Wow, you've got a great build in progress. I'm delighted to follow along.
Jan
Jan
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Thanks for joining! I’ve seen the quality of work put out by you and others so I hope I don’t disappoint!
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I just looked up the build myself. His ship looks great, but when it comes to a ship that we have few sources about on its appearance and specifications, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with making deviations in the design that make sense to you. He also didn’t refine the figurehead like you did, so it I think your own interpretation will work quite well.
Thank you! I concur!
I realized today that Bob Hunt’s practicum completely neglects to install timberheads and knightheads. Granted, they will be completely invisible once all the planking is done, but it still seems like the extra support will be crucial to getting a smooth curve when planking the bulwarks. With the garbage plywood MS is now using for the bulkheads, the stanchions are terribly flimsy. They break and fall off just by giving them a sour look.
Anyway, an object lesson that just because you have a practicum, it doesn’t mean you can ignore the kit instructions.
Anyway, an object lesson that just because you have a practicum, it doesn’t mean you can ignore the kit instructions.
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I’m fortunate to have access to a fairly well equipped wood shop on base, so I was able to go cut a former for the waterways, which had been soaking for a couple of hours.
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Thank you, Günther. I’m looking forward to seeing how it progresses alsoHey Namabiiru,
I'm really looking forward to seeing how your model progresses. Nice to see you making the walk round planks.
Cheers
Günther
I did have such high expectations for this kit, but as I discover more and more cost-saving shortcuts MS has introduced, it has me a bit disenfranchised. For example, I was messing around with the cannons today. Compare the carriage sides between old kit and current kit:
Can you guess which is which? Unfortunately, I’ve lost all but four of the original sides. So these will have to be replaced.
Here are the laser cut bases and trucks in the new kit with the fore and aft white metal axles from the original:
Actually, neither is great, but the new ones are definitely a step in the wrong direction.
And the original brass cannons with the newer white metal cannons:
Full disclosure, the trunnion on the brass cannon is my own experiment with soldering on a trunnion. The white metal cannon actually looks like it should clean up pretty well and is a bit more slender than its brass counterpart.
Can you guess which is which? Unfortunately, I’ve lost all but four of the original sides. So these will have to be replaced.
Here are the laser cut bases and trucks in the new kit with the fore and aft white metal axles from the original:
Actually, neither is great, but the new ones are definitely a step in the wrong direction.
And the original brass cannons with the newer white metal cannons:
Full disclosure, the trunnion on the brass cannon is my own experiment with soldering on a trunnion. The white metal cannon actually looks like it should clean up pretty well and is a bit more slender than its brass counterpart.
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Sorry to say but I don't think either looks right. For a fun side project would you consider making your own? If so, the Making Cannon thread here at SoS may be useful. Cost would be cheap for accurate barrels and carriages. Assuming she was a Bermuda built rig and considering the time frame she may have carried barrels that were similar to Armstrong Fredericks (1760-1790.)
Allan
Of course the sizes may be off on the below depending on her armament but the designs should be close. I have no idea on the cannon length or caliber but guess at 4 pounders, maybe 3s or 6s. $15 would get you at least a dozen 3D printed barrels that are super detailed. Drawings are available if you are interested
as well as contact information on a printer here in the US who has experience making these barrels.
Armstrong Frederick 6 pounder barrel:
Allan
Of course the sizes may be off on the below depending on her armament but the designs should be close. I have no idea on the cannon length or caliber but guess at 4 pounders, maybe 3s or 6s. $15 would get you at least a dozen 3D printed barrels that are super detailed. Drawings are available if you are interested
as well as contact information on a printer here in the US who has experience making these barrels.
Armstrong Frederick 6 pounder barrel:
Allan, thank you very much for sharing that. I’ve actually been following the cannon thread. I’ve known from the get-go that both the brass and the white metal are only representations of cannons, not accurate replicas, but I also considered them good enough for my purposes.
However, now I am faced with the choice of having to either make new carriages or purchase them. If I end up buying new ones from somewhere like Syren, that to me it makes sense to go ahead and pay the few extra dollars to get barrels as well.
Fortunately, I’ve Stumbled on this issue early enough in the build, I can spend some time contemplating my options.
