Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Working your way up slowly but surely!
The ladders were then installed between the berthing and orlop decks. Edited note: If I were to do it over again I would not install the ladders at this point. I would wait until after the bilge pump pipes were installed, as the ladders get in the way when installing the pipes.
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The gun deck framing was then curved and painted white on its underside, as was done for the berthing deck framing. Lines were then scribed on the gun deck framing to show where the knee braces for the berthing deck walls would be placed.
The berthing deck walls were then test fitted onto the birthing deck frame and the waterways. To get them to fit into place, the notches where the berthing deck walls fit into the frames had to be made about 1/16 of an inch deeper. I used a small file to do this.
With the gun deck framing and the berthing deck side walls temporarily put into place, I marked the areas on the berthing deck walls where the standing knee braces would be put.
The berthing deck walls were then test fitted onto the birthing deck frame and the waterways. To get them to fit into place, the notches where the berthing deck walls fit into the frames had to be made about 1/16 of an inch deeper. I used a small file to do this.
With the gun deck framing and the berthing deck side walls temporarily put into place, I marked the areas on the berthing deck walls where the standing knee braces would be put.
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The knees were cut out from their boards. When test fitting the knees, you have to be careful that there are two types of the standard knee. One with a notch to fit where the frames are and ones without the notch that go between the walls and the gun deck frames.
The instruction would now have you install the braces and the sidewalls. I deviated from these instructions to install the bilge pump pipes first. This will give me more room to install the pipes. As I noted above, if I were to do it over again I would wait until I have the pipes installed before I put in the ladders between the berthing and orlop deck.
These pipes are very soft and required quite a bit of reshaping to fit down to the gravel in the hold.
The upper portions of these pipes shown here will have to be cut a little below the collars on the deck for the pumps themselves to be installed at the proper height.
Using a file I removed the flash on the bilge pump bodies, washed them in some soapy water as recommended, then used alcohol before priming them with enamel primer.
These pipes are very soft and required quite a bit of reshaping to fit down to the gravel in the hold.
The upper portions of these pipes shown here will have to be cut a little below the collars on the deck for the pumps themselves to be installed at the proper height.
Using a file I removed the flash on the bilge pump bodies, washed them in some soapy water as recommended, then used alcohol before priming them with enamel primer.
I fitted the knee braces. Each of the notched ones that fit under the frames had to be shaped a bit to fit well against the waterways. Each one was a bit different so I labeled them on a surface that will be glues before I painted them. After a coating of sanding sealer I gave them 2 coats of white acrylic paint.
The primed bilge pumps and pipes were painted with copper and black enamels.
The metal flanges that fit on the bottom of the bilge pumps I "painted" black using a sharpie pen.
The primed bilge pumps and pipes were painted with copper and black enamels.
The metal flanges that fit on the bottom of the bilge pumps I "painted" black using a sharpie pen.
I next fitted the bilge pump pipes through the decks. I am very glad that the sidewalls of the berthing deck along with the knees were not yet installed. It gave me a lot more space to work. I test fitted the pieces one at a time. When I was satisfied with the position of the pipe, I lifted it a fraction of an inch and cut it with a diagonal cutter. I then pushed it back in so it was just a fraction below the lip of the flange.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Glad your doing this build before I think about starting mine later down the road.
Now I will have a good reference for my work.
Now I will have a good reference for my work.
Just to let you know, there will be a hiatus on this building log for about a month. I will be away on vacation.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
I thought a vacation meant you had more time away from work to spend on shipyard work! 
Unfortunately, I will be somewhere where my model will not be. However I will be setting up a workspace there for future adventure!
Back a bit early from vacation, I attached one berthing deck wall to the frame to start with the braces. I am puting up one wall at a time to have more space to work.
The knee braces and standing braces which I had pre-fitted, went into place easily.
Of course, no good deed goes unpunished. While I was tilting the frame to get a picture of the braces, the ship fell over and hit a corner of my sander. Two pieced of the bow frame snapped off. I had to glue them back on.
there were some minor gaps where I put in the standing knees. I used a little Elmers wood filler to fill in the gaps. These areas will be painted again later.
To make putting in the floating knees easier, I tilted the frame a bit on a foam bed.
Using a tweezers, I placed the floating knees where the marking were using wood glue.
the diagonal knees went in next. Each one was shortened as necessary and I also beveled one side when they would rest against the standing or floating knee.
The space was a bit tight but putting in the knees presented little difficulty.
Using a tweezers, I placed the floating knees where the marking were using wood glue.
the diagonal knees went in next. Each one was shortened as necessary and I also beveled one side when they would rest against the standing or floating knee.
The space was a bit tight but putting in the knees presented little difficulty.
I next did the port side wall and braces for the berthing deck. This went considerably easier. I figure by the time I do 10 or so of these cross sections, Ill get the hang of it! 
I next glued the hatchway into place. I decided to remove one of the grates but leave the other so you could see the ladders and the grating.
EDITED NOTE: In retrospect, I think I would not install this hatchway in place until the pump bodies were positioned in place from the gun deck above it. The presents of the hatchway makes positioning the pump body into it's correct hole much more difficult.
I also test fitted the gun deck framing to make sure the mast lined up correctly. The framing almost popped into place, which made me happy, a sign that things are hopefully aligned.
I next glued the hatchway into place. I decided to remove one of the grates but leave the other so you could see the ladders and the grating.
EDITED NOTE: In retrospect, I think I would not install this hatchway in place until the pump bodies were positioned in place from the gun deck above it. The presents of the hatchway makes positioning the pump body into it's correct hole much more difficult.
I also test fitted the gun deck framing to make sure the mast lined up correctly. The framing almost popped into place, which made me happy, a sign that things are hopefully aligned.
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Good morning Rob. Great detail - nice! Cheers GrantI next did the port side wall and braces for the berthing deck. This went considerably easier. I figure by the time I do 10 or so of these cross sections, Ill get the hang of it!
View attachment 503181
I next glued the hatchway into place. I decided to remove one of the grates but leave the other so you could see the ladders and the grating.
View attachment 503182
I also test fitted the gun deck framing to make sure the mast lined up correctly. The framing almost popped into place, which made me happy, a sign that things are hopefully aligned.
View attachment 503183
Thank you Grant for the kind comment!
Next, going from the inside out, I installed the 8 Stanchions I previously carved and stained. Each required a bit of sanding and fit tightly between the deck and the frame of the ceiling.
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