HMS GRANADO (1742) - midship section - POF by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe

[Jimsky]

Hello, Mon Amie. It does look not as much complicated as challenging projects assembling frames. You have to 100% understand what goes to where. So, in recap...let see if I get it. A single paper template provides a layout for both components of the given frame 'A' and 'B', correct? Where you align 'A' as red color marks (outside), and 'B' black color lines the inside positioning.
I guess once you figure out the first frame, it should be much easy to work on the rest of the frames. but for now, it is a bit confusing (at least to me).

 

[Gennaro]

Looking good. Just wondering if instructions call for beveled chocks.

 

[Uwek]

Looking good. Just wondering if instructions call for beveled chocks.

Yes - the manual is asking for bevelling the chocks, but I am not making it - it is really hard to make this really working (on chocks and frame elements) with no gaps.....

 

[shota70]

Dear Uwek
it's looks beautiful beginning of impressive project, I will keep following with great curiosity

 

[wmgrimball]

I am finishing the midship section of the USS CONSTITUTION, and it is interesting to see how much special reinforcement went into the support for the mortar. The pictures are very well done.

 

[Uwek]

Today some photos of the jig which is part of the section kit.

The very special way to make the jig in plexi-glass - and as I know the first time that such a material is used for a model kit.
In principle I see some advantages towards wood, especially for a section model.
The way CAF prepared the jig, with removable (fixed by screws in resin connectors can be (and is) very helpful. I am very happ, that Tom took over my advise to make the sides removable....



Here some impressions of the plexi-glass jig

The printed resin connecting elements









The time will show how practibel is this way - definitely not only nice to look at, but also the frames prepared with their gaps and distances between the top timbers are fitting extremely good into the jig.

Short remark: Do not forget to remove the protection folio off the plexi-glass !!!

 

[Gennaro]

Today some photos of the jig which is part of the section kit.

The very special way to make the jig in plexi-glass - and as I know the first time that such a material is used for a model kit.
In principle I see some advantages towards wood, especially for a section model.
The way CAF prepared the jig, with removable (fixed by screws in resin connectors can be (and is) very helpful. I am very happ, that Tom took over my advise to make the sides removable....

View attachment 273717 View attachment 273718

Here some impressions of the plexi-glass jig

The printed resin connecting elements

View attachment 273709 View attachment 273710

View attachment 273711 View attachment 273712

View attachment 273713 View attachment 273714

View attachment 273715

The time will show how practibel is this way - definitely not only nice to look at, but also the frames prepared with their gaps and distances between the top timbers are fitting extremely good into the jig.

Short remark: Do not forget to remove the protection folio off the plexi-glass !!!

That certainly is a fancy jig.

 

[Uwek]

Some more photos of making the frames, all with the same principles.... but be aware, that you do not switch of the brain, because the details are different and with this every frame is different - some more photos you will find my personal "switch off"







upps - here it happened - maybe you can find the error in the following photo?







in average I neede appr. 2 hours for one frame - nice to see the "section-hull" growing









still I did not realize my error until this status - only one frame missing







after removing the resin element

 

[Uwek]

Too late I realized a mistake in the installation of one top timber - the notch of the marked one should be towards the other direction.



Some times, f.e when such a mistake happened, it is good, that I use water based wood glue. After 10 minutes watering of the joint I was able to open the joint without any damage



Here now all prepared frames in correctw ay inside the jig







Here the excerpt from the Anatomy of Ships book showing the principles of the framing with keel, keelson, mortar beam shelf, clamps etc.
Also visible are the chocks with all the bolting / nailing





The steps in the chocks at the places when the width of the frame elements is adjusted is also shown in the manual



so this work was the next step to do

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Great work on the frames, and nice to see and hear that even the master builder makes and finds their mistakes.

Best is that you tell us so we know what not to do, as I have this kit on the shelf and hope I can work as good as yours shows, and not make mistakes, by following your build log I will know what and where to watch for.

 

[Uwek]

So the chocks or anchor pieces are prepared and sanded, so the next working step was the treenailing of the connecting and the frame elements

Let us take first a look at the Goodwin sketch in his famous book



Here the chock nailing is very simlified, but we get a relatively good impression of the boltings of a double frame

so once more the Anatomy book sketch



Here every chock is connected with four bolts towards a frame element - so all together 8 bolts

Here the first trail - the nails are sanded down already flat to the wooden surface



I am using for the immitation of the frame bolts my usual coppernails with 0,6mm diameter



Looking good and satisfied test - so step by step I made the nailing on one side of the inner side of the frames. The other inner side will be completely planked, so no need to do it

so in moment nails cut, but not sanded down





and now the look after sanding





The left side is bolted - the right side not



So the frames are prepared for the next working step

 

[pianoforte]

Looks absolutely great, Spitzenarbeit.