If you are looking at 3D printed resin barrels Syren are good, but limited in stock sizes rather than custom printing to your specs and 2.5 to 3 times more expensive than what I have been paying from a professional 3D printer. I have absolutely no affiliation with the company I use and would be happy to send his contact information. Making carriages yourself in the pattern and size that is appropriate is not difficult. Your choice of course.
Allan
Thank you! Many options to consider!
I’ve reached a point in the build at which both the kit instructions and the practicum tell me to install the waterways. I believe this is intended to give the hull more rigidity, but I’ve already taken care of that with the filler blocks.
I’m not happy with how inconsistent the thickness of the bulwark stanchions are, between the cheap plywood, tiny misalignments in the bulkheads, and my inability to come up with an effective way to fair the interior compound curves. At this point I’m considering planking the hull and framing in the gunports, which will allow me to build up the bulwarks to a consistent thickness, after which waterways, covering boards and bulwark ceilings (is that the right term here?) can be installed.
Opinions from the experts?
I’m not happy with how inconsistent the thickness of the bulwark stanchions are, between the cheap plywood, tiny misalignments in the bulkheads, and my inability to come up with an effective way to fair the interior compound curves. At this point I’m considering planking the hull and framing in the gunports, which will allow me to build up the bulwarks to a consistent thickness, after which waterways, covering boards and bulwark ceilings (is that the right term here?) can be installed.
Opinions from the experts?
- Joined
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Namabiiru!
Just a short note on the proposal to plank - Yes do that thing! IMHO. I think you are right to analyze and question the instructions and find a method that makes sense to you based on your vision for your model. I see no reason to delay the planking of the hull - IF - by doing so you will retain access to the parts of the ship's guts you need to get to as you progress in the build - I'm thinking of the stern cabin in particular and the details you ar planning there.
Blessings.
Chuck
Just a short note on the proposal to plank - Yes do that thing! IMHO. I think you are right to analyze and question the instructions and find a method that makes sense to you based on your vision for your model. I see no reason to delay the planking of the hull - IF - by doing so you will retain access to the parts of the ship's guts you need to get to as you progress in the build - I'm thinking of the stern cabin in particular and the details you ar planning there.
Blessings.
Chuck
- Joined
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Well said. I built mine so long ago and before I had the slightest idea of what I was doing, that I'm afraid I have nothing to offer other than in the end the results were pleasing enough that a Navy vet in Boca Raton Fl. decided to buy it!
Thank you, Chuck! The deck planking will go later, so access to the great cabin shouldn’t be a problem. I saw a wise man say on two different sites that he wished he had moved the poop deck bulkhead aft so I’m already working on retro-fitting on of the bulkheads the practicum had me cut out. Looks like it will still be a respectably-sized great cabin.
Thank you, Peter. I doubt mine will turn out that nice. But I can already see the difference between my first attempt at this kit and my current effort, which benefits from the knowledge gained from this wonderful community.
Before any planking, the keel, stem and sternpost needed to be installed. I didn’t feel like the rabbeted false keel left enough contact area for a secure glue joined so I inserted six 1mm brass pins. I pre-drilled the keel, then drilled the rest of the way into the false keel after the glue had set. What I failed to do was pre-drill holes for the pedestals 
, so that’s another challenge to be solved in the future.
, so that’s another challenge to be solved in the future.
I learned from St Gildas that proper tumblehome can’t be achieved with straight planks. My solution for Fair American was to cut out an edge bending jig using the plans as a template:
After soaking for a couple of hours, the planks easily bend to the proper shape. I can do two planks at a time on this. The bending iron will be needed to bend the planks around the bow, which I suspect will require some experimentation to get right.
For those about to suggest spiling and shaping as an alternative to edge bending, that is an option I will pursue when I have the tools to custom make my own planks of the required width.
After soaking for a couple of hours, the planks easily bend to the proper shape. I can do two planks at a time on this. The bending iron will be needed to bend the planks around the bow, which I suspect will require some experimentation to get right.
For those about to suggest spiling and shaping as an alternative to edge bending, that is an option I will pursue when I have the tools to custom make my own planks of the required width.
Great cabin floor is finished, but I’ll wait until framing and planking are farther along before I install it.
Even with the foreshortened cabin, it still seems like plenty of room for the Captain to host his officers, don’t you think?
Even with the foreshortened cabin, it still seems like plenty of room for the Captain to host his officers, don’t you think?
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