HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe

[Tobias]

Good morning Uwe, perhaps I have overlooked it but I would be interested to know if you have already glued the deck construction to the frames or can you take everything out again completely. My question is based on the interior construction. As I understand it, you are going to make the parting cut and I assume that you will then do the finishing. I imagine it is difficult how to proceed in this case so that everything fits together again afterwards. Or can you take the deck out again and then build the interior, put the decks back in and then cut it? Questions about questions I know but I'm just interested in what the plan is.

 

[Uwek]

Good morning Uwe, perhaps I have overlooked it but I would be interested to know if you have already glued the deck construction to the frames or can you take everything out again completely. My question is based on the interior construction. As I understand it, you are going to make the parting cut and I assume that you will then do the finishing. I imagine it is difficult how to proceed in this case so that everything fits together again afterwards. Or can you take the deck out again and then build the interior, put the decks back in and then cut it? Questions about questions I know but I'm just interested in what the plan is.

Let me try to explain.

Here once more an older sketch with the first idea, which will be most probable the cuting line



I checked with the outer planking, especially with the wales, which should be on the upper part, that it will be appr. this cuuting line

the cutting line is appr. the green dotted line
the red line shows the final planked line with the complete wales on the upper element - so the wales will slightly overlapp the cut





In the cross section (midship) it is looking like this (here sorry the colours are changed)

The red line is th cutting of the farmes and the beams for the mortar beds are lower part
the center area with the mortar is still open for discussion (pink lines)
On the right side I showed the outer planking, dark blue are the three wale-planks which will be fixed to the upper part



Here with red lines the approximate cutting line



Now to your question related to the deck structures

The structure of the deck in the green area (numbered #13 in the cross section) is fixed to the hull, because it is definitely higher than the cutting line
Only the structure of the aft area (marked in red) is lower and I am afraid, that I could damage it when I cut the hull - so I will not fix it to the hull before the "BIG CUT" - I will fix this afterwards
The problem that the upper part of the hull will be weak at the aft area where no deck structure is fixed inside, I have to strengthen it from outside, maybe with already installed wales..... I will see



It sounds very weired and complex -
Yes - IT IS weired and complex and I am thinking about this already over weeks
- and I am pretty sure, that I will forget something when I start with the saw

But there is no way back

 

[Uwek]

At the end It will be somehow like the Leighton model - with some differences, but the main idea cutting under the wales will be the same.
Also the interior will be splitted into the two half (upper and lower part) in a similar way

 

[Frank48]

Alla fine sarà in qualche modo come il modello Leighton - con alcune differenze, ma l'idea principale di tagliare sotto il Galles sarà la stessa.
Anche l'interno sarà diviso nelle due metà (parte superiore e parte inferiore) in modo similitudine

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Ciao Uwek, mi permetto di osare la mia opinione? Grazie, è un lavoro duro con risultati non degni di questo bellissimo che lavoro stai facendo,


Ciao Uwek, mi permetti di osare la mia opinione? Grazie, è un duro lavoro con risultati non degni di questo bellissimo lavoro che stai facendo,












sono della Tartana fatta da un modellista di mia conoscenza

 

[Stevedownunder]

At the end It will be somehow like the Leighton model - with some differences, but the main idea cutting under the wales will be the same.
Also the interior will be splitted into the two half (upper and lower part) in a similar way

View attachment 339163

View attachment 339164

View attachment 339166

View attachment 339165

Hi Uwe,
This is a very difficult thing to pull off IMHO.
Are you thinking of fitting a temporary batten to use as a cutting guide?

Cheers,
Stephen.

 

[Peter Voogt]

It sounds very weired and complex -
Yes - IT IS weired and complex and I am thinking about this already over weeks
- and I am pretty sure, that I will forget something when I start with the saw

But there is no way back

A Deja-Vu for me, Uwe.
And after so much and so long thinking about it, I have every confidence that it will go well. I forgot also something, but plan some rest moments. And don't hesitate to adjust your plan if necessary.
Regards, Peter

 

[Steef66]

plan some rest moments.

Use a bandsaw, no rest necessary

But all "crazyness on a sticky" what is this with all you guys cutting ships in half? I wouldn't sleep for weeks.

 

[Uwek]

Hi Uwe,
This is a very difficult thing to pull off IMHO.
Are you thinking of fitting a temporary batten to use as a cutting guide?

Cheers,
Stephen.

Hallo Stephen,
I was thinking about, but I guess, that I will cut "free hand" following a pencil line showing a marked line.
At the end, the upper part will be presented appr. 20cm over the lower hull.
The cutting edge on the upper part will be "covered" by the lower planking row of the wales
At the lower part the frames will be visible, but I can sand the tops of the frames to get a smooth top - following appr. the cuvature of the wales (which are 20cm away)

In short time, in some days - after some more preparation works for example stiffening the frames, I will make the Big Cut - I have to.....

