Thx gents for all your comments.
Following Jim on his fantastic build of his gun carriages I also build one for my copper plated test gun barrel.
First collected all the wood parts. I am going to use all kit parts.
To fit the parts properly in the milled slots I have to adapt the edges with a rounded shape.
All frame parts glued with CA.
The remaining parts and the wheels. The wheels I sand and shape using my proxxon drill.
In the outer surface of the wheel I turned a recess for fitting the wheel bolts.
After rounding the axles I dry fitted the wheels, here you can clearly see the recess area in the wheels.
For drilling the bolt holes I made a template to get the holes at the same distance from the center for every wheel.
Hammering a locking pin for the wheel axle.
Dry fitting the wheels and locking pins.
Painting it with vermillion red ink, a UV resistant water based pigmented ink from Schminke which is new and a test.
Preparing eye bolts from 0,3 mm annealed steel wire. Compared to the kit provided copper eyebolts.
Eye bolts fitted.
Dry fitting my copper plated gun barrel.
Next are fitting some details like the barrel adjustment block which I fitted with a rope loop. The hoops around the axle end which I made from heat shrink. The gun barrel slots.
All ready for action.
You see all these models are build from the same kit but will be different from each other just by your own input, everything is possible.
First collected all the wood parts. I am going to use all kit parts.
To fit the parts properly in the milled slots I have to adapt the edges with a rounded shape.
All frame parts glued with CA.
The remaining parts and the wheels. The wheels I sand and shape using my proxxon drill.
In the outer surface of the wheel I turned a recess for fitting the wheel bolts.
After rounding the axles I dry fitted the wheels, here you can clearly see the recess area in the wheels.
For drilling the bolt holes I made a template to get the holes at the same distance from the center for every wheel.
Hammering a locking pin for the wheel axle.
Dry fitting the wheels and locking pins.
Painting it with vermillion red ink, a UV resistant water based pigmented ink from Schminke which is new and a test.
Preparing eye bolts from 0,3 mm annealed steel wire. Compared to the kit provided copper eyebolts.
Eye bolts fitted.
Dry fitting my copper plated gun barrel.
Next are fitting some details like the barrel adjustment block which I fitted with a rope loop. The hoops around the axle end which I made from heat shrink. The gun barrel slots.
All ready for action.
You see all these models are build from the same kit but will be different from each other just by your own input, everything is possible.
And all are nicely done. Rich
Fantastic canons and great presentation, my friend! One thing I want to add is all the parts are supplied in the kit, and the cannons looking great out of the box!
Thx gents for comments and likes.
The next step is adding the depth markings in the stem and stern. In the stem these are carved on the SB side, on the stern on the PS side.
The markers used are feet carved in roman numerals.
At 1:48 scale every foot is 0,635 mm.
First I measured from the bottom of the stem towards the top and set horizontal lines.
The lower line of the roman numeral is the depth marker, the number is carved above it.
The space between the numerals is the same as the height of the numeral. Between the markers I drew additional lines and between these I drew the numerals. Keep in mind these numerals are perpendicular to the waterline and not the keel. This means they are on a slight angle.
Then with my alibaba micro chisels I carved out the numerals.
The same process to be repeated on the PS side of the stern.
The next step is adding the depth markings in the stem and stern. In the stem these are carved on the SB side, on the stern on the PS side.
The markers used are feet carved in roman numerals.
At 1:48 scale every foot is 0,635 mm.
First I measured from the bottom of the stem towards the top and set horizontal lines.
The lower line of the roman numeral is the depth marker, the number is carved above it.
The space between the numerals is the same as the height of the numeral. Between the markers I drew additional lines and between these I drew the numerals. Keep in mind these numerals are perpendicular to the waterline and not the keel. This means they are on a slight angle.
Then with my alibaba micro chisels I carved out the numerals.
The same process to be repeated on the PS side of the stern.
Very nicely done handwork. RIch
Questa è solo una grande esecuzione, amico mio! Sei un tuttofare e un maestro d'ascia in un unico pacchetto.
I wonder when load markings first appear and where? Shallow harbors and crossings would necessitate such devices in addition to sounding lead lines. Rich
Thanks for the link with the historical background. Wiki is always there but sometimes questions come ahead of my own searching. Rich
We have to be a little bit more precise......
