Thank you very much. A few more steps and you can glue it and then the base will be even stronger)) I can't wait to fix the frames, but for this I still need to make a frame.
HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)
- Thread starter serikoff
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2.5 Rework (grooves, holes and XVIII)
As I showed above, the BL6 detail needs to be finalized, but... the method that, according to the instructions, is a little more complicated than what I did. Plus, in my method, I was able to eliminate the hole that appeared due to an error in the size of the parts.
I cut some of that detail along the line of the bottom skin board...
... and the result is a slightly larger hole ))) ...
And then I glued a piece of wood to the false keel...
... and after fitting...
... it turned out like this.
The next refinement was the holes for the deadeye stay. Since I was redoing the part, I decided to do the holes correctly. And again a little theory.
In short: the holes should not be exactly in the center of the part, since there is a metal bowsprit holder. And also the holes should not be one after another, since the ropes will then go along the same line and overlap, wedge and grind each other. Therefore, they must go radially at approximately the same distance.
Plus the holes are too big.
On the sampler, I made not only holes and covered with oil, but also made decorative lines.
It is better to make holes starting from a small diameter and raise. Controlling the parallelism and accuracy of the exit from the other side.
I made stripes with a knife.
The top thin line is simply a cut with scalpel (s). The lower one is more complicated. You need to make two cuts (a, b), and then carefully remove the tree between them (c) and you get a larger cut (d).
Well, here's the result:
The third revision was the Latin figures of the ship's draft.
On small ships, these numbers were on the front of the ship on both sides and went parallel to the waterline along the arc of the skin.
To do this, I made a small stencil, calculated the distance between the numbers and drew parallels on which the numbers will be applied. And with the help of a ruler for cutting, he drew an arc. And applied numbers.
Then he cut out their silhouette very carefully with a knife. I recommend cutting each line twice. Above and then below and, as it were, bringing them together. Thus, there will be no risk of drawing a line further than it should be and the section will be of the same thickness.
I used tape to transfer the position to the other side. When peeling it off, it leaves all the markings on itself and then you just need to lean the tape (not with the adhesive side) and put dots on the sides of the lines. And then just draw those lines between points. And since the tape is positioned in the same way as on the other side, the entire markup will be mirrored (the main number cannot be made mirrored))
Then you need to erase the pencil and you're done...
Of the improvements, it remains only to adjust the landing meta for metal parts and you can glue both keels.
As I showed above, the BL6 detail needs to be finalized, but... the method that, according to the instructions, is a little more complicated than what I did. Plus, in my method, I was able to eliminate the hole that appeared due to an error in the size of the parts.
I cut some of that detail along the line of the bottom skin board...
... and the result is a slightly larger hole ))) ...
And then I glued a piece of wood to the false keel...
... and after fitting...
... it turned out like this.
The next refinement was the holes for the deadeye stay. Since I was redoing the part, I decided to do the holes correctly. And again a little theory.
In short: the holes should not be exactly in the center of the part, since there is a metal bowsprit holder. And also the holes should not be one after another, since the ropes will then go along the same line and overlap, wedge and grind each other. Therefore, they must go radially at approximately the same distance.
Plus the holes are too big.
On the sampler, I made not only holes and covered with oil, but also made decorative lines.
It is better to make holes starting from a small diameter and raise. Controlling the parallelism and accuracy of the exit from the other side.
I made stripes with a knife.
The top thin line is simply a cut with scalpel (s). The lower one is more complicated. You need to make two cuts (a, b), and then carefully remove the tree between them (c) and you get a larger cut (d).
Well, here's the result:
The third revision was the Latin figures of the ship's draft.
On small ships, these numbers were on the front of the ship on both sides and went parallel to the waterline along the arc of the skin.
To do this, I made a small stencil, calculated the distance between the numbers and drew parallels on which the numbers will be applied. And with the help of a ruler for cutting, he drew an arc. And applied numbers.
Then he cut out their silhouette very carefully with a knife. I recommend cutting each line twice. Above and then below and, as it were, bringing them together. Thus, there will be no risk of drawing a line further than it should be and the section will be of the same thickness.
I used tape to transfer the position to the other side. When peeling it off, it leaves all the markings on itself and then you just need to lean the tape (not with the adhesive side) and put dots on the sides of the lines. And then just draw those lines between points. And since the tape is positioned in the same way as on the other side, the entire markup will be mirrored (the main number cannot be made mirrored))
Then you need to erase the pencil and you're done...
Of the improvements, it remains only to adjust the landing meta for metal parts and you can glue both keels.
Very skillful carving of the numbers, Sergey!
