HMS ENTERPRISE 1774 by RichardJJS 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D

[GIG1810]

Hey Richard,
very nice built....I am very interesting.
Cheers Günther

 

[richardjjs]

Defiantly thing ive cut too much away on Bow (New part being sent by Victor)
Stern maybe OK
Will strip the G parts and sand down the top of the sterna bit to match the POst
Thanks

 

[richardjjs]

Going really well till I fitted the Keel and found it too long
About 5mm of the stern part of the keel

 

[Corsair]

Going really well till I fitted the Keel and found it too long
About 5mm of the stern part of the keel

View attachment 532350

Step 15 you add the stern post. It doesn't look like you've added it yet.

 

[Keef]

Step 15 you add the stern post. It doesn't look like you've added it yet.

I think you'll find that picture is from my build. I don't know why Richard is showing this?

 

[richardjjs]

Slowly getting on with the build
2 Frames cleaned and ready to drop into keel Will NOT glue till all are straight frames donn

I think you'll find that picture is from my build. I don't know why Richard is showing this?

Because i was askng a question as to why its too long and your picture showed it best

 

[richardjjs]

@richardjjs you never answered my question to you on Keef's thread of which glue you are using other than "titebond".
Depending on the glue, there are different ways of "debonding" the glue so you can take it apart without much damage to the parts.

Still having problems with earlier Frames i built with Titebond Rather than Titebound Ultimate
FRames 8 - 12 "Seem" ok
Its a pain when the glue gives as you are sanding down
Did start using Keef's idea of adding a Chock and then the next Futtock

And bought a decent Heat Gun with digital temperature after i burnt a futtock a bit

 

[richardjjs]

Hi Richard, back again.
Once the A side has completely dried (overnight preferably) You can make up the B side in the same way. As all 3 parts are the same thickness (7 mm), I found the floor timber section with the cross chock can be glued on a flat surface, held with finger pressure for a minute or so and let dry for about 15 mins. After this time the assembly should be strong enough to move, so very carefully transfer the assembly onto the drawing and check the angles are correct, you can adjust slightly if needed so that it fits perfectly over the plan. You can add the first chocks on either side at this point as well. Let the parts dry for 45 mins or so, then glue and add the second futtock being careful not to move the parts on the drawing. The top timbers with the scarf joints are both the same thickness so these can be glued together away from the rest, on a flat surface, held together with finger pressure for a minute or so and carefully placed over its position on the drawing to check it fits perfectly with the plan. After 15 mins or so this can the be glued to the rest of the frame, after checking the step up or down and using the spacers as required. Leave the assembly to completely dry. While you're doing all this you can be squaring the chocks at the futtock joint/s as shown in step 21 of the manual and locating and cleaning the parts for the next frame, ready to do the whole thing all over again . . . and again

THis really works thank you
Since ive used this method and Titebond Ultimate it all seems to be sticking

 

[Schiffsmodellbauer]

Lordy Lord, what skills you have. I am profoundly impressed. I've got a long way to go before I can get your skills and patience. Currently doing my first HMS Endeavor by OcCre. I will try to finish it by December, as I am a very oldie.