The markings Maarten made are the so called AHMINGS (in german also Tiefgangsmarken) means the water gauge, draft or draught marks, which are measured from the bottom of the keel - mainly they were used also to measure the trim of the ship during the loading - they were helping to define the total number of ballast and the correct locations of the ballast and storage...... These data from the bow and stern, the captains had toi write down in their log-books, before they leave the harbour....... so it was inportant to know and to check....
The waterline or Plimsoll-Marking is slightly different and were introduced as hull markings much later. Ahmings were already used in the middle age
en.wikipedia.org
de.wikipedia.org
The markings Maarten made are the so called AHMINGS (in german also Tiefgangsmarken) means the water gauge, draft or draught marks, which are measured from the bottom of the keel - mainly they were used also to measure the trim of the ship during the loading - they were helping to define the total number of ballast and the correct locations of the ballast and storage...... These data from the bow and stern, the captains had toi write down in their log-books, before they leave the harbour....... so it was inportant to know and to check....
The waterline or Plimsoll-Marking is slightly different and were introduced as hull markings much later. Ahmings were already used in the middle age
Draft (hull) - Wikipedia
Schiffsmaße – Wikipedia
SoS exchanges offer a great way of expanding the brain bucket. Thanks, RichWe have to be a little bit more precise......
The markings Maarten made are the so called AHMINGS (in german also Tiefgangsmarken) means the water gauge, draft or draught marks, which are measured from the bottom of the keel - mainly they were used also to measure the trim of the ship during the loading - they were helping to define the total number of ballast and the correct locations of the ballast and storage...... These data from the bow and stern, the captains had toi write down in their log-books, before they leave the harbour....... so it was inportant to know and to check....
The waterline or Plimsoll-Marking is slightly different and were introduced as hull markings much later. Ahmings were already used in the middle age
Draft (hull) - Wikipedia
Schiffsmaße – Wikipedia
Next to working on our kitchen extension with large oak beams I still found some time to work on the little Alert.
This time the pump well and shot locker.
All the wood parts together.
The first setup, all glued with CA.
For the hinges I dont use kit parts but make these from anealed wire and 0,6 mm seringe needles.
The needle is silver soldered to the hinge
0,4 mm wire fits in the 0,6 mm needle to create a perfect fit for the hinges.
Dry fitting it under the temporary fitted deck beam.
The shot locker I fill with 6 pounder cannon balls, 2 mm to scale. Burnished black ball bearings.
Applied with a layer of shellack.
Next will be the doors.
The reinforcements on the inside as discussed in jim s perfect blog.
Fitting the hinges and door handles.
These simple doors I lock with a simple clamp.
Time to fill the shot locker. I first put some clear glue on a pieces of foam. The foam I push from tge bottom in the shot locker.
Cannon balls on top
And the finished product.
This time the pump well and shot locker.
All the wood parts together.
The first setup, all glued with CA.
For the hinges I dont use kit parts but make these from anealed wire and 0,6 mm seringe needles.
The needle is silver soldered to the hinge
0,4 mm wire fits in the 0,6 mm needle to create a perfect fit for the hinges.
Dry fitting it under the temporary fitted deck beam.
The shot locker I fill with 6 pounder cannon balls, 2 mm to scale. Burnished black ball bearings.
Applied with a layer of shellack.
Next will be the doors.
The reinforcements on the inside as discussed in jim s perfect blog.
Fitting the hinges and door handles.
These simple doors I lock with a simple clamp.
Time to fill the shot locker. I first put some clear glue on a pieces of foam. The foam I push from tge bottom in the shot locker.
Cannon balls on top
And the finished product.
Great accomplishment on the shot locker and pump well, ...and functioning doors. I love the representations of shots (balls) very much. Something to consider for my build as well. Guess what? No...no...not the chicken pax 
I know what I will search for this evening 
I know what I will search for this evening 
I'm embarrassed to claim to be doing the same hobby as you. Your work is an inspiration Maarten! You seem to come up with innovative solutions with every post. I'm learning fast though!
Looking very good - and good ideas 
Thx gents.
Those needles are tough little critters to cut and file smooth at that small size. Great work. RIch
I cut them with pliers and sand them to lenght at my sanding disc after soldering. It goes quite easy.