shaft and glue the eyebolt into the hole and then attach the ring.

These four replacements are a pain as it is difficult to pinch the ring closed while the eyebolt is already attached, but at least there are only four of them.
Jumping back to the rudder, I paint the small shaft black.
IMG_8133.jpg
Once dried, I add two coats of clear satin finish. Now it is really time for the pintles and gudgeons, but I will cover that in my next write up.
IMG_8168.jpg

Grandson’s 1st model
A while back I picked up a youth kit of the "Bermuda" from Alice Sampson's (a Rocky Mountain Shipwright's club member) company Seaworthy Small Ships. Alice and her business partner Julius Spradley recently took the helm of the company and will continue the production of a wide range of wooden toy boat model kits. These high-quality kits allow new and younger modelers the ability to discover the joys of modeling plus their model can sail in about any body of water.
IMG_5178.jpg
Since my grandson is seven ½ (he will tell you that he is 8), I thought I would give it a go. He knows about my ship models and was excited to start his own build. After a quick rundown of the overall process, he started sanding... and sanding, and even more sanding. After he was a bit tired of hand sanding, I let him use my hand-held orbital sander.
IMG_7897.jpg
He enjoyed using a power tool "all by himself” and heard more than a few times that the tool we will use most often is our patience.

We then added the fin and talked about painting. He wanted a rainbow pattern but accepted my idea of a red hull with a black stripe. The rainbow would be on the "deck" and "sail". I then explained why we needed to first paint it with a primer.

And while he asked a couple of times "why is it grey?", he humored his grandfather, especially when I gave him the can of spray paint. I wish I would have taken some pictures, but my hands were full of a 7 1/2 year old holding a live can of spray paint...

We then let a few coats of primer dry.

On his next visit, we went after the red hull - which first meant taping it off. As with the primer being grey, he asked a few times about the green tape, but again humored me. I put the first piece of tape on, while he did the rest, although I helped keep it where we wanted it. I then let him loose with the brush-on acrylic red paint and he did a few coats.
IMG_7899.jpg IMG_7900.jpg
On his next visit, we removed the tape, and he was AMAZED at the results - saying they looked "like an artist had done them". I pointed out that "he" was the artist.

We then taped off for the black stripe and again I let him do a few coats.
IMG_8101.jpg IMG_8103.jpg
Unfortunately, that is where we stand as both of our lives have been busy plus I have had covid. Next up will be taping off the deck for the rainbow pattern.

Work time: 7.5 hours
Total work time: 251.5 hours
 
7/4 to 8/5
The Rocky Mountain Shipwrights workshop is on Saturday (7/6), and I thought I would use the time to catch up with friends and figure out what I would work on next. Even though I had planned to work on the eyelets next, I was not sure they would be the best fit for the workshop. After a bit of research, I decided to do prep work for the rudder.

At the workshop I sanded the rudder to taper it from front to back as well as top to bottom. I still need to shape and glue a dowel near the top, but I did not bring one so it will have to wait. Once I get home, I will attach a sanded 5/32” dowel to the top of the rudder after using my GOXAWEE to carve a small gouge into it and add a little filler. I will wrap it up by sanding everything smooth and then adding two coats of gray primer.
View attachment 464835
It still needs to be painted red and a touch of black, but that can wait.

Next up are the pintles and gudgeons, and based on a number of build logs, including the Suburban Ship Modeler and GGibson over on MSW, I decided to glue the brass strips to a piece of wood and mark out where the holes will go on the pintles and gudgeons. The pictures in their build logs helped plot this out plus GGibson stated his measurements between the holes so I was able to draw it out on a board once I got home.

I am hopeful this method will go smoother than my drilling did for the chainplates. I was able to drill the holes in them, but I fought with it throughout the entire process.

If this method works better (low bar in my opinion), I will go back and edit my last post recommending drilling the chainplates in the same fashion.
So, about an hour prepping to board and glueing the six strips down, and then about an hour to drill the thirty holes - without an error. I definitely recommend this method for the pintles and gudgeons as well as any future chainplates.
View attachment 464836 View attachment 464837 View attachment 464838
At this point, I have come to the realization that I am struggling to find time for building. I know they are excuses, but life is getting in the way. From some painful teeth/jaw issues (compounded by the fact that my dental insurance doesn’t kick in until August 1st), to our 100 pound Great Pyrenees getting sprayed by a skunk three days before a trip to North Carolina to visit family, to some major on-going renovations to our patio and deck (including preparing to add a 12x20 gazebo), compounded by some child custody and support issues for my daughter and her kids that have been in the court system since January of 2023 - yes over a year and a half and he hasn’t physically seen the kids or helped financially at all, not even a bag of diapers. Deadbeat in every sense of the word - and that comes from a single dad who raised two daughters with truly little assistance from their mom and even less that was not court enforced. And did I mention my wife has Parkinson’s and had Deep Brain Stimulation surgery recently?! I am not looking for sympathy, just stating some facts.

