Cazador Xebec - OcCre 1:60 [COMPLETED BUILD]

paulv1958 said:
Hi the gun carriages are a cast brown metal ( I painted them a matt brown), but the rest is pewter on mine as well I believe, as are the carvings. The blocks on the cannons are 2mm ones I had lying around. The rope for the carriages is ca glued on the edges or then to make it look like it passes through a ring. They are eyelet looped on the gunwhales. At this scale, I cold not get blocks smaller. I also made twice as many oars so I could have them out the side like a gallley.
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I’m thinking of making the doors for the oar ports open. Problem is I’m not sure if they opened to the top or to the side?
 
Worked on the upper deck that extends beyond the transom. It was a pain with all the grating that had to be cut at an angle on both sides. I planked the rear bulkhead, although they don’t tell you too, I think it looks better. I also added a veneer board at the edges to make it look cleaner. Can’t believe how much time it took for all of this.
I just need to put the half rails on that area.
I also put the railings on the upper deck, so had to put frames in the inner bulwarks first.
And I also built the deck grating for the upper deck.
So more was done than it looks like at first glance...
 
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Ye gods .... I know exactly how much time those frames for the inner bulwarks take. I just finished the starboard side on the Haarlem. Great and clean work, as usual.
 
I can confirm the information given already by @Charles QC
In principle port-lids for oars were opened to the side

INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION OF MODEL SHIPBUILDING - Rochefort, France - 18.th-21.st October 2018

Where are all the YOUNG model builders? We don’t see very many of them at US model shows either.
shipsofscale.com

INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION OF MODEL SHIPBUILDING - Rochefort, France - 18.th-21.st October 2018

Where are all the YOUNG model builders? We don’t see very many of them at US model shows either.
shipsofscale.com

Planset review - LE REQUIN - Xebec - 1750" - scale 1:48 - by Jean Boudriot & Hubert Berti

Planset Review: LE REQUIN - Xebec - 1750" - scale 1:48 by Jean Boudriot & Hubert Berti translation into english by David H. Roberts booklet available in french, english or italian language available at ancre: https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/18-monographie-du-requin-chebec-1750-.html...
shipsofscale.com
 
Charles QC said:
I think that they were open to the side look at that picture of the Requin

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Here a link where you will some nice picture
https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/18-monographie-du-requin-chebec-1750-.html
what is your intention for the gun as OcCre are not usually very accurate for them
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Thank you! I wanted to keep the doors open for the oars. On this kit the cannon doors are on both sides. So you have two doors. With those open, I’m not sure I have room to open the door for the oars too? Will see if they fit.
 
I have now relooked at the picture and I do see what you mean - BUT, honestly, if you had not pointed that out, I would never have noticed it. The human eye tends to find a focal point for itself, usually in the centre of an object and then creates a picture around that. So, unless you are specifically looking for minute squareness or alignment lines, the focus will be on how the entire piece looks. And that I can assure you - is top notch!
 
I don't like Titebond. I have tried it, diidn't like it and discarded it. I now use Chinese PVA which dries crystal clear but which is obviously not available in the USA - so Daniel's suggestion is certainly worth trying.
 
Heinrich said:
I have now relooked at the picture and I do see what you mean - BUT, honestly, if you had not pointed that out, I would never have noticed it. The human eye tends to find a focal point for itself, usually in the centre of an object and then creates a picture around that. So, unless you are specifically looking for minute squareness or alignment lines, the focus will be on how the entire piece looks. And that I can assure you - is top notch!
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There is another additional aspect that I learned in college in a class in perspective psychology (I think) regarding Gestalt psychology wherein our eye and mind unconsciously enters a scene/picture/painting/sculpture or anything else from the lower left corner and moves diagonally upwards and to the right. In looking at many different paintings and photos I have notice the same type of "framing" the view and visual scan. It becomes related to how we present and see a presentation of things as "best" or more natural to the viewer. Perhaps the same thing applies to how we view our builds and particular portions of them. Photos can also distort things in perspective and lens factors so that something overlooked until we look for it. Happily most of our builds' viewers are only observers and not forensic critics. Just some thoughts. Rich
 
Gorila wood glue also dries cristal clear. I used to built the full Marmara boat.

Mike Shanks suggested me to use WeldBond (also dries cristal clear) because it can be dissolved with rubbish alcohol. I am using it now on the Pegasus with excellent results too.

Cheers
Daniel
 
It's funny how a phot0 can show you things you do not want to see. A razor blade will scrape away the glue. I only use heavy duty( brown) PVA ( gorilla glue) when I want a secure bond with the wood that dries quick and is normally hidden. Otherwise its interior std pva. and damp cloth/ ear bud to wipe it away.
Be warned that the oars are tight fit, and to get them to hang downwards must be sanded slightly thinner at the point of connection I inserted from the outside to the point i wanted, marked then thinned a small area around the the oar at that point. They then hung at the right angle as if water dipped and the area is hidden by the whales. I purchased some separate 3mm dowel and cut those oars from than. The originals I bundled on deck as shown in the kit. In this way I could display with oars in or out. BTW make they are removable as the whale rail rigging will be impossible to tie to the side rails afterwards. ( its hard enough as it is.)

Oh use the provided gating sparingly, as a lot is used at the bow and its just enough if planned & cut carefully ( recommend you also give it a brush of diluted PVA prior to cutting to shape)
 
Thanks to everyone for all the good advice and suggestions. I will probably get some Weldbond glue and be careful and continue to wipe off excess until then. I did scrape excess glue off with an xacto blade that was present in picture.

On the oars, I want to keep them stored on the upper deck as per instructions, but like the look without the doors. So I thought about just having the doors open. But that may look funny with no oars in them? Decisions...
 
Starting on the bow sprit next...trying to get back to the normal order on steps per instructions, as I’ve been skipping around...lol.
Anyway, the supports require a little bit of thinking ahead.
First I had to get the right distance down and used clips below for that (see first pic).
Then I had the keep it perpendicular to the keel, used board and clips from top (see second pic)
Then I had to slide it back until it hit the bow, then scribe a line in pencil to get that curve exact. Then cut that curve and file it at the right angle, as that piece angles up from the bow. Like fairing a bulkhead prior to planking. If the curve on the bow and the angle on the curve is done correctly, you should have a tight fit at the bow. (See pic 3)
Now for the other side. And there are pieces below and on top...but that’s coming up next.
 
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