The ladders were then installed between the berthing and orlop decks. Edited note: If I were to do it over again I would not install the ladders at this point. I would wait until after the bilge pump pipes were installed, as the ladders get in the way when installing the pipes.
The gun deck framing was then curved and painted white on its underside, as was done for the berthing deck framing. Lines were then scribed on the gun deck framing to show where the knee braces for the berthing deck walls would be placed.
The berthing deck walls were then test fitted onto the birthing deck frame and the waterways. To get them to fit into place, the notches where the berthing deck walls fit into the frames had to be made about 1/16 of an inch deeper. I used a small file to do this.
With the gun deck framing and the berthing deck side walls temporarily put into place, I marked the areas on the berthing deck walls where the standing knee braces would be put.
The knees were cut out from their boards. When test fitting the knees, you have to be careful that there are two types of the standard knee. One with a notch to fit where the frames are and ones without the notch that go between the walls and the gun deck frames.
The instruction would now have you install the braces and the sidewalls. I deviated from these instructions to install the bilge pump pipes first. This will give me more room to install the pipes. As I noted above, if I were to do it over again I would wait until I have the pipes installed before I put in the ladders between the berthing and orlop deck.
These pipes are very soft and required quite a bit of reshaping to fit down to the gravel in the hold.
The upper portions of these pipes shown here will have to be cut a little below the collars on the deck for the pumps themselves to be installed at the proper height.
Using a file I removed the flash on the bilge pump bodies, washed them in some soapy water as recommended, then used alcohol before priming them with enamel primer.