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HMS ENTERPRISE 1774 by RichardJJS 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D

richardjjs said:
a lot of the frame sections are totally different as well I think you will need to stain the outside edge before gluing
I stained my blandford and ruined it as it was complely uneven
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The beeswax/turpentine finish works quite well and blends fine, even allowing extra coats on lighter wood to get closer to match.
That said, mandatory to avoid finish where glue joints are needed.

Tim
 
richardjjs said:
is the beeswax liquid - turpentine rather that tubs subs ??
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Have zero idea what tubs subs is.
Beeswax is wax, i.e.solid.
Buy food grade beeswax pellets and dissolve them in distilled turpentine.
The turpentine evaporates off and then you can buff if you wish.

Tim
 
Don't use food-grade or household beeswax! It's so acidic that it will damage the surface over time. Look for special wax for restorers and artists in the varnish and paint section of art supply stores.
 
I recommend the microcrystalline wax "Cosmoloid H-80" from Kremer, Germany. This wax penetrates deeply into the wood and preserves it. It polishes easily. Preserves wood, metal, plastic, and other materials with wax impregnation. Keep in mind that nothing can be glued to a waxed surface. Therefore, before waxing, cover the areas of the model where parts will be glued.
Prepare a solution: 20 g of "Cosmoloid X-80" per 1 liter of clean gasoline. Apply the solution with a brush, swab, or immerse the part in it. After the gasoline evaporates, a thin film remains. This can be heated under a table lamp until it shines and then rubbed with a rag until glossy.
Wax is completely neutral to wood and metal, creating a durable film that is water- and dust-repellent. Keep in mind that nothing can be glued to a waxed surface. Therefore, before waxing, mask off any areas of the model where parts will be glued.

I also recommend MinWax Dark Wax Polish, 454g Manufacturer: MinWax, USA. Shelf life: 8 years. This dark wax polish, based on artificial wax, protects wood surfaces from water and mechanical damage, creates an antistatic coating, and imparts a matte shine to treated items. Regular application of this product helps keep wood surfaces clean and maintain their shine. Can be used on any treated surface, both old and new.

Liquid wax is also sold in restoration stores, and the selection is quite extensive. But, in fact, you can make this mixture yourself using the waxes I just described.
 
iutar said:
Don't use food-grade or household beeswax! It's so acidic
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What is the pH of your household beeswax? Unless something else such as castor oil or olive oil or stearic acid, is added, the pH will be close to 7. Wood typically is more acid with a PH of 4 to 6 so beeswax, household or otherwise should be fine. Never a bad idea to check the ingredient label to be sure about additives, though, natural or otherwise to be sure it is not going to problematic.

Allan
 
iutar said:
I recommend the microcrystalline wax "Cosmoloid H-80" from Kremer, Germany. This wax penetrates deeply into the wood and preserves it. It polishes easily. Preserves wood, metal, plastic, and other materials with wax impregnation. Keep in mind that nothing can be glued to a waxed surface. Therefore, before waxing, cover the areas of the model where parts will be glued.
Prepare a solution: 20 g of "Cosmoloid X-80" per 1 liter of clean gasoline. Apply the solution with a brush, swab, or immerse the part in it. After the gasoline evaporates, a thin film remains. This can be heated under a table lamp until it shines and then rubbed with a rag until glossy.
Wax is completely neutral to wood and metal, creating a durable film that is water- and dust-repellent. Keep in mind that nothing can be glued to a waxed surface. Therefore, before waxing, mask off any areas of the model where parts will be glued.

I also recommend MinWax Dark Wax Polish, 454g Manufacturer: MinWax, USA. Shelf life: 8 years. This dark wax polish, based on artificial wax, protects wood surfaces from water and mechanical damage, creates an antistatic coating, and imparts a matte shine to treated items. Regular application of this product helps keep wood surfaces clean and maintain their shine. Can be used on any treated surface, both old and new.

Liquid wax is also sold in restoration stores, and the selection is quite extensive. But, in fact, you can make this mixture yourself using the waxes I just described.
Click to expand...
Last thing I want is to work with gasoline. The turpentine evaporates off, gasoline, does not.Also, the H-80 has no color….IMHO unsuitable for my project. Not looking for only preservation, I want preservation with a color componant.
FWIW all beeswax has some acidity yet it has been used literally for hundreds of years. Mine is fairly low as far as acid. I want the additional benefit of having some alteration of natural wood depending on coats which additionally blend seamlessly.
Lastly, any type of traditional “ polish”, I cannot imagine how you could evenly apply it to all of the fragile inner structures evenly, not building a canoe here.
That said, in light of current questions…..folks, you need to finish wood in incremental steps when the addition of structure will eliminate future access, avoiding glue locations.
FWIW this is the exact process some folks I follow who build museum level projects. Ultimately, whatever floats your boat
 
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While I am waiting for my New Hawse pieces I decided to Clean and attach the Inner Planking - although its more of the supports
Getting them to stick to the Inner Frames has been a nightmare
Using 3M Tape seems to be good
Have marked to position with the Jig Pieces (One Shown)
Once 2,5, 8 have dried i will check the Jig again

And Add more info

The Upper deck Spirketting Is what the deck planking goes into on the side of the ship
(Hopefully i can get Done bu this time NEXTYEAR


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IMG_20251017_193333.jpg
 
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TRS7139 said:
Last thing I want is to work with gasoline. The turpentine evaporates off, gasoline, does not.Also, the H-80 has no color….IMHO unsuitable for my project. Not looking for only preservation, I want preservation with a color componant.
FWIW all beeswax has some acidity yet it has been used literally for hundreds of years. Mine is fairly low as far as acid. I want the additional benefit of having some alteration of natural wood depending on coats which additionally blend seamlessly.
That said, in light of current questions…..folks, you need to finish wood in incremental steps when the addition of structure will eliminate future access, avoiding glue locations.
FWIW this is the exact process some folks I follow who build museum level projects. Ultimately, whatever floats your boat
Click to expand...
Hope we dont nedd to float this BOAT !!
Thanks
 
The jig fixtures to locate the position of the deck clamps, limbers and such is ingenious. Maybe it has been around for some time, but a first for me and it will be remembered.
Allan
 
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