• LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
    **VIEW THREAD HERE**

HMS ENTERPRISE 1774 by RichardJJS 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D

Defiantly thing ive cut too much away on Bow (New part being sent by Victor)
Stern maybe OK
Will strip the G parts and sand down the top of the sterna bit to match the POst
Thanks
 
Slowly getting on with the build
2 Frames cleaned and ready to drop into keel Will NOT glue till all are straight frames done
Its been a steep learning curve

Built the first few frames but they dropped apart (And have been doing till now(Hopefully)
Keef said to build each frame in sections
So build the one with the long Scarf at the bottom make sure its well glued and setting and move onto plan
Then add the Joints and wait for it to set
Use 1mm fillers to lift the Futtock where necessary
Some actually have flat Fronts (Backs) and in a couple of cased the Front Top Futtock sticks Out to match the Gun POrt
Then the Futtock working up slowly using Titebond Ultimate
Plan need Sellotape over where the joints are to stop the glue sticking
I found building on a thick Cork Tile Helped with Pins but that was me
Then the second Frame

When its all set clean up the joints and cut the upper part to match the futtock
Then get the two back parts clean and fix together

The First 5 Frames need large amounts of wood removed and i used a Rotating Sander to get it down approx
Then A drill with a sanding disc
To get it close
People are saying the use very fine sandpaper to get it smooth But the builders would have used an Adze to cut it an I dont beleive it would be mark Free
MORE FOLLOWS


frames 2 and 4.jpg
Keef said:
I think you'll find that picture is from my build. I don't know why Richard is showing this?
Click to expand...
Because i was asking a question as to why its too long and your picture showed it best
 
Last edited:
Corsair said:
@richardjjs you never answered my question to you on Keef's thread of which glue you are using other than "titebond".
Depending on the glue, there are different ways of "debonding" the glue so you can take it apart without much damage to the parts.
Click to expand...
Still having problems with earlier Frames i built with Titebond Rather than Titebound Ultimate
FRames 8 - 12 "Seem" ok
Its a pain when the glue gives as you are sanding down
Did start using Keef's idea of adding a Chock and then the next Futtock

And bought a decent Heat Gun with digital temperature after i burnt a futtock a bit
 
Keef said:
Hi Richard, back again.
Once the A side has completely dried (overnight preferably) You can make up the B side in the same way. As all 3 parts are the same thickness (7 mm), I found the floor timber section with the cross chock can be glued on a flat surface, held with finger pressure for a minute or so and let dry for about 15 mins. After this time the assembly should be strong enough to move, so very carefully transfer the assembly onto the drawing and check the angles are correct, you can adjust slightly if needed so that it fits perfectly over the plan. You can add the first chocks on either side at this point as well. Let the parts dry for 45 mins or so, then glue and add the second futtock being careful not to move the parts on the drawing. The top timbers with the scarf joints are both the same thickness so these can be glued together away from the rest, on a flat surface, held together with finger pressure for a minute or so and carefully placed over its position on the drawing to check it fits perfectly with the plan. After 15 mins or so this can the be glued to the rest of the frame, after checking the step up or down and using the spacers as required. Leave the assembly to completely dry. While you're doing all this you can be squaring the chocks at the futtock joint/s as shown in step 21 of the manual and locating and cleaning the parts for the next frame, ready to do the whole thing all over again . . . and again :)
Click to expand...
THis really works thank you
Since ive used this method and Titebond Ultimate it all seems to be sticking
 
Lordy Lord, what skills you have. I am profoundly impressed. I've got a long way to go before I can get your skills and patience. Currently doing my first HMS Endeavor by OcCre. I will try to finish it by December, as I am a very oldie.
 
Schiffsmodellbauer said:
Lordy Lord, what skills you have. I am profoundly impressed. I've got a long way to go before I can get your skills and patience. Currently doing my first HMS Endeavor by OcCre. I will try to finish it by December, as I am a very oldie.
Click to expand...
dont rush anything - just take your time
 
Corsair said:
Step 15 you add the stern post. It doesn't look like you've added it yet. :)
Click to expand...
it is keefs build - but i needed to find i was right so posted his build _
Though that help was what this forum was all about - not wishing happy birthday or posting irrelevant details
Sorry if i Offended
But i need serious advise
Ive cut the Keel to length so it fits the plan and Jig BUT the Plan does warn of Minor DEviations
 
POsted something about the Keel but cant fin d it
This was posted by a colleague Thank you
Keel Top View with Stern POst and Knee of the Head
It goes from 12" to 13.5" midships to 10" At Stern
It shows the keel narrows towards to stern - I guess the Stern DEadwood
And at Knee
Useful but is anyone doing it
THANKS
 

Attachments

richardjjs said:
Slowly getting on with the build
2 Frames cleaned and ready to drop into keel Will NOT glue till all are straight frames done
Its been a steep learning curve

Built the first few frames but they dropped apart (And have been doing till now(Hopefully)
Keef said to build each frame in sections
So build the one with the long Scarf at the bottom make sure its well glued and setting and move onto plan
Then add the Joints and wait for it to set
Use 1mm fillers to lift the Futtock where necessary
Some actually have flat Fronts (Backs) and in a couple of cased the Front Top Futtock sticks Out to match the Gun POrt
Then the Futtock working up slowly using Titebond Ultimate
Plan need Sellotape over where the joints are to stop the glue sticking
I found building on a thick Cork Tile Helped with Pins but that was me
Then the second Frame

When its all set clean up the joints and cut the upper part to match the futtock
Then get the two back parts clean and fix together

The First 5 Frames need large amounts of wood removed and i used a Rotating Sander to get it down approx
Then A drill with a sanding disc
To get it close
People are saying the use very fine sandpaper to get it smooth But the builders would have used an Adze to cut it an I dont beleive it would be mark Free
MORE FOLLOWS


View attachment 532755

Because i was asking a question as to why its too long and your picture showed it best
Click to expand...
Tools I used for SAnding IMG_20250719_154016.jpg

IMG_20250719_154003.jpg
 
richardjjs said:
POsted something about the Keel but cant fin d it
This was posted by a colleague Thank you
Keel Top View with Stern POst and Knee of the Head
It goes from 12" to 13.5" midships to 10" At Stern
It shows the keel narrows towards to stern - I guess the Stern DEadwood
And at Knee
Useful but is anyone doing it
THANKS
Click to expand...
No. I'm not. I don't see the point personally
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top