Thank you! I just didn't breathe at that moment))))
Nicely made details and explanations, Sergey.2.5 Rework (grooves, holes and XVIII)
As I showed above, the BL6 detail needs to be finalized, but... the method that, according to the instructions, is a little more complicated than what I did. Plus, in my method, I was able to eliminate the hole that appeared due to an error in the size of the parts.
View attachment 515183
I cut some of that detail along the line of the bottom skin board...
View attachment 515184
... and the result is a slightly larger hole ))) ...
View attachment 515185
And then I glued a piece of wood to the false keel...
View attachment 515186
... and after fitting...
View attachment 515187
... it turned out like this.
View attachment 515188
The next refinement was the holes for the deadeye stay. Since I was redoing the part, I decided to do the holes correctly. And again a little theory.
View attachment 515189
In short: the holes should not be exactly in the center of the part, since there is a metal bowsprit holder. And also the holes should not be one after another, since the ropes will then go along the same line and overlap, wedge and grind each other. Therefore, they must go radially at approximately the same distance.
Plus the holes are too big.
View attachment 515190
On the sampler, I made not only holes and covered with oil, but also made decorative lines.
View attachment 515191
It is better to make holes starting from a small diameter and raise. Controlling the parallelism and accuracy of the exit from the other side.
I made stripes with a knife.
View attachment 515192
The top thin line is simply a cut with scalpel (s). The lower one is more complicated. You need to make two cuts (a, b), and then carefully remove the tree between them (c) and you get a larger cut (d).
Well, here's the result:
View attachment 515193
View attachment 515194
The third revision was the Latin figures of the ship's draft.
View attachment 515195
On small ships, these numbers were on the front of the ship on both sides and went parallel to the waterline along the arc of the skin.
View attachment 515196
To do this, I made a small stencil, calculated the distance between the numbers and drew parallels on which the numbers will be applied. And with the help of a ruler for cutting, he drew an arc. And applied numbers.
View attachment 515197
Then he cut out their silhouette very carefully with a knife. I recommend cutting each line twice. Above and then below and, as it were, bringing them together. Thus, there will be no risk of drawing a line further than it should be and the section will be of the same thickness.
View attachment 515198
I used tape to transfer the position to the other side. When peeling it off, it leaves all the markings on itself and then you just need to lean the tape (not with the adhesive side) and put dots on the sides of the lines. And then just draw those lines between points. And since the tape is positioned in the same way as on the other side, the entire markup will be mirrored (the main number cannot be made mirrored))
View attachment 515199
Then you need to erase the pencil and you're done...
View attachment 515200
Of the improvements, it remains only to adjust the landing meta for metal parts and you can glue both keels.
Regards, Peter
I just have an emotional swing in recent days... And I have good news and bad news.... But more on that later, but for now a bit of refinement...
From what remains to make seats for metal parts.
Front is two horseshoes for our horse)))
Behind - two "hourglasses".
All of them are with holders that had to be bitten off with nippers, adjust the geometry with abrasive and drill holes (since on the horseshoes - they were all not through, I did not touch them yet, but on the "clock" most of them are through, because they were drilled those that were closed).
But naturally, all these details did not fall into place...
Since the milling cutter makes the corners rounded, it was necessary to make them correct geometry, as on parts. I processed the curved lines with boron...
And flat surfaces - with a scalpel. And after that, the "horseshoe" sat tightly in its place.
With the rear part similarly.
It was necessary to sharpen the corners with a scalpel and everything fell into place.
This is the end of the keel job. (P.S. metal parts are deposited back into the cache.) There are 4 more parts that I will do next, but I will not glue it yet, I will leave it in the slipway at the time of assembly.
Well, now the cry of the soul and my emotional swing...
From what remains to make seats for metal parts.
Front is two horseshoes for our horse)))
Behind - two "hourglasses".
All of them are with holders that had to be bitten off with nippers, adjust the geometry with abrasive and drill holes (since on the horseshoes - they were all not through, I did not touch them yet, but on the "clock" most of them are through, because they were drilled those that were closed).
But naturally, all these details did not fall into place...
Since the milling cutter makes the corners rounded, it was necessary to make them correct geometry, as on parts. I processed the curved lines with boron...
And flat surfaces - with a scalpel. And after that, the "horseshoe" sat tightly in its place.
With the rear part similarly.
It was necessary to sharpen the corners with a scalpel and everything fell into place.
This is the end of the keel job. (P.S. metal parts are deposited back into the cache.) There are 4 more parts that I will do next, but I will not glue it yet, I will leave it in the slipway at the time of assembly.
Well, now the cry of the soul and my emotional swing...
Let's start with the bad news!
