HMS GRANADO (1742) - midship section - POF by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe

Dematosdg said:
Uwek

I think I found them under "Shoe Tacks".

www.etsy.com

400 Tiny Steel Nails, Tack Nails, Tacks, Brads. 6 9mm Mini Small 0.8mm Shank - Etsy

This Craft Supplies & Tools item by TacksAndNails has 84 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Slovenia. Listed on Aug 1, 2024
www.etsy.com www.etsy.com

Daniel
Click to expand...
Hallo Daniel,
no - I think these are different, because they have a round form and not square
The length is appr. correct but not the cross section.

I predrill the hole with a 0,8mm drill - not very deep, maybe 5mm
press the nail in and fix it with two or three hits with the hammer, afterwards I cut the nail appr. 1mm above the timber (so head and rest of the nail sand down the nail slightly above the timber (maybe 0,2 or 0,3mm)
with this the 0,8mm square cross section of the nail is visible

To make everything clear, I will make in the evening some photos of the working steps and post them here
 
Tobias said:
https://www.amazon.de/Owatrol-Farbkriechöl-1-Liter-Dose/dp/B002YY1HBG/ref=sr_1_5?adgrpid=70772355013&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ZPrv-P09AIVAe3tCh2rdgCqEAAYASAAEgJ0pvD_BwE&hvadid=352713691633&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9041627&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand= 15079912272002209158&hvtargid=kwd-301742839855&hydadcr=2400_1719315&keywords=owatrol+%C3%B6l&qid=1640085789&sr=8-5

Hello Uwe, this is the best way to conserve metals. It removes the residual moisture from the metal and seals it. Also ideally suited for wood and stainless steel optics.
Click to expand...
Thnak for the hint.
It depends everything how the timber will react with such a conservation?!
Not that I have contamination or colour differences of the timber...... maybe the simpliest way would be to take a 000-brush and black Humbrol enamel colour
 
Finalisation of the inner planking - the normal planks were "fixed" with wooden treenails based on the toothpick method
The thick stuff plank under the lower deck clamp was fixed with the square bolts (the beams are only dryfitted)

IMG-8248.jpg

IMG-8252.jpg

and the view from the other side

IMG-8253.jpg

Means all together I have three different types of nails / bolts used:
wooden "treenails" with 0,5mm toothpicks - for the normal planks
copper "bolts" with 0,6mm copper nails - for the thick stuff planking and joint of the keelson
quare nail "bolts" with 0,8mm iron nails - for the strutural elements like clamps, keelson and riders

IMG-8257.jpg

IMG-8258.jpg

Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued .....
 
Uwek said:
Hallo Daniel,
no - I think these are different, because they have a round form and not square
The length is appr. correct but not the cross section.

I predrill the hole with a 0,8mm drill - not very deep, maybe 5mm
press the nail in and fix it with two or three hits with the hammer, afterwards I cut the nail appr. 1mm above the timber (so head and rest of the nail sand down the nail slightly above the timber (maybe 0,2 or 0,3mm)
with this the 0,8mm square cross section of the nail is visible

To make everything clear, I will make in the evening some photos of the working steps and post them here
Click to expand...
I made a short row with such nails for showing the small different working steps installing my rectangular "bolts" with bolthead of 0,8mm

From right to left:
1) small dott with a scriber
2) drilled hole of 0,8mm maybe 5mm deep
3) nail / tuck of 0,8mm square installed
4) nail driven with small hammer
5) nail head cut maybe 1 or 2mm above the timber
6) filing down with a needlefile
7) finished square bolt

IMG-8385.jpg

IMG-8386.jpg

IMG-8387.jpg
 
Olivers Historic Shipyard said:
Thanks Uwe

The result looks fine. I bought this material here to test it.
But i need more or less 6000 bolts. To make them with a normal round wire is more cheaper

View attachment 277312

Click to expand...
A very good tipp - I am looking forward to hear and see about your experience with this gauge
Just found out, that there is also 0,6mm square and bronze available ......
 
Dematosdg said:
Uwek

I think I found them under "Shoe Tacks".

www.etsy.com

400 Tiny Steel Nails, Tack Nails, Tacks, Brads. 6 9mm Mini Small 0.8mm Shank - Etsy

This Craft Supplies & Tools item by TacksAndNails has 84 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Slovenia. Listed on Aug 1, 2024
www.etsy.com www.etsy.com

Daniel
Click to expand...

