Instructions call for installing top 3 - 2x2mm wales before inserting the planking between them.
Half Moon (Corel) (SM18) 1:50 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]
All the walnut is on the hull. The two not-planked upper areas are for the kit provided decorative planks. The 1st row of walnut planking (next to the light colored lower hull) is the European Walnut. The remainder of the walnut rows are American Walnut. Considerable difference. Maybe I should have used the European Walnut all over even though it was different shades of brown. Do I remove/replace the European with American? Or do I just say the heck with it and leave as is? I'll think about that.
Hi Heinrich. I really didn't like the look. I had removed the planking last night.
Spent a good part of the day (off/on) planking one side with my walnut.
I have a little more work to clean it up.
Spent a good part of the day (off/on) planking one side with my walnut.
I have a little more work to clean it up.
Good morning. That is a serious redo- awesome. When I first saw the pictures I shared Heinrich’s view of just leaving it- maybe the photos hide some of the difference and clearly you just said no way. I definitely prefer the American walnut colour. A good decision for sure. Cheers Grant
Why do I do this? 
Ready to start work...
10 minutes later...
Ready to start work...
10 minutes later...
Finished re-planking the lower walnut.
I feel a bit churlish pointing this out, but there are established "trade practice rules" fixing the position of joints in the deck planking. These can be found in several reference books, but the main point is that joints should always be centralised on deck beams, secondary to that is that joints should be staggered so that planks with joints at the same deck beam should be separated by a number of planks, such as 3 planks or 5 planks, and joints in adjacent planks should be separated by a minimum number of deck beams, say 3. The way I manage this is to mark out the planking on the plywood sub deck taking account of the various openings and then establishing the best pattern of plank joints, avoiding very short planks wherever possible. I always plank using full length strips and then mark out the joints with a sharp pencil used firmly enough to make a slight depression at the joint. After the planking is complete I scrape the surface with the flat end of a steel ruler held vertically until all the planks are polished with no low spots.
Thanks ChrisP. That's pretty much the planking procedure I usually use to. Heinrich pointed out before I started the decking that Dutch ships decks aren't planked that way, but use random length/width planks - any wood they can find.
Edit: Heinrich post is on pg 4 #67
Edit: Heinrich post is on pg 4 #67
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I had notched out the bottoms of the gun ports on the wale before I planked, but haven't done anything else with them. Really be putting off as just didn't want to mess with these ports. Guess I have no choice - sooner or later must be done. So I started...
I've only cut one port so far.
I've made one door. Didn't push into place as it's a tight fit and wouldn't be able to get it out to stain. Guess about 1 hour work total. Only 7 more to go.
I've only cut one port so far.
I've made one door. Didn't push into place as it's a tight fit and wouldn't be able to get it out to stain. Guess about 1 hour work total. Only 7 more to go.
NOT looking forward to 7 more.
Not sure how the provided gun port hinge's are suppose to work. There's no parts to insert into the eyes on the hinges.
But looks like only one side of the hinge is used and two pegs are inserted into the hull. I'm thinking I use some small nails, bend them 90 degrees, paint them black and use them with the hinges
But looks like only one side of the hinge is used and two pegs are inserted into the hull. I'm thinking I use some small nails, bend them 90 degrees, paint them black and use them with the hinges
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That is pretty much the standard way, although usually brass rod is bent 90 degrees and used as you suggest. Soft nails would work as well.
Use bent pins for the hinge pins instead of wire. Insert the pointy end through the loop in the hinge. It may bind a bit as it turns the corner, but it usually works.
Blacken the pins with Brass Black.
After measuring the distance between the hinge pins, pre-drill holes in the hull. The top hole is for the cover lanyard.
The cover lanyard is glued in the to hole, and fed through the cover and left loose there.
Using small needle nosed pliers, insert the pins into pre-drilled holes, inching each pin alternately so the cover approaches the hull evenly and you don't break one of the hinges off the cover.
And add a bit of CA glue to the pin with a toothpick just before shoving each pin all the way in with a needle nosed pliers.
Adjust the slide the cover up the lanyard until it's at the desired position.
Glue the lanyard to the cover.
The other end of the lanyard simulated the cover closing lanyard. It is carefully glued to the hull inside surface to simulate this line.
Blacken the pins with Brass Black.
After measuring the distance between the hinge pins, pre-drill holes in the hull. The top hole is for the cover lanyard.
The cover lanyard is glued in the to hole, and fed through the cover and left loose there.
Using small needle nosed pliers, insert the pins into pre-drilled holes, inching each pin alternately so the cover approaches the hull evenly and you don't break one of the hinges off the cover.
And add a bit of CA glue to the pin with a toothpick just before shoving each pin all the way in with a needle nosed pliers.
Adjust the slide the cover up the lanyard until it's at the desired position.
Glue the lanyard to the cover.
The other end of the lanyard simulated the cover closing lanyard. It is carefully glued to the hull inside surface to simulate this line.
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I am sorry, Rob, but cannon ports HAVE to sit flush in the hull when they are closed. How else would be they relatively watertight?
An incorrect example another modeler building a non-Dutch ship does not provide provenance either.
An incorrect example another modeler building a non-Dutch ship does not provide provenance either.
Thank you Kurt for the images. Beautiful ship. I think I have some small brass nails. Thank you to Heinrich, I understand.
I'm not sure that the doors shown are outside the hull. There may be just a small gap all around giving that impression. I believe they are flush or nearly so, and all gun doors must be flush with the outer hull planking.