Hi Radek,
We are very well aware of that and if you read my message well you see I mean this very cynical. For me this is also close to home and it certainly worries all of us.
We are very well aware of that and if you read my message well you see I mean this very cynical. For me this is also close to home and it certainly worries all of us.
You are reading with your emotions @rawen and this is good for all of us to do from time to time. Of course, chisels are of no consequence in the face of war. I'm sorry if my post even hinted at such a thing.
On to the last space on the lower deck which needs some decoration. The boatswain store.
I decided that my ship needed a grinding wheel. At first I wanted to put that in the boatswain store but that seems to be too small.
So it will be placed next to the store room and also easy accesible for the cook with his knives.
First I looked for a suitable 18th century model and this was my choice.
From some lignum vitae I made a grinding stone. From lignum vitae actually sheaves were made on real ship as it is very hard and self lubricating.
Together with some rest material and a 0,4 mm steel wire I made a grinding stone set.
And placed it next to the store room and coal pit.
The store room itself will also be decorated and I used this picture of hms Victory boatswain store as inspiration.
Starting with the tapered barrel. Made it from pear wood, saw the planks with a japanese saw and made hoops from heat shrink.
Colored it with bitumen.
More to come next time.
I decided that my ship needed a grinding wheel. At first I wanted to put that in the boatswain store but that seems to be too small.
So it will be placed next to the store room and also easy accesible for the cook with his knives.
First I looked for a suitable 18th century model and this was my choice.
From some lignum vitae I made a grinding stone. From lignum vitae actually sheaves were made on real ship as it is very hard and self lubricating.
Together with some rest material and a 0,4 mm steel wire I made a grinding stone set.
And placed it next to the store room and coal pit.
The store room itself will also be decorated and I used this picture of hms Victory boatswain store as inspiration.
Starting with the tapered barrel. Made it from pear wood, saw the planks with a japanese saw and made hoops from heat shrink.
Colored it with bitumen.
More to come next time.
Now the lower deck is almost finished I have been walking around inside and made some pictures.
See below an impression of how it is to walk around HMS Alert.
The Boatswain store
In front of the store
Walking inside the sail room
And on to the dry provision
Through the hatch into the hold
The shot locker
Fresh air into the officiers accomodation
With below the powder room
Into the captains quarters
And in the aft peak the bread room
Finally jumping over board and just see the the ship drifting away.
See below an impression of how it is to walk around HMS Alert.
The Boatswain store
In front of the store
Walking inside the sail room
And on to the dry provision
Through the hatch into the hold
The shot locker
Fresh air into the officiers accomodation
With below the powder room
Into the captains quarters
And in the aft peak the bread room
Finally jumping over board and just see the the ship drifting away.
Great new perspective views of your details.
Off course the question has to come - which photo equipment did you use to make this "walk around"?
Off course the question has to come - which photo equipment did you use to make this "walk around"?
Like Kurt did with his Sovereign with a borescope.
Absolutely love it
Thx gent for comments and likes.
The lower deck is now finalized by building a rack and a pin rail with some ropes in the boatswain store. One rope coil I colored with bitumen.
The lower deck is now finalized by building a rack and a pin rail with some ropes in the boatswain store. One rope coil I colored with bitumen.
A lifetime supply of bitumen judea... 
I hope they have some left in JudeaA lifetime supply of bitumen judea...
Extremely nice work Maarten.I had to do a double take with your pictures as they could be that looking at a full size vessel.
I bought an Endoscope from Aldi's middle isle, works great but doubt I can use it for pictures unless I just took a picture of the screen display.I bought it thinking it will come in when doing internal joints inside Saint Philippe and I need to look at something I do not have direct vision of.
Kind Regards
Nigel
I bought an Endoscope from Aldi's middle isle, works great but doubt I can use it for pictures unless I just took a picture of the screen display.I bought it thinking it will come in when doing internal joints inside Saint Philippe and I need to look at something I do not have direct vision of.
Kind Regards
Nigel
THX Nigel, zooming in like this I always see things that need improvement
.The borescope I used here is a professional one I actually use it for technical inspections looking inside large engines etc. One of these is costing something like a mid size luxury car so certainly not for hobby purposes.
The small set ALDI sells are certainly worth the money and for hobby these are perfect.
After finishing the lower part of the ship it is time to start the main deck.
On al the deck beams I measured the center between the notches for the carlings and marked it.
Through the hull I set a centre line with a wire between stem and stern.
Now I finish the deck beams so they nicely line up with the centre line.
Now I will be sure my carlings will follow a straight line and are not all over the place.
After glueing in the beams I put a ruler with a weight on top to glue them in position.
After the deckbeams the horizontal knees are next. All these knees are bolted to the beams and frames.
The stern section knees are almost in.
On al the deck beams I measured the center between the notches for the carlings and marked it.
Through the hull I set a centre line with a wire between stem and stern.
Now I finish the deck beams so they nicely line up with the centre line.
Now I will be sure my carlings will follow a straight line and are not all over the place.
After glueing in the beams I put a ruler with a weight on top to glue them in position.
After the deckbeams the horizontal knees are next. All these knees are bolted to the beams and frames.
The stern section knees are almost in.
Thanks for showing us your way of "centerlining" of the beams
-> very important that later on the carlings and ledges are in a straight line and accurate
But what I realized is, that the knees - laying are visible, but also the notches are indicating, that the hanging knees are relatively slim
The notches for the ledges in the knees have rounded edges (caused by the cnc cut) and you installed them already -> so I guess, that you will sand them afterwards with a square needle file, or?
-> very important that later on the carlings and ledges are in a straight line and accurate
But what I realized is, that the knees - laying are visible, but also the notches are indicating, that the hanging knees are relatively slim
The notches for the ledges in the knees have rounded edges (caused by the cnc cut) and you installed them already -> so I guess, that you will sand them afterwards with a square needle file, or?
Hi Uwe,
Thx for the comment and very well observed.
Yes I will file the notches only when the carlings are fitted. This enables me to fit the ledges also a straight as possible because you have some room for corrections.
The spacings in the carlings are already a proper fit for the ledges.
After fitting the lodging knees I will first sand the beams and knees before fitting the carlings and ledges, the hanging knees I will fit as last.
In the mean time all the lodging knees are fitted.
All fitted with bolts made by anealed wire rounded with a cup burr.
Next is starting with the carlings. The milled spaces are slightly smaller then the width of the carling so this enables you for some fine tuning.
I cut the side a little to fit into the notches.
I use a cutting matt to check the allignment of the carlings to the center line.
To produce lines as straight as possible.
Gradually the carlings fill in their spaces.
All fitted with bolts made by anealed wire rounded with a cup burr.
Next is starting with the carlings. The milled spaces are slightly smaller then the width of the carling so this enables you for some fine tuning.
I cut the side a little to fit into the notches.
I use a cutting matt to check the allignment of the carlings to the center line.
To produce lines as straight as possible.
Gradually the carlings fill in their spaces.
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Thx gents for your comments.
Not too much progress this weekend, alligning all the carlings is taking a lot of time. Secondly I put today a lot of time in my new project for which I am drawing plans at the moment.
As said carlings carlings carlings so most are in at the moment.
Not too much progress this weekend, alligning all the carlings is taking a lot of time. Secondly I put today a lot of time in my new project for which I am drawing plans at the moment.
As said carlings carlings carlings so most are in at the moment.