DocBlake's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build - 1/32 Scale - [COMPLETED BUILD]
Thanks, guys! Here are some photos of the model on the stand. Making the support was really not too hard, but took a little time. The trick was sticking to standard angles (45, 60 and 15 degrees) so that all cuts are identical and reproducible.
I have to revise my last comment - It fits well and the stand is looking very good with the section - Well Done my friend
Thanks, guys.
I started working on the the waist rails. I opted to make them out of swiss pear and dye them black. I used TransFast water soluble wood dye, available at Rockler woodworking supply store. I made the concentration twice as strong as the standard. One ounce of dye will give 2 quarts when dissolved in water, or 1 quart when doubled like I did. One ounce runs about $13, so the final cost is comparable to other preprepared dyes and stains. The great thing about the water based stain is that you can glue the stained wood! I did tests with PVA, epoxy, WeldBond and CA and they all performed as well as they would on undyed wood. I did pre-raise the grain on the swiss pear parts with water before dying, but with hardwoods at this scale, very little grain raising occurs with the water based dye. Be careful with bass wood, though!!
The waist rail leans inboard (tumblehome) at 15 degrees, so I ripped the waist rails and planksheer rails at 15 degrees. I then dyed a 1/4" piece of stock black and cut it off at identical lengths (also at 15 degrees) to make the planksheer rail supports. The fenders were cut out, shaped and dyed.
To fit the waistrail, I used double sided tape on the top bulwark surface and placed the rail in position. I drilled small holes to pin the rail to the bulwarks at places where the planksheer rail supports go so the holes wouldn't be visible on the finished model. I then marked the overall length of the rail on the underside and cut it to length, also cutting out the parts that spanned the gunports. The photo shows the fitted waist rail pinned temporarily in place. The cut ends need some dye before final placement. Next is to glue the waistrail in place and fit the supports for the planksheer rail.
I started working on the the waist rails. I opted to make them out of swiss pear and dye them black. I used TransFast water soluble wood dye, available at Rockler woodworking supply store. I made the concentration twice as strong as the standard. One ounce of dye will give 2 quarts when dissolved in water, or 1 quart when doubled like I did. One ounce runs about $13, so the final cost is comparable to other preprepared dyes and stains. The great thing about the water based stain is that you can glue the stained wood! I did tests with PVA, epoxy, WeldBond and CA and they all performed as well as they would on undyed wood. I did pre-raise the grain on the swiss pear parts with water before dying, but with hardwoods at this scale, very little grain raising occurs with the water based dye. Be careful with bass wood, though!!
The waist rail leans inboard (tumblehome) at 15 degrees, so I ripped the waist rails and planksheer rails at 15 degrees. I then dyed a 1/4" piece of stock black and cut it off at identical lengths (also at 15 degrees) to make the planksheer rail supports. The fenders were cut out, shaped and dyed.
To fit the waistrail, I used double sided tape on the top bulwark surface and placed the rail in position. I drilled small holes to pin the rail to the bulwarks at places where the planksheer rail supports go so the holes wouldn't be visible on the finished model. I then marked the overall length of the rail on the underside and cut it to length, also cutting out the parts that spanned the gunports. The photo shows the fitted waist rail pinned temporarily in place. The cut ends need some dye before final placement. Next is to glue the waistrail in place and fit the supports for the planksheer rail.
Waist rails dyed and installed. No poly yet!
Great looking model Dave.
Beautiful color contrast. Neat and super-clean workmanship, as always, perhaps! 
Beautiful model Dave.
Thanks, guys!
I spent the last couple of days prepping and installing the sheer rail with it's supports. Again, made of pear, stained black. I don't have a mill, so to make assembly easier and more sturdy, I beefed up the sheer rail supports a bit compared to Mike's plans. This is OK, because the supports aren't even shown on the NMM plans or some contemporary models, but are on others. In any case, I think the rails turned out OK. The gun ports are a little taller than they would be a little further forward on the ship. This is due to the rising rails moving aft, and is shown on the plans.
There is a little groove plowed into the waist rail as a decorative trim (see arrow)
. I'm considering painting this. Gold, or blue perhaps. Any thoughts?
There is a little groove plowed into the waist rail as a decorative trim (see arrow)
. I'm considering painting this. Gold, or blue perhaps. Any thoughts?
I know! Heresy, right! Maybe a couple of strips of contrasting wood: Holly, yellowheart or even boxwood.
I'm thinking a dark blue would look cool, and would be a nice touch
Hi DOC, I AGREE WITH DON R. Don