Hms Alert by Maarten [COMPLETED BUILD]

Thx again for your comments and likes.
Today I am stil working on the thickstuff and shelf clamps.
The last three are placed of which the shelf clamp is the most critical. The SB shelfclamp had its wood grain positioned under and angle causing the strake to brake into pieces when steaming and bending in the bow section.
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I have decided to remove the complete front section and from the remaining wood of this board I made a new part.
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For clamping I use my file set, works perfectly.
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After all thickstuff and shelfclamps are placed it is time for additional fastening.
The thickstuff is treenailed and the upper shelfclamps bolted.
I decided to take 1" treenails or 0,6 mm to scale. This is too small to make these from wood there fore these will be from brass.
Inside the hull I use a very small handdrill. The drilled holes I colour black on the inside with a pencil.
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Then the brass pen is glued inside.
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Then cut off flush, filed and sanded down so a flat treenail with a tiny black circle is the end result.
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This I repeat on all the thickstuff at every frame but the result is an extremely strong hull.
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As mentioned the top deck shelf clamp is bolted to the frames, for this I use 0,6 mm anealed steel wire. This is heat treated and therefore soft like brass wire but it is Iron.
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The rest of the process is the same, drill, glue and cut of. But I dont cut it flush but keep a tiny piece of wire which I finish with a cup burr.
After that I touch them with a cotton swap with some iron burnishing fluid and you have a perfect black bolthead.
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Now the internal structure is fitted I can release the hull from the berth. This was actualy very simple, it just slides out.
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Hopefully tomorrow some time to sand the outside of the hull.
 
I noticed the creative methods being used in build logs of this kit to clamp down the longitudinal inner beams.
A while back I batched out about 40 of these clamps meant for the HMS Enterprise kit (when I eventually get around to it):
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I used 3mm threaded rod as the fastener, it is actually 2.83mm thread:
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Do you know if this size threaded rod will fit between the frames on the Alert or will I need thinner thread?
 
Now the internal structure is fitted I can release the hull from the berth. This was actualy very simple, it just slides out.
Mr. Perfectionist (Mon Amie), did you have to break the tabs CL15 to free up the hull from the jig? I was making an attempt, but those parts clearly holding it tight.

Happy New Year and best wishes to you and your family! Bottle
 
Hi Jim,

Cl 15? it was sliding out of berth easily. I already removed the side support of the stern, the rear supports are still in as I need these in place to fit the template for the upper transome.

с новым годом и фантастическим 2021
 
That is really looking good.
Just out of curiosity are you using rough sand paper then going down to finer grits as you fair across the frames?
There aren't any cross grain sanding marks so I would expect that the last couple of finer grits are up and down the frames with the grain.
I can't explain any other method to get such a first rate finish.
 
That is really looking good.
Just out of curiosity are you using rough sand paper then going down to finer grits as you fair across the frames?
There aren't any cross grain sanding marks so I would expect that the last couple of finer grits are up and down the frames with the grain.
I can't explain any other method to get such a first rate finish.
Thx for all the comments and likes.

Sanding is fitst with 100 grid foam block, files, 100 grid on wood blocks. The I sand it with old sanding blocks and finally steel wool.
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Sanding finished.
 
Time for some scratch building.
On one side I will add the ceiling and planking.
The hull back in its berth and we can start.
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For the extra thickstuf I will use cherry, for the ceiling planks I use basswood. The strakes of extra thickstuff are 1,5 x 5 mm, the ceilingplanks 0,8 x 5 mm. All wood I take from my wood stash and saw them on the saw table.
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After a lot of trimming and fitting the first thickstuf plank fitted. I glue these with CA to speed up the process.
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After the thickstuf time for the ceiling.
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For the treenails of these planks I the seringe methode. Cut of a fine 0,7 mm seringe, sand the top flat and grind it around the edge to get a sharp pointed ring surface.
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Heat the seringe tip and tap it on the wood.
This will give you perfect very fine treenails.
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The first ceiling is finished, second one in progress.
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After some extra time during Christmas and New Year it is now back to normal, that means less time for my hobby so progress wil slow down again.
 
Time for some scratch building.
On one side I will add the ceiling and planking.
The hull back in its berth and we can start.
View attachment 203259.

For the extra thickstuf I will use cherry, for the ceiling planks I use basswood. The strakes of extra thickstuff are 1,5 x 5 mm, the ceilingplanks 0,8 x 5 mm. All wood I take from my wood stash and saw them on the saw table.
View attachment 203265
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After a lot of trimming and fitting the first thickstuf plank fitted. I glue these with CA to speed up the process.
View attachment 203267

After the thickstuf time for the ceiling.
View attachment 203268
View attachment 203269

For the treenails of these planks I the seringe methode. Cut of a fine 0,7 mm seringe, sand the top flat and grind it around the edge to get a sharp pointed ring surface.
View attachment 203270

Heat the seringe tip and tap it on the wood.
This will give you perfect very fine treenails.
View attachment 203271

The first ceiling is finished, second one in progress.
View attachment 203272
View attachment 203273

After some extra time during Christmas and New Year it is now back to normal, that means less time for my hobby so progress wil slow down again.
That ground off and heated syringe needle is a great inspiration for the effect. Well done in consistency with the rest of your build. Rich
 
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