HMS GRANADO 1:48 scale PoF CAF Model by Keith

[Uwek]

Very good work - you are on a very good way my friend
frame 27: I checked my internal photos, but did not made extra photos of my frame production, but maybe some photos of the frames sitting in the jig can help, that you see how the frame is looking - I remember with the triple frames, that I first made a sandwich and added the third layer afterwards - but it already some 22 months ago - time is running extremely fast

HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe

Nice work Uwe! The stern is tricky - Do as myself and Uwe have done - slow and steady, and lots of offering up the transoms and frames to find out where to cut next! Ted

shipsofscale.com

 

[Keef]

Very good work - you are on a very good way my friend
frame 27: I checked my internal photos, but did not made extra photos of my frame production, but maybe some photos of the frames sitting in the jig can help, that you see how the frame is looking - I remember with the triple frames, that I first made a sandwich and added the third layer afterwards - but it already some 22 months ago - time is running extremely fast

HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe

Nice work Uwe! The stern is tricky - Do as myself and Uwe have done - slow and steady, and lots of offering up the transoms and frames to find out where to cut next! Ted

shipsofscale.com

Thank you very much Uwe for your kind words. I think l understand the building method for the construction of the ribs. The problem is in the numbering of 2 or 3 of the parts. l will take some photos to explain better. It seems to only be with rib parts 27 a2, 3, 4 and c2, 3, 4. l will take a fresh look at it in the morning. lt may be something quite obvious

 

[Uwek]

Just found one photo - I made some markings on the sideview with the numbers of the individual parts.
With this I tried to clarify for myself how the frames were constructed - here f.e. frame #17
With this I also decided for myself, which a, b or c parts should lay on the table and which one above

 

[profmomo]

Bonjour Uwek. Merci pour ces informations. Elles me serviront beaucoup lorsque j'aurai reçu mon KIT. Bonne semaine.

Hello Uwek. Thanks for these informations. They will be very useful to me when I receive my KIT. Good week.

 

[Keef]

Just found one photo - I made some markings on the sideview with the numbers of the individual parts.
With this I tried to clarify for myself how the frames were constructed - here f.e. frame #17
With this I also decided for myself, which a, b or c parts should lay on the table and which one above

View attachment 427361

Thanks for that Uwe. l am sure l've got the method right in my head. l have continued with a couple of frames successfully . l will return later to rib 27. A couple of the parts on the illustration for making up this triple rib do not match the numbers on the parts list at the back of the manual

 

[Keef]

Hi All. Not a lot to show, but l have made a start on the rest of of the frames, skipping 27 for the moment. There a 3 types of frame construction that make up the hull of this ship, single, double and triple. All three are demonstrated here and two are cleaned up, adjusted and fitted onto the keel. l found it extremely difficult to manipulate the frames to fit into their slot in the cradle. l would be interested to know if anybody else who has built this kit has had the same trouble. Maybe l am missing a simple method and making an unnecessarily hard job of it. The triple frames contain the sweep ports and CAF have utilsed these, together with square cutouts in the cradle and a length of 4x4mm wood strip going though them as a method of determining the level of the frames. An excellent idea as we have come to expect from this well designed kit. Well done Tom

 

[BradNSW]

Outstanding documentation and construction of the 3 different frames!

Looks like a very nice kit and the build quality of your work has me watching with keen interest on you techniques and progress.

Thanks for sharing!

 

[Keef]

Outstanding documentation and construction of the 3 different frames!

Looks like a very nice kit and the build quality of your work has me watching with keen interest on you techniques and progress.

Thanks for sharing!

Thank you very much for your interest and kind words Brad. I am really happy you are following my log. Great to have you on board

 

[profmomo]

Bonsoir Keef. C'est normal que les couples au niveau de C11 n'entrent pas dans leur créneaux?
Beau travail.

Good evening Keef. Is it normal that couples at the C11 level do not fit into their niches?
Nice work.

 

[Cathber]

@Keef, Si cela peut vous aidez dans votre réflexion pour le cadre 27, sur 'La Belle' Tom de CAF a utiliser la même méthode de numérotation que celle décrit par @Uwek dans le message #63. Sur 'La Belle' il y a un couple en 3 parties (A, B, C). A était vers l'avant du bateau, B au milieu, C vers l'arrière du bateau. Il a certainement également utilisé cette méthode sur le Granado. A vérifier sur votre modèle...
@Keef, If it helps in your thinking for frame 27, on 'La Belle' Tom from CAF used the same numbering method as described by @Uwek in post #63. On 'La Belle' there is a couple in 3 parts (A, B, C). A was towards the front of the boat, B in the middle, C towards the back of the boat. He certainly used this method on the Granado as well. To check on your model...