And won about wood. In short, I have a supply of pears in basically two tones (darker and lighter). And I thought to use it on the second case of Alert. And a couple of days ago I got it to plan to cut into blanks, and there is trouble!! The one that is darker - it is all in knots and it will not be enough for everything in such a condition (there will be a lot of marriage). And the one that is lighter (not only is it a little with a yellow tint, but you want it with brown), but it is also striped and spotty. Like the one that is darker, but it is not so much spotted. In short, this all upset me very much and for a couple of days I was confused. I spent 2 days calculating the material that I have, but I understood that it would suck.
Only the third color pleased me, but I have only one plate and such a color - it will be for things on the deck and I was looking for material on the deck and sides.
The photo above shows transverse stripes that appear under oils (any) like this:
Even bitumen does not save from this banding and spotting. Although the color is just wonderful under bitumen, I checked, it behaves the same on the spots, even through it the spots and stripes are visible. And it turns out that I have all the wood either in knots and with a pronounced structure, or in stripes and spots...
BUT... there is one but... And that's good news.
The person who sold me the Alert set and agreed to me to cut my pears advised me to find a person from whom I bought myself a pear even before the war. He did not remember where, and no matter how I searched the Internet, I could not find this seller. And when I was already desperate and flipping through everything on OLX (local eBay), I accidentally found a pink pear seller who has been selling it for modellers for 15 years. I called him and on Friday I will order 40 50x5000 dies of different thickness of a pink pear of several tones. And since eminent modellers bought from him and he has been doing this for many years, I hope that it will be the perfect pear.
To be honest - it already added motivation... because the last days only about the pear and thought and little engaged in the ship.
So moreover, he is still engaged in 3D milling and in theory, with him I can make a ship hull for the second Alert... and this is another pain that I had before recently, after the person who could help me with this was taken to war.
So, let's hope for the best and that everything will work out as planned.
And won about wood. In short, I have a supply of pears in basically two tones (darker and lighter). And I thought to use it on the second case of Alert. And a couple of days ago I got it to plan to cut into blanks, and there is trouble!! The one that is darker - it is all in knots and it will not be enough for everything in such a condition (there will be a lot of marriage). And the one that is lighter (not only is it a little with a yellow tint, but you want it with brown), but it is also striped and spotty. Like the one that is darker, but it is not so much spotted. In short, this all upset me very much and for a couple of days I was confused. I spent 2 days calculating the material that I have, but I understood that it would suck.
Only the third color pleased me, but I have only one plate and such a color - it will be for things on the deck and I was looking for material on the deck and sides.
The photo above shows transverse stripes that appear under oils (any) like this:
Even bitumen does not save from this banding and spotting. Although the color is just wonderful under bitumen, I checked, it behaves the same on the spots, even through it the spots and stripes are visible. And it turns out that I have all the wood either in knots and with a pronounced structure, or in stripes and spots...
BUT... there is one but... And that's good news.
The person who sold me the Alert set and agreed to me to cut my pears advised me to find a person from whom I bought myself a pear even before the war. He did not remember where, and no matter how I searched the Internet, I could not find this seller. And when I was already desperate and flipping through everything on OLX (local eBay), I accidentally found a pink pear seller who has been selling it for modellers for 15 years. I called him and on Friday I will order 40 50x5000 dies of different thickness of a pink pear of several tones. And since eminent modellers bought from him and he has been doing this for many years, I hope that it will be the perfect pear.
To be honest - it already added motivation... because the last days only about the pear and thought and little engaged in the ship.
So moreover, he is still engaged in 3D milling and in theory, with him I can make a ship hull for the second Alert... and this is another pain that I had before recently, after the person who could help me with this was taken to war.
So, let's hope for the best and that everything will work out as planned.
Good morning Sergey. Wow. After reading your work on your keel, grinding line etc there is much I missed out on. There are one or two things I can improve on when I take it out the cradle so thanks for sharing your detail. You have skills for sure. Cheers Grant
Thank you very much. Yes, I try to think everything through as much as possible in advance. It takes a lot of time and it is not always possible to think everything through, but if you do everything as timely as possible and take into account future manipulations, then this will simplify future steps or even make them possible, since sometimes if something is not done on time, then it is not always possible to fix it. Now I am just thinking about one global change and deciding whether to do it... but this is a little later)))
Thanks a lot.
2.6 Lodgements for front and rear frames.
Finally, the final part of this chapter... several parts and you can collect everything in one lump.
As I mentioned earlier, I will redo the rear lodgements, since those from the set are light.
The plus is that although there are not many on the dies, there is an empty space where you can place the parts. Cut out with a hand jigsaw and refined with files.