 

[dockattner]

So the chocks or anchor pieces are prepared and sanded, so the next working step was the treenailing of the connecting and the frame elements

Let us take first a look at the Goodwin sketch in his famous book

View attachment 274714 View attachment 274718 View attachment 274719

Here the chock nailing is very simlified, but we get a relatively good impression of the boltings of a double frame

so once more the Anatomy book sketch

View attachment 274717

Here every chock is connected with four bolts towards a frame element - so all together 8 bolts

Here the first trail - the nails are sanded down already flat to the wooden surface

View attachment 274715

I am using for the immitation of the frame bolts my usual coppernails with 0,6mm diameter

View attachment 274716

Looking good and satisfied test - so step by step I made the nailing on one side of the inner side of the frames. The other inner side will be completely planked, so no need to do it

so in moment nails cut, but not sanded down

View attachment 274721

View attachment 274720

and now the look after sanding

View attachment 274723

View attachment 274722

The left side is bolted - the right side not

View attachment 274724

So the frames are prepared for the next working step

View attachment 274725

View attachment 274726

How many drills were killed?

 

[shota70]

So the chocks or anchor pieces are prepared and sanded, so the next working step was the treenailing of the connecting and the frame elements

Let us take first a look at the Goodwin sketch in his famous book

View attachment 274714 View attachment 274718 View attachment 274719

Here the chock nailing is very simlified, but we get a relatively good impression of the boltings of a double frame

so once more the Anatomy book sketch

View attachment 274717

Here every chock is connected with four bolts towards a frame element - so all together 8 bolts

Here the first trail - the nails are sanded down already flat to the wooden surface

View attachment 274715

I am using for the immitation of the frame bolts my usual coppernails with 0,6mm diameter

View attachment 274716

Looking good and satisfied test - so step by step I made the nailing on one side of the inner side of the frames. The other inner side will be completely planked, so no need to do it

so in moment nails cut, but not sanded down

View attachment 274721

View attachment 274720

and now the look after sanding

View attachment 274723

View attachment 274722

The left side is bolted - the right side not

View attachment 274724

So the frames are prepared for the next working step

View attachment 274725

View attachment 274726

the frames looks perfect

 

[Peter Voogt]

So the chocks or anchor pieces are prepared and sanded, so the next working step was the treenailing of the connecting and the frame elements

Let us take first a look at the Goodwin sketch in his famous book

View attachment 274714 View attachment 274718 View attachment 274719

Here the chock nailing is very simlified, but we get a relatively good impression of the boltings of a double frame

so once more the Anatomy book sketch

View attachment 274717

Here every chock is connected with four bolts towards a frame element - so all together 8 bolts

Here the first trail - the nails are sanded down already flat to the wooden surface

View attachment 274715

I am using for the immitation of the frame bolts my usual coppernails with 0,6mm diameter

View attachment 274716

Looking good and satisfied test - so step by step I made the nailing on one side of the inner side of the frames. The other inner side will be completely planked, so no need to do it

so in moment nails cut, but not sanded down

View attachment 274721

View attachment 274720

and now the look after sanding

View attachment 274723

View attachment 274722

The left side is bolted - the right side not

View attachment 274724

So the frames are prepared for the next working step

View attachment 274725

View attachment 274726

Your bolts looks very nice on those complex frames, Uwe.
Here too, perseverance is in order.
Regards, Peter

 

[Tobias]

Great work Uwe. I think it's a nice change from the Lugger.

 

[Uwek]

How many drills were killed?

Ha Ha - I am improving step by step
This time not one drill was killed

Many Thanks to all of your comments and likes received

based on Goodwins and Laverys information I made also some bolts for the connection of the two sides of the double frames


But once more only there where it could be visible later on
BTW: I made faked bolts, so from each side only a short nail - not drilled through the complete double frame

 

[Peter Voogt]

Ha Ha - I am improving step by step
This time not one drill was killed

Many Thanks to all of your comments and likes received

based on Goodwins and Laverys information I made also some bolts for the connection of the two sides of the double frames
View attachment 275358 View attachment 275359

But once more only there where it could be visible later on
BTW: I made faked bolts, so from each side only a short nail - not drilled through the complete double frame

View attachment 275360

View attachment 275361

Ouch ...... that hurts my eyes ........ please don't show to much of this .......
I love you nailing, Uwe.

 

[Uwek]

Ouch ...... that hurts my eyes ........ please don't show to much of this .......
I love you nailing, Uwe.

Hallo Peter,

reading your first sentence I was afraid -> Did I made a mistake, what is wrong?
Many Thanks my friend - Once more a hard work with drilling by hand in order not to kill so much drills.....

 

[Uwek]

A short additional information related to the frame making, especially for the members also working on this kit

In this sketch I marked the way and order I made the double frames



The red arrows show the baselines, the frame drawing
and the green arrows show the direction I layed the frame elements
You can see, that I only made frame 6 and 13 in sandwhich, means fixing side B on top of A (frame 13) or A on top of B (frame 6)
All other frames I made and glued every side separate and fixed A and B together afterwards
With this way I did not use most of the temporary wooden spacers (like 1A-1 etc.)