 

[Uwek]

.... l would be interested to know if anybody else who has built this kit has had the same trouble. ......

Do you mean the notches on the different layers of the jig? Yes, there some mycrometer too small in the width so you have to sand them slightly - I did this on some locations, but mainly it is the lower level - do not do it too early you will see that most of the problems will be solved somehow by themself

Take a look at my different phases and working steps - step by step the frames are fitting better

Bonsoir Keef. C'est normal que les couples au niveau de C11 n'entrent pas dans leur créneaux?
Beau travail.

Good evening Keef. Is it normal that couples at the C11 level do not fit into their niches?
Nice work.

what you see is not so much that they are not fitting - red is the frame, black the jig with notch, brown is the gap what you mainly see - compare also with my two photos above



Everything is fine ........

 

[profmomo]

Hi Eweek, many thinks. I understand better now. Regards

 

[Keef]

Do you mean the notches on the different layers of the jig? Yes, there some mycrometer too small in the width so you have to sand them slightly - I did this on some locations, but mainly it is the lower level - do not do it too early you will see that most of the problems will be solved somehow by themself

Take a look at my different phases and working steps - step by step the frames are fitting better

View attachment 428246

View attachment 428248


what you see is not so much that they are not fitting - red is the frame, black the jig with notch, brown is the gap what you mainly see - compare also with my two photos above

View attachment 428249

Everything is fine ........

Thanks very much Uwe. Yes l see where the problem is now. Obvious when you think about it

 

[profmomo]

Merci Uwek, Merci Keef. Je suis toujours dans l'attente du colis. Apparement ils ne l'ont pas expédié avant le Nouvel An Chinois. Tant pis, j'attends. Pendant ce temps je consulte vos excellents articles.

Thanks Uwek, Thanks Keef. I'm still waiting for the package. Apparently they didn't ship it until Chinese New Year. Too bad, I'm waiting. In the meantime I'm reading your excellent articles.

 

[Keef]

Merci Uwek, Merci Keef. Je suis toujours dans l'attente du colis. Apparement ils ne l'ont pas expédié avant le Nouvel An Chinois. Tant pis, j'attends. Pendant ce temps je consulte vos excellents articles.

Thank you for your interest. I'm sure Uwe would agree also. I can understand your eagerness waiting for your package to arrive. The same thing happened to me when I ordered my previous kit from China. It took nearly 4 weeks, but it will soon be delivered and you will be very happy I'm sure

 

[profmomo]

Thank you Keef. I receive my N°2 one week after. 4 weeks is not abnormal. I still waiting . During this time I works in N°2 box.
Have a very good Sundy. Sorry for my bad English.

 

[Keef]

Thank you Keef. I receive my N°2 one week after. 4 weeks is not abnormal. I still waiting . During this time I works in N°2 box.
Have a very good Sundy. Sorry for my bad English.

Please do not apologise for your 'bad' English mon ami. It's a lot better than my schoolboy French

 

[profmomo]

Thanks!

 

[Keef]

Hi All. Thank you for your continued interest in this log. At this stage l thought l should document the procedure of making up a rib/frame. In this case No. 18, a double frame. Each triple and double frame consists of 5 mm, 4 mm and 3 mm segments, reducing the thickness of the frame as it rises up from the keel. Once the pieces have all been identified and removed from their corresponding sheet, a little cleaning up is necessary, especially at the butting surfaces where the laser char must be removed. The 2 sides to every double frame are numbered a1 to a4 and a b1 to b3. When fixing to the keel, the A side always faces the bow. Starting with the B side, the pieces are placed over the 1:1 scale drawing for the respective frame you are constructing, outer face downward. l put a couple of tiny drops of paper glue on the first segments to stop any movement as the frame is built up. Where the sections are stepped down i.e 5mm to 4mm and 4mm to 3mm, the kit supplies 1mm and 2mm spacer strips to slip underneath giving them support as the glue dries. The A side can then be made up, as each segment is placed directly over the top of side B, this time with the outer face facing uppermost. When the glue is completely dry, the frame is 'faired' using the inscribed laser lines on A and B sides, which will also remove all the laser char on the inner and outer faces of the frame. The mid ship frames require little or no fairing to actually shape the frame to the curves of the hull, just laser char removal, but as you get closer to the bow and stern, more fairing is required to achieve the hull's beautiful lines.

 

[profmomo]

Hi Keef, thank you for this explanations .