Thx Richard,
The move explains a lot. After receiving the kit, I sent an email with the kit serial number and never received a response. Do you happen to have an email address?
Marc
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HMS Agamemnon by Caldercraft
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The move explains a lot. After receiving the kit, I sent an email with the kit serial number and never received a response. Do you happen to have an email address?
Marc
Dear Allan,
Learned something useful again! Where did the Rabbet stop at the bow?
I have a reservation.
We're dealing with a double-planked model here.
Suppose I stopped the Rabbet at 20. Then I need to glue two strips, each 1.5 mm thick (3 mm total!) to the keel? And then sand it?
Cheers,
Marc
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Richwright@jotika.com
or Johnwright@jotika.com
Maybe mention my name I did sell a few of their kits before shops didnt like me doing it
Quite pleased because of PayPal Rules
Hi Marc,
As far as I have seen it never stops at the bow, but rather follows the line of the keel to the boxing joint, onto the stem and up to the top of the stem. This is usually shown clearly on inboard profile plans.
I might have asked before, and apologize if I already did..... do you have all the RMG Agamemnon drawings in high resolution downloaded? I would attach them but the ones I have total 366 MB
Allan
As you are now into the planking of the hull, another thing to consider is the taper of the thickness of the wales. If the model is to be double planked it may be more difficult to do this, but the wales taper to the same thickness as the surrounding planking starting at about the hawse pieces so they seat in the rabbet the same as the other planking. They did not stick out like we sometimes see on modern models.
Model forgetting proper tapering of the wales thickness.
Model forgetting proper tapering of the wales thickness.
The progress of the planking...slow but I try to do my best...
So, the first planking is in place.
I just did my first very light sanding with coarse sandpaper. And I've noticed I don't really need to use any wood filler...
After all, if I noticed a small gap between two strips while planking, I immediately filled it with CA glue and then lightly sanded over the glue. This allowed the sawdust to blend into the gap, giving me a nice, finished look
I just did my first very light sanding with coarse sandpaper. And I've noticed I don't really need to use any wood filler...
After all, if I noticed a small gap between two strips while planking, I immediately filled it with CA glue and then lightly sanded over the glue. This allowed the sawdust to blend into the gap, giving me a nice, finished look
I deviated from the building instructions.
Normally, you would plank this section of the Stern directly with 1 x 3mm walnut strips. However, I decided to first install 1x3mm limewood strips, and later the 1x3mm walnut strips. This allows me to better fit the strips onto the Hull strips and allows me to sand them down a bit more if necessary. Naturally, it also provides a stronger base for gluing the walnut strips.
Normally, you would plank this section of the Stern directly with 1 x 3mm walnut strips. However, I decided to first install 1x3mm limewood strips, and later the 1x3mm walnut strips. This allows me to better fit the strips onto the Hull strips and allows me to sand them down a bit more if necessary. Naturally, it also provides a stronger base for gluing the walnut strips.
As mentioned before, I shouldn't apply wood filler. But after holding the Hull under a light, I noticed imperfections, so I added a little filler here and there...
I don't like to face closed doors....
Thx Allan
Thx Iutar,
I thought the purpose of the riser was to stop any seawater coming over the bow. That's why I didn't pay any attention to it.But I'll change it.
In looking at photos of contemporary models, I agree with Iutar that many/most seem to have the door flush with the decking. But, there may be exceptions. The below seems to have the door above the deck or perhaps it is a stop like in the sketch below.
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Dear Iutar and dear Allan,
You should always follow the advice of the grandmasters...so adjusted the doorway.
You should always follow the advice of the grandmasters...so adjusted the doorway.
I don't understand. The kit provides a template for marking the gun ports.
Simply place the template on the hull and transfer the "openings" to the Hull. Drill out neatly, and you'll have the gun ports. But the dimensions of the template don't match the other plans.
There's a difference of up to 3 mm...
In the end, I opted to base my measurements on the supplied gun port lids... So, adjust everything!
Simply place the template on the hull and transfer the "openings" to the Hull. Drill out neatly, and you'll have the gun ports. But the dimensions of the template don't match the other plans.
There's a difference of up to 3 mm...
In the end, I opted to base my measurements on the supplied gun port lids... So, adjust everything!
But did you measure the inside or the outside of the gunport door ?,
The openings you cut out in the hull are in the first layer of your planking...
The openings you cut out in the hull are in the first layer of your planking...
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Sorry to ask, but what does this mean? If you are talking about the port lids, the outer layer of the lid matches the opening of the port in the hull. The inner layer of the lid is about 3 inches smaller fore and aft, and 1.5 inches smaller up and down so it fits inside the two stops on the sides and the one stop on the bottom of the opening. Can you post a sketch of what you mean?
Thanks Willbor237
Allan
The sketch below shows the outer layer and inner layer of the lid which are the dashed lines on the left drawing. The outer layer would match the opening of the port opening. The outer layer of planking lines up with the hull planking.
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English gun port covers of the second half of the 18th century had a different design. Some cases have been noted already in the first half of the century. Although there are exceptions on some museum models.
Slade's ships have lids without edging.
Slade's ships have lids without edging.