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like the cow hitch.
Before the spar deck becomes too filled with lines I decided to glue the ships bell in place.
I then glued the Topgallant yard into place. As with the other yards I drilled a hole in the yard and mast and inserted a pin to help hold the two together.
As you can see, the royal yard helped to hold the halyard and lift lines out of the way!
I then glued the Topgallant yard into place. As with the other yards I drilled a hole in the yard and mast and inserted a pin to help hold the two together.
As you can see, the royal yard helped to hold the halyard and lift lines out of the way!
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A few observations I have from working on the lines and blocks.
1) I am very very glad I decided not to put the hammock nets on the ship until later. I defiantly would have damaged them while I am tying lines on to the belaying pins. The same goes for the rail guard for the fighting top.
2) It really pays to do as much work on the masts and yards as you can do when they are off the ship.
3 ) It helps to make sure the holes in the blocks are reamed out and will accept the size line you want to use before you put them on the mast or yard. I find I can enlarge the holes of the wooden made blocks much easier than the 3D printed ones. The 3D printed ones are really nice looking but brittle.
4) Making the ends of the line sharp with a diagonal cut and stiffening the ends by smearing a bit of CA on them will ease the ability of threading the lines through the block considerably.
5) Try to make sure you thread the line through the proper hole in the block. As pointed out to me in a private message, BigJake noticed that I has threaded some of the lines in the incorrect or bottom hole of the block sheave. Below is a picture of my topgallant yard. The block on the left has the line rove through the bottom or incorrect hole. In real life a line would not go there. The right hand block has the line reeved the proper way.
1) I am very very glad I decided not to put the hammock nets on the ship until later. I defiantly would have damaged them while I am tying lines on to the belaying pins. The same goes for the rail guard for the fighting top.
2) It really pays to do as much work on the masts and yards as you can do when they are off the ship.
3 ) It helps to make sure the holes in the blocks are reamed out and will accept the size line you want to use before you put them on the mast or yard. I find I can enlarge the holes of the wooden made blocks much easier than the 3D printed ones. The 3D printed ones are really nice looking but brittle.
4) Making the ends of the line sharp with a diagonal cut and stiffening the ends by smearing a bit of CA on them will ease the ability of threading the lines through the block considerably.
5) Try to make sure you thread the line through the proper hole in the block. As pointed out to me in a private message, BigJake noticed that I has threaded some of the lines in the incorrect or bottom hole of the block sheave. Below is a picture of my topgallant yard. The block on the left has the line rove through the bottom or incorrect hole. In real life a line would not go there. The right hand block has the line reeved the proper way.
The actual reeving of the lines for the Topgallant went well. I think the most important thing is to take it slowly and make sure you know where every line is going. For instance "does this line go in front of this crosstrees or behind? Does it go to the forward part of the fighting top space or the rear part. How would I his line reeve through this block in reality" Most of these line come in pairs port and starboard and if you look at the layout of each section individually you can see the logic of the arrangement.
For the topgallant studding sail boom there is a pair of halyards left and right that run from their blocks on the yard, down just outside the forward topsail crosstrees, through the front of the spaces on either side of the fighting top, ahead of the futtock shrouds, and down to the fife rail. The belaying pin diagram on the plans show where each line ends up.
The topgallant lift lines run again port and starboard, from their blocks on either side of the mast, to the block on the yard and back to the mast block. They then go down and behind the topsail crosstrees, through the aft end of the open spaces in the fighting top and inside the royal lifts, and on down to the aft side of the fife rail and are belayed to the pins just outside where the royal lifts were belayed.
Finally the single topgallant yard halyard runs from the block on the mast to the block on the sling and then back to the mast block. It then goes down parallel to the royal yard halyard to its jig tackle next to the royal yard jig tackle.
For the topgallant studding sail boom there is a pair of halyards left and right that run from their blocks on the yard, down just outside the forward topsail crosstrees, through the front of the spaces on either side of the fighting top, ahead of the futtock shrouds, and down to the fife rail. The belaying pin diagram on the plans show where each line ends up.
The topgallant lift lines run again port and starboard, from their blocks on either side of the mast, to the block on the yard and back to the mast block. They then go down and behind the topsail crosstrees, through the aft end of the open spaces in the fighting top and inside the royal lifts, and on down to the aft side of the fife rail and are belayed to the pins just outside where the royal lifts were belayed.
Finally the single topgallant yard halyard runs from the block on the mast to the block on the sling and then back to the mast block. It then goes down parallel to the royal yard halyard to its jig tackle next to the royal yard jig tackle.