- Joined
- Jan 10, 2022
- Messages
- 725
- Points
- 403
Thank you Grant. Sorry not got round to peeking into your build log. Will remedy that later today. Hope all is going well
NP Keith. I have not contributed much lately.
Are you going to install the optional nails at the keel joints? Or have you already?
When making up my false keel I made stepped scarf joints. Only took about 15 or 20 minutes to make up with an x-acto knife and a file. As you can see though I installed them upside down. As an old friend once told me; “a dumb man won’t notice and a smart man won’t tell”.Thank you Jeff. As is yours. Have you decided how you are going to prepare your false keel joints. I'm just making a 45 degree scarf at each joint for ease. After sanding nobody is going to see it. I build for pleasure and not worried about 100% historical accuracy, as long as l think it looks OK
Also does anyone out there know of an easy way to remove the laser char from all those hundreds of parts and pieces? Besides old fashioned elbow grease I mean.
Easy is probably not best.
I just do careful hand sanding. I'm afraid that with any other method I would take too much off.It goes pretty fast with 100 grit foam sanding sticks with a plus being you can easily see if you’re sanding flat. The chocks, I lightly touch on the disc sander, keeps all surfaces pristine. All frames, when built get hit with spindle sander, very quick.
Kakistocracy,
I had to look that one up. Way too much truth in that.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2022
- Messages
- 725
- Points
- 403
Looks very good though
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2022
- Messages
- 725
- Points
- 403
No l don't think so. Although not decided yet. Are you?Are you going to install the optional nails at the keel joints? Or have you already?
nobody asked
but I did, again pretty easy with copper wire and medium instant glue.Heat the wire first to aneal it then glue it in. This way when dry, very easy to file down flush.
yes, I think so.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2022
- Messages
- 725
- Points
- 403
I have now decided that l will include the nails but will tackle some of the ribs first and dry fit them to the keel to see how they fit. I have found all the pieces for number 7 which l have decided to do first, not for any specific reason other than it is a full height frame without gun port and have started to clean the mating surfaces and assemble. Photos to follow tomorrow. Not too difficult as long as you keep an eye on the futtock step downs. l think it would be good to establish a routine of locating the parts in order of the board thicknesses
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2022
- Messages
- 725
- Points
- 403
Careful sanding is the only way. I know a lot of people find this a chore but I myself don't mind it. It's a necessary part of the hobby
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Some on the forum has shown good results with using airbrush eraser material, a fine blast grit. You need to buy one of the special blast units designed for this process, not to much more than standard air brush, and photos show good results with no loss of wood base underneath.
If the bow is to the left, it is right side up
Why have scarphs with lips rather than simple sliding joints? Sort of defeats the purpose of having a false keel where the piece that hits bottom and tears away can then jam because of the lip and tear out the adjacent piece aft of it. I never had thought about this until reading about these joints in The Fully Framed Model Volume 1, on page 30 many moons ago, but it makes sense. Thx
Allan
Here is what I stumbled onto that was a pleasant surprise. Since I do a fair amount of other modeling I used this on a couple test pieces and it works nicely, started to cut rabet and it goes very well using light passes until it deepens a bit. Hooked end removes wood cleanly.
Also here the big step of making the first frame. Yours is also looking very promising, Keef.
Regards, Peter
She is looking wonderful !