The photo is not very visible, but in life the old ones are much lighter and grainy and I do not regret the time spent on processing new ones.
I did the processing with a grinder, but I'll warn you right away... for beginners, I recommend that you definitely practice on the probe, since the manipulation is quite difficult.
It is imperative to set reference lines to see the edges of the parts. Well, here is the result before and after grinding.
Well, it is not unimportant, symmetry and repeatability, since the sides are mirrored and the parts should be the same.
Naturally, the parts are pre-processed and after fixation, they will be ground in place together with the frames. But now I will not fix them. During the assembly process, I will once again adjust everything to each other and adjustments can be made.
I also prepared the details of the BL30.
Cut off the holders and sanded it, but again, I did not contour it like 3 pairs of front frames. There are special stickers for all these parts, but! I do not recommend blindly believing in the accuracy of all these stickers. It is better to do all these manipulations in place during the assembly process so as not to polish too much.
And the last detail was a temporary keel. Its purpose is to replace the real keel at the time of assembly of the case. And after the final grinding of the case (and most likely during the grinding process), it will be removed and the case will be scanned. All this will be necessary so that the hull bulb for the second model is without a keel. And the keel will be made and glued at the time of lining with slats. On this body from the set, a real keel will be installed after the external surfaces of the model are scanned and finally polished. If nothing is clear, then in the future I will talk about it in detail.
The temporary keel was made from fragments of templates (jig) on which there were frames. I glued suitable pieces together with diagonal joints and two layers with just a little grinding gave exactly the same thickness as the keel. In the next chapter, I will show in detail and tell you about this detail...
... in the meantime, we can officially say that chapter 2 is over!
P.S. and finally it will be possible to show the slipway, which is already ready for me and is waiting for publication.
Finally, the final part of this chapter... several parts and you can collect everything in one lump.
As I mentioned earlier, I will redo the rear lodgements, since those from the set are light.
The plus is that although there are not many on the dies, there is an empty space where you can place the parts. Cut out with a hand jigsaw and refined with files.
The photo is not very visible, but in life the old ones are much lighter and grainy and I do not regret the time spent on processing new ones.
I did the processing with a grinder, but I'll warn you right away... for beginners, I recommend that you definitely practice on the probe, since the manipulation is quite difficult.
It is imperative to set reference lines to see the edges of the parts. Well, here is the result before and after grinding.
Well, it is not unimportant, symmetry and repeatability, since the sides are mirrored and the parts should be the same.
Naturally, the parts are pre-processed and after fixation, they will be ground in place together with the frames. But now I will not fix them. During the assembly process, I will once again adjust everything to each other and adjustments can be made.
I also prepared the details of the BL30.
Cut off the holders and sanded it, but again, I did not contour it like 3 pairs of front frames. There are special stickers for all these parts, but! I do not recommend blindly believing in the accuracy of all these stickers. It is better to do all these manipulations in place during the assembly process so as not to polish too much.
And the last detail was a temporary keel. Its purpose is to replace the real keel at the time of assembly of the case. And after the final grinding of the case (and most likely during the grinding process), it will be removed and the case will be scanned. All this will be necessary so that the hull bulb for the second model is without a keel. And the keel will be made and glued at the time of lining with slats. On this body from the set, a real keel will be installed after the external surfaces of the model are scanned and finally polished. If nothing is clear, then in the future I will talk about it in detail.
The temporary keel was made from fragments of templates (jig) on which there were frames. I glued suitable pieces together with diagonal joints and two layers with just a little grinding gave exactly the same thickness as the keel. In the next chapter, I will show in detail and tell you about this detail...
... in the meantime, we can officially say that chapter 2 is over!
P.S. and finally it will be possible to show the slipway, which is already ready for me and is waiting for publication.
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Great achivement!2.6 Lodgements for front and rear frames.
Finally, the final part of this chapter... several parts and you can collect everything in one lump.
As I mentioned earlier, I will redo the rear lodgements, since those from the set are light.
View attachment 516428
The plus is that although there are not many on the dies, there is an empty space where you can place the parts. Cut out with a hand jigsaw and refined with files.
View attachment 516429
The photo is not very visible, but in life the old ones are much lighter and grainy and I do not regret the time spent on processing new ones.
I did the processing with a grinder, but I'll warn you right away... for beginners, I recommend that you definitely practice on the probe, since the manipulation is quite difficult.
View attachment 516430
It is imperative to set reference lines to see the edges of the parts. Well, here is the result before and after grinding.
View attachment 516431
Well, it is not unimportant, symmetry and repeatability, since the sides are mirrored and the parts should be the same.