But with the bad comes the good… I’m getting closer to my dentist appointment and have done ok on a combination of OxyContin and klonipin, we were able to get rid of most of the skunk smell with a combination of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and dawn dish soap, the NC trip was great (other than the CrowdStrike issue that occurred right after takeoff while we were in the air), the patio and deck are coming together nicely, and we believe the courts are finally catching up with Mr Deadbeat (but in the meantime we’ve been able to spend a lot more time with the grandkids - I even started a wooden boat model with my grandson - more on that in a separate post), and my wife is doing great. It is just a lot of stuff that is not letting me focus on my Bluenose.

And then just as things started to move in the positive direction, COVID hit me with a vengeance. I am up to date with my boosters and have had it previously, but this was a bad bout of it for me. I was able to get on paxlovid and at least it made me feel a bit better, but it’s expensive ($200) and one of the side effects is that it leaves a really nasty taste in your mouth - a taste that does not go away until it’s almost time to take the next dose. I am feeling better, but it knocked me down for a solid 4 days and made me miss my dentist appointment as well as our club’s workshop on Saturday.

So finally, after a number of days lying in bed, today was the first day where I felt like doing anything other than napping. I.E. - It is Bluenose time.

With my scattered mind I decide to get things ready for the bowsprit. I cut it from a kit supplied 3/16 dowel. I drill the hole for the bowsprit at the tip of the bow and widen it until the dowel will fit through it.
View attachment 464847
View attachment 464848 View attachment 464850
It will need to be shaped, but right now I'm just getting the bowsprit and creating the hole.

I drilled out the Britannia mooring chocks, first with a 1/64” drill bit then followed with a 3/64” bit. I cleaned them up with some 400-grit sandpaper and then used a 1/16” bit to drill the hole for it in the rail then widened it with a small file.
View attachment 464839
I will paint them yellow on the outside of the hull as they line up perfectly with the yellow line of the hull once they are installed.

I then marked and drilled the holes in the stanchions for the eyebolts and rings using a 0.5mm micro drill bit. I spent quite a bit of time trying to make sure I was going to put them on the correct stanchion, only to find out that while I am sure they were used on the actual ship, nothing connects to them on the model - so they are just for decoration.

I then added the rings to the eyebolts and cut about a third of the shaft of the eyebolts off.

A drop of CA glue on the shaft and slide it into the predrilled holes… but no, the 0.5mm holes were too small. And given the tiny diameter of the eyebolt shaft, if you try to push it in, it bends. Argh.

On a test piece of wood, I drill a 0.6mm hole (the next bigger size that I have) and check to see if an eyebolt will fit - and it does! So, I re-drilled the holes using the 0.6mm bit and started glueing in the eyebolts and rings. Most of them go in as expected, but four of them do not slide into the holes and the shaft bent. Instead of connecting four rings to four eyebolts to replace the bent ones, I decided to do them separately. I trim the shaft and glue the eyebolt into the hole and then attach the ring.

These four replacements are a pain as it is difficult to pinch the ring closed while the eyebolt is already attached, but at least there are only four of them.
Jumping back to the rudder, I paint the small shaft black.
View attachment 464840
Once dried, I add two coats of clear satin finish. Now it is really time for the pintles and gudgeons, but I will cover that in my next write up.
View attachment 464858

Grandson’s 1st model
A while back I picked up a youth kit of the "Bermuda" from Alice Sampson's (a Rocky Mountain Shipwright's club member) company Seaworthy Small Ships. Alice and her business partner Julius Spradley recently took the helm of the company and will continue the production of a wide range of wooden toy boat model kits. These high-quality kits allow new and younger modelers the ability to discover the joys of modeling plus their model can sail in about any body of water.
View attachment 464852
Since my grandson is seven ½ (he will tell you that he is 8), I thought I would give it a go. He knows about my ship models and was excited to start his own build. After a quick rundown of the overall process, he started sanding... and sanding, and even more sanding. After he was a bit tired of hand sanding, I let him use my hand-held orbital sander.
View attachment 464853
He enjoyed using a power tool "all by himself” and heard more than a few times that the tool we will use most often is our patience.

We then added the fin and talked about painting. He wanted a rainbow pattern but accepted my idea of a red hull with a black stripe. The rainbow would be on the "deck" and "sail". I then explained why we needed to first paint it with a primer.

And while he asked a couple of times "why is it grey?", he humored his grandfather, especially when I gave him the can of spray paint. I wish I would have taken some pictures, but my hands were full of a 7 1/2 year old holding a live can of spray paint...

We then let a few coats of primer dry.

On his next visit, we went after the red hull - which first meant taping it off. As with the primer being grey, he asked a few times about the green tape, but again humored me. I put the first piece of tape on, while he did the rest, although I helped keep it where we wanted it. I then let him loose with the brush-on acrylic red paint and he did a few coats.
View attachment 464854 View attachment 464855
On his next visit, we removed the tape, and he was AMAZED at the results - saying they looked "like an artist had done them". I pointed out that "he" was the artist.

We then taped off for the black stripe and again I let him do a few coats.
View attachment 464856 View attachment 464857
Unfortunately, that is where we stand as both of our lives have been busy plus I have had covid. Next up will be taping off the deck for the rainbow pattern.

Work time: 7.5 hours
Total work time: 251.5 hours
Looks like a lot of fun building with your grandson.

My building has been slow this summer as well. Too much work amongst other things.
 
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