H.M.S. Vanguard 1787 - Amati - 1:72 scale by ALucenti

Snowy said:
Very nice work
But do you think the gratings should go to the edge .
I have just seen other modellers comment on this point.
Cheers snowy
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Hi snowy. Thank you for your comment. In order to perfectly adhere to the measurements I had to cut them that way otherwise they would come out larger or smaller. The picture you see is of the real Victory ship. These grates will go on the first deck and will not be seen (or seen little) I could do the variation on the upper deck however I will not respect the measurements. I will think about it.

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Hi everyone.
Finally after various work commitments (and Covid), I resume my construction of the Vanguard. As several modeling friends have done, I built a "tube" with walnut laths. The measure is that of the cannon openings. I cut them in the thickness of the sides and after gluing them I sanded them to level.
Then I colored the openings with Tamiya red nr. HF-7 to which I added a little black to make it a little darker. But first I applied some wood primer to close the pores of the wood.

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So I started with the second planking. I started from the point recommended by the instructions. In the openings where the doors will go, I cut the strips (1x5 in walnut) in such a way as to show a recess of 1 mm. on the other hand, for openings without doors, I went all the way on board. To facilitate the work, I used strips of various widths. When I have finished the planking (and smoothed it) I will go over a coat of red paint in the openings

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Antonio Lucenti said:
So I started with the second planking. I started from the point recommended by the instructions. In the openings where the doors will go, I cut the strips (1x5 in walnut) in such a way as to show a recess of 1 mm. on the other hand, for openings without doors, I went all the way on board. To facilitate the work, I used strips of various widths. When I have finished the planking (and smoothed it) I will go over a coat of red paint in the openings

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Antonio,
Great idea you have for framing the gun ports! I completed the second layer planking prior to framing the gun ports based on the instructions I have. Now I'm trying to frame the gun ports and find it more difficult and tedious than your method. Your ship looks great!
 
Hi Andre and well found.
We are building the same ship and we are more or less on the same level. It will be nice and fun to exchange our experiences during our work journey.
For example: I'm trying to use cyanoacrylate glue for the second planking but I don't like it, is harmful and dirty a lot. So, I thought of using it only in the difficult places where the strip bends a lot, then I use aliphatic glue which is like vinyl glue but dries faster and can be sanded very well. I don't know which one I'll use with the copper cladding but I'll think about it later.
 
Antonio,
I am looking forward to watching your progress. If I see a better way of doing something I am all for it. Likewise, I hope I can offer you something of value on your build. As for the second layer planking, I did find the cyanoacrylate glue to work well for me. It bonds quick, 8 to 10 seconds, and allowed me to install the planks without pins or clamps. Based on a tip from Paul Kattner, I switched to a low odor/low bloom cyanoacrylate glue, Loctite 403 instant adhesive. Seems to be about the same medium viscosity as the Zap-A-Gap glue I was working with no allergic reactions so far. I will use the Loctite 403 for the copper cladding.
 
Hi everyone,
I am proceeding with the second planking. I have finished the part with the openings of the guns and proceed to the bottom of the hull.
I'm trying to take care of this part as best as possible because, even if it will be colored in black and ocher yellow, I would like the tables to be seen.
It was so in reality.

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For the same reason I will also cover the bow mirror and the parts of the stern galleries not covered by windows or balusters with walnut strips.

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GrantTyler, Thank you for your comments.
This is a Victory Models by Amati kit. At first I thought it was too much 670.00 for this Kit. Now I know my money was well spent.
The hull building instructions are not accurate and there are some oversights but so far I haven't had many problems.
I haven't used the illustrated boards for the mast and rigging yet, but they seem accurate.
The wood is of good quality and the laser cutting is precise. Even the brass friezes are very accurate as other details.
Many years ago I built models of Aeropiccola (which no longer exists) and Mantua Models, but this kit is of a higher level.
I am sending you two photos of a Spanish Vessel by Aeropiccola that I built many years ago.

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At the bow I created a groove (I learned from Adoyon) to facilitate the application of walnut strips and not to have too much thickness to file.
I measured and marked the positioning of the strips to help me in the skimming of the same bow and stern.
I will proceed from top to bottom until I cross the waterline then I will start from below

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Antonio
So, it's been slow going with framing the gun ports after the second layer planking. I am trying to be consistent with the size of the openings, which takes additional time over your method. Still working on the upper gun ports. I'll try something like your method for the lower gun ports. The photo below is what this is looking like now.
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Hi everyone,
Work on the second planking is progressing.
The 5x1 walnut strips are very delicate and you have to be very careful when bending because they can break easily.
The first planking was easier for me to apply because the linden wood is "softer" to work.
I wet the strips with a little water in the points where the strip was bent. I used a soft brush for this operation.
I am quite satisfied with the result achieved so far.
The hull is very dirty with glue but when I will sand it everything will disappear.

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