Hi Uwek

Concerning the cite i posted above and that I quote, the seller answered by email that they are square shanks. So I placed an order of 2 bags.

And, as we are on the topic, I found this ones too on ebay. And ordered also 2 bags, just in case.

These 2 orders will be enough for the rest of my modeler life.

www.ebay.com

Shoe Tacks/Nails 5-9mm Square Shank 0.8mm dia. For Lasting, Repairs. Tiny. Smal | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Shoe Tacks/Nails 5-9mm Square Shank 0.8mm dia. For Lasting, Repairs. Tiny. Smal at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

I hope this helps others on their seach.

@Oliver, Nice tip the square wire on Amazon!!! I will look for it on Amazon USA.

@Uwek, Clear explanation of the process you did for your square bolts. THANK YOU !!

Daniel
 
A little bit of the construction progress on my HMS Granado I can also show today

The riders are finally fixed into the hull - when you build this model, please be aware, that they are not exactly under the beams

IMG-8259.jpg

IMG-8260.jpg

IMG-8261.jpg

IMG-8262.jpg

IMG-8263.jpg

Many Thanks for your interest in my work .... to be continued ......
 
Olivers Historic Shipyard said:
Thanks Uwe

The result looks fine. I bought this material here to test it.
But i need more or less 6000 bolts. To make them with a normal round wire is more cheaper

View attachment 277312

Click to expand...
I was looking at using some square bolts on my Bonhomme Richard cross section as well. I had thought of using square wire (my wife makes jewelry, and has quite a few sizes of copper wire as well as some in antique bronze (although it's probably just an outside coating) of reasonable size. But I was uncertain how to shape and attach them.

Do you intend to simply drill holes similar in size to the square wire, then cut pieces of wire and force them in? Or will you need to shape the wire to a point to install? If so, it appears simpler to start with square nails and cut them.

For Clenched nails, N-Scale model railroad spikes would be a good substitute, I feel, and already finished, but I don't believe clenched nails were used in these areas, although they may be usable in other areas.
 
Hallo friends,
also the nailing / bolting of the frames fron the outside was done - I used like inside the 0,6mm copper nails.

IMG-8266.jpg

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and smoothly sanded down

IMG-8268.jpg

IMG-8270.jpg

IMG-8272.jpg

IMG-8273.jpg

IMG-8274.jpg

some small sanding is still necessary .....

Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued ......
 
Hi Uwe

Very nice work indeed.I would be tempted to try Birchwood Casey's gun bluing solution applied with a fine brush to your steel nails.Try on a scrap mock up first to check for staining.It rinses off with water afterwards.
The copper nails are best done with diluted liver of sulphur, this does not mark the surrounding timber but DOES SMELL a little unpleasantROTF

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Uwe, I've read here that steel reacts to pearwood, causing discoloring of the wood. Even brass-plated steel nails. Are you concerned that your cut nails may do this?
 
Signet said:
Uwe, I've read here that steel reacts to pearwood, causing discoloring of the wood. Even brass-plated steel nails. Are you concerned that your cut nails may do this?
Click to expand...
Hi Signet

I don't dispute what you have read but feel whoever made the claim may have had a bad experience due to moisture in the Pearwood as this timber is extremely hydroscopic. I wonder if moisture in the timber caused the corrosion and subsequent staining?

We have two builders in the scratch section who have used steel to great effect on hull fittings, Ivan Trtanj and Kortes, both with no adverse effects.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
NMBROOK said:
Hi Signet

I don't dispute what you have read but feel whoever made the claim may have had a bad experience due to moisture in the Pearwood as this timber is extremely hydroscopic. I wonder if moisture in the timber caused the corrosion and subsequent staining?

We have two builders in the scratch section who have used steel to great effect on hull fittings, Ivan Trtanj and Kortes, both with no adverse effects.
Click to expand...
I don't doubt that. We've all seen untreated steel nails in wood outdoors where rust and iron stains appear in and around the nails in the wood. But you shouldn't get much of that in a controlled (dry) environment.
 
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