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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

Finally, the day has come... I've finished the planking!

Over 120 elements and the hull is finally completely covered, with plastic now only on the top, and of course, the inside. There's still a lot of work to do on the planking, but it's nothing compared to the work already done... not without flaws and not without losses... today, for the first time in all my years of building ships, I cut my index finger pretty badly... I'm glad it was on my left hand. This is extremely undesirable for me, since I'm a doctor and always wear gloves, and wounds heal very poorly with them... but as it is, I rushed it - here's the result.

So! As I already mentioned, due to the asymmetry of the hull, an extra 1 mm appeared. And I thought about cutting the new strip from the plank not along the edge, but along the plane... and here's what happened:

Alert 1336.jpg

The photo above shows that different cutting angles produce different wood grain patterns and, most importantly, different colors! It might have seemed like the previously coated wood had changed color, but I deliberately cut and coated the new strip the same way, and the color was similar to the previously prepared ones. The cut at a different angle produced differences that I wasn't happy with. So, I decided to glue two strips together with PVA glue, using a minimal glue line, hoping it wouldn't be noticeable.

Alert 1337.jpg

After sanding (it lightened the color a bit) and adjusting the width, I spot-glued it with liquid CA. This is the 17th and final belt, which contacts the keel.

Alert 1338.jpg

Alert 1339.jpg

Alert 1340.jpg

At high magnification, the glue seam is visible, but later we'll see how much camouflage it will provide.

Then I cut and calibrated the 16th (second-to-last) belt and traced the cutting line on the 17th belt using its profile with a blade.

Alert 1341.jpg

Here you can clearly see:

Alert 1342.jpg

As a result, I got a clear groove, after which I glued the 17th belt with liquid CA (since before this I glued it spot-on so that the glue would not interfere with the cut.

Alert 1343.jpg

Then I glued the 16th belt into the groove with CA gel and poured liquid CA over the joints.

Alert 1344.jpg

Alert 1345.jpg

Now let's check how visible the glue seam will be.

Alert 1346.jpg

If you look at the hull up close and turn it over, you'll barely see the glue line in the middle section. But please note that from this angle, the hull will only be visible during construction. Once it's mounted on the stand, the step from the top chord will almost completely cover this line. Not to mention that the ship's bottom is completely in the shadows, to put it mildly, but oh well :p

And from the other side, everything is the same, except everything is perfect, just the way I like it (and without any unnecessary millimeters ROTF

Alert 1347.jpg

Using the profile of the finished 16th belt, I cut off the excess from the 17th belt with a scalpel...

Alert 1348.jpg

Well, I glue the closing 16th trim belt into the finished groove.

Alert 1349.jpg

I like how it turned out here! I initially thought the front side of the model would be on the right, but now... I'm thinking I'll change it to the left... if I don't screw it up Alien

I'll show the result in the next post...
 
Finally, the day has come... I've finished the planking!

Over 120 elements and the hull is finally completely covered, with plastic now only on the top, and of course, the inside. There's still a lot of work to do on the planking, but it's nothing compared to the work already done... not without flaws and not without losses... today, for the first time in all my years of building ships, I cut my index finger pretty badly... I'm glad it was on my left hand. This is extremely undesirable for me, since I'm a doctor and always wear gloves, and wounds heal very poorly with them... but as it is, I rushed it - here's the result.

So! As I already mentioned, due to the asymmetry of the hull, an extra 1 mm appeared. And I thought about cutting the new strip from the plank not along the edge, but along the plane... and here's what happened:

View attachment 548159

The photo above shows that different cutting angles produce different wood grain patterns and, most importantly, different colors! It might have seemed like the previously coated wood had changed color, but I deliberately cut and coated the new strip the same way, and the color was similar to the previously prepared ones. The cut at a different angle produced differences that I wasn't happy with. So, I decided to glue two strips together with PVA glue, using a minimal glue line, hoping it wouldn't be noticeable.

View attachment 548160

After sanding (it lightened the color a bit) and adjusting the width, I spot-glued it with liquid CA. This is the 17th and final belt, which contacts the keel.

View attachment 548161

View attachment 548162

View attachment 548163

At high magnification, the glue seam is visible, but later we'll see how much camouflage it will provide.

Then I cut and calibrated the 16th (second-to-last) belt and traced the cutting line on the 17th belt using its profile with a blade.

View attachment 548164

Here you can clearly see:

View attachment 548165

As a result, I got a clear groove, after which I glued the 17th belt with liquid CA (since before this I glued it spot-on so that the glue would not interfere with the cut.

