french 64-gunner LE FLEURON in scale 1:48 by Joachim

Very good work my friend - I like your "metal" works - we can see on the results, that it is really worth to do the additional work
 
In the past few days I have made galleon knees and other parts of the galleon. I made the galleon knee from two parts. The galleon knees have gaps / depressions on the outer edges. A routing machine would be ideal for this, but I don't have one. I helped myself with my milling machine: I clamped a small metal rod (shaft of a broken micro drill) in the vice. I will press the piece of wood against the metal rod to mill the timber. The cutter comes from above (it would come from below on a router) and you have to set the height of the milling head and the distance to the metal rod. Push the timber firmly against the metal rod and the milling head and joints can be created . The metal rod ensures that you can always remove the same width of the joint and never remove too much wood. Such a joint would not be possible with a file, carving knife or something. However, give care to your fingers, first try it on other wood pieces. Especially at the ends of a workpiece, you have to be very careful that the milling cutter does not pull the wood away. If necessary, do not mill the joint at the end, but file manually.

For the openings in the bow for the anchor ropes, I turned brass metal sleeves that go through the bow and have a larger diameter on the outer wall than the opening. The starting material is an 11mm brass rod, into which 8 mm steel drills are drilled on the lathes. A small ring on the front of the sleeve for the outside remains 11mm thick. The remaining length is tapered to 9 mm in diameter using the lathes. The inside of the sleeve then has a wall thickness of approx. 0.5 mm and is stable. I haven't browned the sleeve yet, maybe I'll leave it like that, then you can see better, they're made of metal.

Now I wish everyone a nice Christmas

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I was looking at your model for the first time:
There is a serious error on the openings for the anchor ropes!
They must be parallel to the keel, not perpendicular to the side!
 
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I was looking at your model for the first time:
There is a serious error on the openings for the anchor ropes!
They must be parallel to the keel, not perpendicular to the side!
Maybe you can show us your comment and clarify it more with one photo, what exactly you mean?
I can see no error with the hawser holes.
Joachim:
HH3A9953.JPG

Kudin:
IMG_2863.JPG

Jacques Mailliere
IMG_11421.JPG

Delacroix drawings:
IMG_20221.jpg

It would be very good, if you could clarify this more in detail, best with a sketch or photo!
 
as Poul clearly explainded, the direction of the hole must be parallel to the keel, as in the green line; In this way, the cables have less friction during their movement. From the photo it is clear that the direction of the hole follows the red line:
cubie.png
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A really good discussion and I think , there exist many ways for the anchor chain and the holes, I can live with all possibilities At my real model the holes are now black and it’s hardly to see in reality, what degree the holes have. Yes The holes are not parallel, but I think the holes are nice. If they would be ugly, I would change it. I built the bow twice, because it was at first not so nice. And who really knows, how the original was, nobody of us saw her in Reality.

The newer ship Bismarck ((pictures of my Lego model , built in two weeks!) for example, has the holes on the side, so that the anchor chaine has to be pulled up in a 90 degree. And it works too.
 

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Now I'm reporting on the expansion of the two small rooms in the rear of the first canon deck. Of course, the two doors are special, which also open and approach hinges. The doors have a knob to open, too. For the grid windows in the doors, I ordered fine wire mats from Amazon, so finely you can't weave it yourself.

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I've been working at the rudder for a week. It consists of two wooden parts, which are joined together. I paint the rudder with red shellac.

The hinges are labor-intensive. 2x1 mm brass rod loop I on the plate grinder a little thinner, also so that they become more flexible. One thorn must be soldered on one part of the hinge, on the other a sleeve (which I previously drilled from a round rod on the lathe). 0.5 mm holes for the nails are then drilled into the hinges. I'm not ready yet, but I'll show my first pictures.

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Now I'm reporting on the expansion of the two small rooms in the rear of the first canon deck. Of course, the two doors are special, which also open and approach hinges. The doors have a knob to open, too. For the grid windows in the doors, I ordered fine wire mats from Amazon, so finely you can't weave it yourself.

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I don't want to be too critical, but the hinges and door handles are clearly off the scale !!! Often, and this is the case, an oversized detail damages all the good work that has been done ...
 
I think I expressed my thoughts in a polite way, I didn't want to be argumentative. Your model deserves more attention to detail!
If you prefer to make fun of you saying that everything is fine and that you did a wonderful job, happy you!
 
I think I expressed my thoughts in a polite way, I didn't want to be argumentative. Your model deserves more attention to detail!
If you prefer to make fun of you saying that everything is fine and that you did a wonderful job, happy you!
Joachim is doing here a good job, nevertheless nobody is perfect and also 99,9% of the models from us are not perfect.
As we know, that you are working in your actual model in a smaller scale, it would be good, if you can show or explain how to reach better results.
As I know Joachim personally, he is open for any hint and tip, especially because it is the first scratch build model by Joachim after some finished kit models.
 
Joachim is doing here a good job, nevertheless nobody is perfect and also 99,9% of the models from us are not perfect.
As we know, that you are working in your actual model in a smaller scale, it would be good, if you can show or explain how to reach better results.
As I know Joachim personally, he is open for any hint and tip, especially because it is the first scratch build model by Joachim after some finished kit models.
He is doing a beautiful job. Here are my thoughts on this. If I post a photo of my build and ask, what do you think? I want an honest constructive answer sort of like what Giampy gave, because I want to improve my modeling. So take a look at what you created and ask yourself... do I want to try and improve this, or am I fine with the way it is and I will use the advice on my next model. Your thoughts?
 
@Flying22low IMHO, I think there is a difference when you post the image (your work) and ask for an opinion. In such a case, you may expect both criticisms and\or compliments. Another case, if you just post your work to share without asking our thoughts. People have different reactions to criticism, and just because you see ways for improvements, it doesn't mean you have to criticize others' work, specifically if they don't ask for your opinion. There are much better ways for suggestions. Also, we know our skills and abilities, not everyone wants to improve them, and happy the way it is... We have a broad range of skills here on our forum, it makes it very interesting to watch without comparison.
 
I do agree with you. Its why I don't post my images. But I will if I want some critique. I think almost anyone here would like to improve their workmanship. I am fascinated by the quality of work people are showing here.
For me at this point I am only on my second build and will take whatever critique I can get, sometimes people are somewhat harsh in critiquing builds, but I take it it with a grain of salt.
 
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