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- Dec 31, 2017
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Thanks.
Two questions: What are footwhales ? Is there any downside to glueing double frames together?
Two questions: What are footwhales ? Is there any downside to glueing double frames together?
Hello Submarineblue,So, Paul, how do you insert the frames in the jig without breaking them? Keep in mind that I have not inserted bolts into every frame, just glued them, which I thought should be more than sufficient.
I inserted Frame 58 for a dry fitting and it went in fine. But when I tried Frame 57 it cracked in 2 places at the joints. I did an experimental fit of frame 42 and sure enough it cracked at both joints. I’ve tried different ways to slip a frame into the jig and they keep cracking at one or both joints. I’ve built POF models with double frames and it was rare for a frame to crack.
Whats the secret? Would soaking the frames in water help or would that just loosen the glue? Is there a special technique to insert a frame into the jig that I’m not aware of?
If the only way to get the frames into the jig is to put bolts into every joint of every frame, then I’m done.
Hello Submarineblue,
In my build, I glue the double-frames together. First, bevel each frame using templates, then dry-fit to make sure they are a good fit against adjacent frames. Then, put glue on one frame and position it into the berth. DO NOT glue to the keel and jig. Once the first frame in place, immediately insert the second frame and clamp both frames together until the glue dry. Alternatively (i use this method), once glue set (about 5 min), I remove both frames, set them on the glass, and tight using the bar clamps, until it is completely dry.
Your 'cracking' frames should alarm you. Most likely either scarf plain joint and\or chock hogs have gaps and weaken the joints. Or, it is a possibility of bad (an old) glue. Do not proceed further gluing frames until you inspect all frames for tight joints. You can try breaking each frame (reasonably, without too much force), the same way you would do in the berth, to find out the weak ones. It is better to fix them now than regret later, when G.....d forbid it breaks when you will sand (inside\outside). Going a bit ahead, you will need some pressure on frames when installing the so-called 'Thick timbers' and Limber strakes, as @paulv1958 mentioned in the above posts. NO NEED to put bolts into the frames, we do it as per our acceptance level and taste. Glue should hold very tight. What glue are you using?
I use the same technique as Paul and Dan when inserting frames. Also, I push them thru the berth notches, from the top, but you must widen the notches a bit. Don't do it too much, they have to hold the frame.
I don’t know if I already posted these on SOS, but here are a few pics. I think I did post them for La Belle. The administrators may move them to another sub-forum. A couple of them are in cases and I can’t find pics that I took before I put them in. Here are Oneida and La Belle. I also included the Shipyard version of Alert. I may have already posted these on SOS. I’ll take some pics of Rattlesnake and Halifax.@Submarinerblue, you mention that you built the Harold Hahn models, (Oneida, Rattlesnake).
Are there pictures here on SOS, if you have pictures I am very interested in seeing these ships.
Sorry to break me into your log Paulv.
Absolutely no worries! Remember, we are here to help, and the 'group build' all about helping each other.I’ii keep at it but you may need to talk me off the ledge again at some point.
Trident said that he was going to supply complete instructions for the cabins some time ago, but we still haven’t seen them.The Tident Alert is a a finicky beast. I have made LOTS of mistakes so far and felt the same sometimes. I strongly suggest you wait ill I have finished the cabin work to see how it goes in.The more I explore, the more i have to rethink the install order. As there is NO official instructions so far and a lot of the original document does not cater for it, I'm in scratch model and doggy paddling very hard! .
I have completed all the sub assemblies and test fitted most of the parts. (They need a fair amount of adjustment). The strip wood IS floor and I have decided to do a 1/2 width floor on the lower deck. I just have to plan the access way hole positions. The diagrams provided in the thread on hull install are not accurate and can only be used as a rough guide. Once I have laid the floor, I will "Create" some instructions, but I think that these will vary on Modeller choice.
As the AL kit was designed for open viewing, I suggest you plan window frames for the viewing area to rtenthen the hull. The supplied interior will have to be 'spruced' up quite a bit as it is vary basic( The doors are only laser etch on one side and based entirely on the line images in the AOS book. Every door is also a different size!
I'm not saying my way will be the best as I'm fumbling round in the dark, but at least you will have an idea of what to expect. I'm no Wang so mine will be an as supplied "PV build aroo". At least you get to see it as supplied. You can then decide which way you want to go.
Don't give up, you've done AL kits so your 3/4 certified problem solver.( If you do a Panart, your 100%).
I will not be much longer on it( hah) so you can then decide. Besides I really weant to see how you handle the open frame! on it.
Say well & safe
Paul
Drop a PM to Trident about any parts you have errored on and he has offer to send replacements ASAP, not sure of cost. May be easier they trying to make your self.I’ve had some success with the middle frames. I was still not able to get most of the single frames I tried to fit without breaking. But, I found if I glued the double frames together first they fit perfectly with no problem. Since, as I mentioned earlier, I plan to leave many frames on one side off in order to better see the berth deck and cabins, this should be Ok. This is what another member did on his 1/30 scale Alert and what I did in my Artenisia Latina Bounty.
I will either plank the other side or put in frames that just go from the keel on up. No problem then with breaking frames.
I also need to come up with a creative solution to fix some of the mistakes I made in the cant frames.
I know that I can probably fix everything with enough effort. I just don’t know if I’m enjoying this kit enough to keep working on it. Or for how long
I‘ll see how I feel when I get to the next problem issue.
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