Hello Kramer,
Your work is coming along very nice.
Bill
Your work is coming along very nice.
Bill
2 more wedges on the port side and I'm finished with the first layer of planking. Then on to sanding and a sawdust blizzard to smooth out the hull. Along with some wood putty and I'll have the hull ready for the 2nd plank. I've been saving sawdust in a tin. Any thoughts on mixing sawdust with some wood glue to fill in any gaps vs. using wood putty?
And I'm not sure what happened here. This is the lower part of the bow along the false keel. There's a significant gap between the false keel and a few of the planks. Maybe my clamps weren't tight enough or I didn't form the planks enough. Not sure how I'm going to fix this. Any suggestions?
Good morning. Nice job. Sanding the first layer certainly creates a sawdust blizzard. I did not spend enough time sanding and filling my first layer which made the second planking a little more difficult. I would use wood filler or putty on the first layer as it is easier to work with and you don’t see this. It is also easier to shape to get the hull symmetry just right.
For the second planking layer definitely go with the saw dust and wood glue mix as this will match the colour of the planking perfectly.
Remember the first layer is a different wood to the second on most models - so use the same saw dust mix as the planks.
Cheers Grant
Good morning. My rookie experience- check that the planks are strong enough so they won’t lift later. I would use filler in the gaps. That looks like a fairly hard wood? Sapele or birch ? It also looks thick 2mm? I think you could sand this into shape- may take a while
. Cheers Grant
Sawdust and glue as a putty work well. If you are going to paint the hull (black most likely for the Endurance) it is not necessary as you would be painting over it. A normal wood putty will work well if painting.
Last edited:
Hey Grant, yes, 2mm thick, and its Lime. I guess I'll sand it down as best I can and use filler if there are any gaps before laying the second layer of planks. Thanks for the help!Good morning. My rookie experience- check that the planks are strong enough so they won’t lift later. I would use filler in the gaps. That looks like a fairly hard wood? Sapele or birch ? It also looks thick 2mm? I think you could sand this into shape- may take a while
Good morning. In the photo is looks like a harder wood than lime. Lime is good (easier to work with) and I believe you will be able to shape this good. Enjoy. Cheers Grant
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2022
- Messages
- 6
- Points
- 13
What sort of filler do you recommend? Endurance is my first model and I have just started planking.
Hey Lubber! I have this I bought on Amazon. I only used a little on my last hull. It's pretty thick. I just finished the first planking on my Endurance and am going to try and get to sanding and filling today. After I sand, I might try thinning the putty with a little water so it's not so thick to fill in any depressions. If I get to it today I'll let you know how it goes. I've also seen a few posts about using PVA mixed with sawdust as a filler. Makes sense, but you have to think ahead and save your sawdust.
Varathane 215202 Wood Filler, 3.5 oz, Natural
I tried this filler today and didn't have to thin it out. It worked fine. A bit thick but once I applied it and wiped it with a damp paper towel it smoothed out nicely. One more light sanding tomorrow and the hull is ready for the second planking.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2022
- Messages
- 6
- Points
- 13
Lovely finish - you've done well there. Thanks for the information.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2022
- Messages
- 6
- Points
- 13
Another question if possible... what were the best pliers for removing the pins?
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2022
- Messages
- 6
- Points
- 13
Another question if possible... what were the best pliers for removing the pins
If I don't sink the tack in too far (which I try not to) then I just use needle nose pliers. But if I have to sink the tack in to get the plank to lay right I use these to pry them out. Works great! Leaves a little divet but not much.
And I thought I'd throw this in as an example of another tool that works great. These pin insertion pliers work much better than regular pin pushers. I have much better control as I sink the tack. Got both on Amazon, but you might have to go to Micro-Mark https://www.micromark.com/. Acquiring tools and building out your workspace has been half the fun, or at least that's what is nerding me out about this hobby
.
My first attempt at blueing...not too successful. I'm not sure what I was expecting it to look like, but this is very uneven. I want my Endurance to look quite weathered like in its last days, so I thought I'd try dulling the brass. Luckily I have another set of the brass from OcCre. Any thoughts on what I did wrong or if it's salvageable?
Hello Kramer,
I think the Perma Blue is a blueing agent that only works on ferrous metals like steel. It will not bond to non-ferrous metals like brass or copper. You might want to look into Brass Back by the same company as the Perma Blue. I have never used these products yet, but that's what I understand. Brass Black is what I plan on using on my Endurance.
Bill
I think the Perma Blue is a blueing agent that only works on ferrous metals like steel. It will not bond to non-ferrous metals like brass or copper. You might want to look into Brass Back by the same company as the Perma Blue. I have never used these products yet, but that's what I understand. Brass Black is what I plan on using on my Endurance.
Bill
Makes perfect sense, Bill. That's why it's not sticking and is blotchy. Ordering Brass Black now. Thanks for the tip.
This is the last post I'll have for a while on the Endurance. I decided to work on Pavel Nikitin's Capt. John Smith's Shallop. Please check it out at https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/capt-john-smiths-shallop-by-pavel-nikitin-1-32.11134/. I look forward to exploring this ship and learning lots of new techniques.