View attachment 548166

Then I glued the 16th belt into the groove with CA gel and poured liquid CA over the joints.

View attachment 548167

View attachment 548168

Now let's check how visible the glue seam will be.

View attachment 548169

If you look at the hull up close and turn it over, you'll barely see the glue line in the middle section. But please note that from this angle, the hull will only be visible during construction. Once it's mounted on the stand, the step from the top chord will almost completely cover this line. Not to mention that the ship's bottom is completely in the shadows, to put it mildly, but oh well :p

And from the other side, everything is the same, except everything is perfect, just the way I like it (and without any unnecessary millimeters ROTF

View attachment 548170

Using the profile of the finished 16th belt, I cut off the excess from the 17th belt with a scalpel...

View attachment 548171

Well, I glue the closing 16th trim belt into the finished groove.

View attachment 548172

I like how it turned out here! I initially thought the front side of the model would be on the right, but now... I'm thinking I'll change it to the left... if I don't screw it up Alien

I'll show the result in the next post...
Very sorry to hear about your cut finger ! I hope it heals quickly !
Congratulations on finishing the planking !
Again, your work on this is amazing !
 
Hello Sergey

Your planking has turned out great. I have never had good results using CA glue on wood. When I have used CA it always changed the color of the edges of the glued wood piece. Is there a procedure that you use to prevent this, or is it the type of CA you use. Or it could just be my lack of skills.:)

Bill
 
Very sorry to hear about your cut finger ! I hope it heals quickly !
Congratulations on finishing the planking !
Again, your work on this is amazing !
Thank you very much for your high rating and your attention, it is very nice.
The cut is relatively small and in an awkward location. Although, what convenient place for a cut could there be? :D

Great step by step with why you did the method you used.

Now on to masts and rigging! Cautious
Thanks for your comment. I plan to describe the rigging and masts in great detail, but unfortunately for you, that's not coming anytime soon. I've already laid out my rigging diagram, but for now it's only on paper, but the time will come for that, and it will be interesting. If you have any urgent questions, feel free to ask, and I'll try to answer them.

No cuts to fingers please...finger cots, gloves, repeated handwashing...an anti-healing perfect storm!
Thank you very much. You're in shock. I'm always so careful, but rushing never leads to anything good. But this will teach me a lesson.;)

If there is no blood, you can't say that it's a successful model at work... Just great build.
And that's true. Thank you for the praise.

Hello Sergey

Your planking has turned out great. I have never had good results using CA glue on wood. When I have used CA it always changed the color of the edges of the glued wood piece. Is there a procedure that you use to prevent this, or is it the type of CA you use. Or it could just be my lack of skills.:)

Bill
Thanks for your question. It's not the glue, but the wood! The denser the wood, the less the glue penetrates. Pear, hornbeam, and dara are what I use. If glue gets on these types of wood, you can simply gently scrape it off with a blade and it won't leave a trace. But if you use linden, balsa, or similar soft woods, the glue penetrates deeper. I recommend using pear, apple, or cherry, and hornbeam. Yes, they're very difficult to work with, but they produce much better results than regular wood from an inexpensive kit. You're doing well; it takes practice.
 
Hi Sergey,
Thanks for the reply. Your explanation makes perfect sense. In the past I have been using bass wood that is very porous and using CA changed the color of the wood. I am now using cherry, but I have not used any CA on the cherry yet. I would think that the thickness of the CA could also contribute to the staining.

Bill
 
Well, as promised, here are the results... so far only preliminary, but already satisfactory.

And let's start with my favorite: symmetry.

Alert 1351.jpg

Alert 1352.jpg

Alert 1353.jpg

Alert 1354.jpg

Alert 1355.jpg

Alert 1357.jpg

The front part is almost finished, only polishing remains, but there are some issues with the rear...

Alert 1358.jpg

The sternpost tapers downwards, creating steps with the keel and planking.

And we need to create a profile like this:

Alert 1359.jpg

... done!

Alert 1360.jpg

Well, finally, the rear part of the ship is more or less ready.

Alert 1361.jpg

If you ignore the sanded areas (the light ones), you can already imagine the future appearance after oiling (since the paneling was previously polished and oiled to reveal the grain and color and to ensure uniformity). In the future, I'll polish it all again thoroughly and apply a final coat of tung oil, after nailing, of course.

Alert 1356.jpg

Ship-1
 
I wonder when you'll do something wrong, poorly. So that you can be reminded of it, wrong, wrong, crooked! :rolleyes:
 
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