View attachment 516432
Naturally, the parts are pre-processed and after fixation, they will be ground in place together with the frames. But now I will not fix them. During the assembly process, I will once again adjust everything to each other and adjustments can be made.
I also prepared the details of the BL30.
View attachment 516433
Cut off the holders and sanded it, but again, I did not contour it like 3 pairs of front frames. There are special stickers for all these parts, but! I do not recommend blindly believing in the accuracy of all these stickers. It is better to do all these manipulations in place during the assembly process so as not to polish too much.
And the last detail was a temporary keel. Its purpose is to replace the real keel at the time of assembly of the case. And after the final grinding of the case (and most likely during the grinding process), it will be removed and the case will be scanned. All this will be necessary so that the hull bulb for the second model is without a keel. And the keel will be made and glued at the time of lining with slats. On this body from the set, a real keel will be installed after the external surfaces of the model are scanned and finally polished. If nothing is clear, then in the future I will talk about it in detail.
View attachment 516434
The temporary keel was made from fragments of templates (jig) on which there were frames. I glued suitable pieces together with diagonal joints and two layers with just a little grinding gave exactly the same thickness as the keel. In the next chapter, I will show in detail and tell you about this detail...
... in the meantime, we can officially say that chapter 2 is over!
P.S. and finally it will be possible to show the slipway, which is already ready for me and is waiting for publication.
Chapter 3. Carcass Assembly
The chapter will consist of several parts:
3.1 slipway (gluing jigs to assemble the case),
3.2 keel (rework and gluing of keel),
3.3 frames (adjustment and fixation of frames)...
3.1 Assembly of the Slipway.
I didn't think this stage would be so fast... I collected the slipway in one day. And in one more day he was completely glued together... and it was cool.
To watch something unreal come out of 4.5 plates - it was so exciting. Something has not fascinated me for a long time... but in order. (I did not forget to take pictures of everything and I think my illustrations will help those who will collect this cool kit.
And I'll start right away with a few tips:
I. In order not to breathe dust from burning when laser cutting - use a vacuum cleaner with such a nozzle. she does a good job of cleaning up what then flies in the air.
II. In order for the parts to be better assembled, use a file. And as shown in the photo above: 1- slightly expand the grooves into which the parts will enter (but not much). 2- sharpen the plane that will enter the groove (but again not much, check and then you will understand how much you need to grind), 3- sharpen a little the ends so that the parts do not wedge, 4- the groove for the keel should be the same size as the keel + - 5 mm. This must be done before gluing, otherwise it will then be inconvenient to grind in place.
III. I recommend that you first assemble the entire slipway and only then glue it. And remember that there are parts that need to be fixed NOT using glue!!!
Next, we go according to the instructions...
Next, we will analyze a little detail of the amplification for the front and rear structures.
I repeat, the grooves for the keel should be thick so that the keel of the tad passes tightly, does not wedge and does not dangle. This needs to be checked before gluing.
Special attention to these side holders. Front and back with identical gluing slots, and they need not to be confused!
But these columns have their own sides!
Parts 28 and 29 are not the same, so you need to strictly follow the instructions and before gluing - try to put the cover on top to make sure that it passes into your grooves!
I also advise you to slightly expand the slot for the following parts, otherwise, when you spell, the parts may be damaged.
The photo below shows the parts that are fixed WITHOUT glue!
Details 25,26,27 can be unfastened, and 16,17. And when pulling out the case with the upper cover, the parts 15 will be removed together with the case. If they are glued, they will simply jam the case and have to destroy the slipway.
Glued the entire slipway to gel cyanocrylate with an activator. It is possible on PVA, but then it will be necessary to wait a little and hold all the parts together for a long time. CA - allows you to quickly and efficiently glue (necessarily gel) if you use an activator.
I glued everything right at the very end, so all the photos below (like all the upper ones) will also be without glue.
To connect the bottom with the lid, you need to use shutters, without glue!
And toothed parts are also fixed with special latches, and also without glue.
I do not advise you to paint the slipway. I wanted to... but this idea is not very good. The material is poorly painted with aerosol paint. And all this I wanted in order to block the zone of blackness from laser cutting. It will contact the side surfaces of the frames and can paint them. So far I have polished these places with a small file. It doesn't seem to get dirty. But you can try to cover these zones with varnish (I haven't tried it yet), but if after testing from a file the result is 100%, then this will be the right way.
This completes the assembly and in the next post I will show photos of the finished slipway (note: in the photo, the slipway has so far been assembled without glue.)
Last edited:
Fully assembled Slipway.
(*but so far without latches and glue)
(*but so far without latches and glue)