Frank, Stefan and Peter - many thanks for your kind words
and all the others for your likes received

 

[Uwek]

A short post with some more boring photos

The deck structure is closed with installing the carlings, knees and ledges midship around the main hatch



also the mast partners were fixed







As mentioned before, the tops of the frames have to be more stabilised before the cut, so I decided to install already the small clamps for the for the fore and aft decks
In order to get the correct height, CAF once more supplied a small plywood template on which the small beams can lay - with this the correct height of beams and clamps above the deck is defined





the beams are still only dry fitted (the small crack of one clamp will be not a problem





a fast test fit with the later base of the bowsprit - only for me to see, how it will work (and if the clamps are correct) - but final assembly will be much later



Many Thanks for your interest ..... to be continued

 

[Frank48]

Hallo Stephen,
I was thinking about, but I guess, that I will cut "free hand" following a pencil line showing a marked line.
At the end, the upper part will be presented appr. 20cm over the lower hull.
The cutting edge on the upper part will be "covered" by the lower planking row of the wales
At the lower part the frames will be visible, but I can sand the tops of the frames to get a smooth top - following appr. the cuvature of the wales (which are 20cm away)

In short time, in some days - after some more preparation works for example stiffening the frames, I will make the Big Cut - I have to.....

Frank, Stefan and Peter - many thanks for your kind words
and all the others for your likes received

Hi Uwe, I repeat myself sorry, don't

 

[Uwek]

Before removing the hull out of the jig I fixed around the complete hull at the top ends of the frames from outside some temporary strips - they are only for stiffening and fixing the top ends of the frames, especially when the Big Cut was done - these stripes will be removed later, when i make the final planking of the upper part of the hull

Partly maybe you recognized thes stripes already in my last photos


Due to the fact, that it is here important, that all frames have really a contact with the stripes I needed a lot of clamps - you can never have enough of them




Also for stiffening the hulls I installed the smaller clamps for the rear after cabin deck

First the measurment of the correct height on both sides



also with the help of the small beams





the beam clamps are now fixed and the beams are laying dry fit



once more with checking of the correct height



and the correct alignment





Now I have the feeling, that the hull with all frames are stabilized and I can try to remove the hull from the jig - please cross the fingers

Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued and hopefull next post with the naked hull outside the jig

 

[GrantTyler]

Before removing the hull out of the jig I fixed around the complete hull at the top ends of the frames from outside some temporary strips - they are only for stiffening and fixing the top ends of the frames, especially when the Big Cut was done - these stripes will be removed later, when i make the final planking of the upper part of the hull

Partly maybe you recognized thes stripes already in my last photos
View attachment 339572

Due to the fact, that it is here important, that all frames have really a contact with the stripes I needed a lot of clamps - you can never have enough of them

View attachment 339571


Also for stiffening the hulls I installed the smaller clamps for the rear after cabin deck

First the measurment of the correct height on both sides

View attachment 339573

also with the help of the small beams

View attachment 339574

View attachment 339575

the beam clamps are now fixed and the beams are laying dry fit

View attachment 339576

once more with checking of the correct height

View attachment 339577

and the correct alignment

View attachment 339578

View attachment 339579

Now I have the feeling, that the hull with all frames are stabilized and I can try to remove the hull from the jig - please cross the fingers

Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued and hopefull next post with the naked hull outside the jig

Good evening Uwek. Fingers are crossed.. although with all the work done, I am sure it will come out the rig no problem. Cheers Grant

 

[Foxtrott]

Very precise and clean work, Uwe!
That is stable without doubt.
Thumbs up!

 

[Peter Voogt]

Before removing the hull out of the jig I fixed around the complete hull at the top ends of the frames from outside some temporary strips - they are only for stiffening and fixing the top ends of the frames, especially when the Big Cut was done - these stripes will be removed later, when i make the final planking of the upper part of the hull

Partly maybe you recognized thes stripes already in my last photos
View attachment 339572

Due to the fact, that it is here important, that all frames have really a contact with the stripes I needed a lot of clamps - you can never have enough of them

View attachment 339571


Also for stiffening the hulls I installed the smaller clamps for the rear after cabin deck

First the measurment of the correct height on both sides

View attachment 339573

also with the help of the small beams

View attachment 339574

View attachment 339575

the beam clamps are now fixed and the beams are laying dry fit

View attachment 339576

once more with checking of the correct height

View attachment 339577

and the correct alignment

View attachment 339578

View attachment 339579

Now I have the feeling, that the hull with all frames are stabilized and I can try to remove the hull from the jig - please cross the fingers

Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued and hopefull next post with the naked hull outside the jig

Just a plan that has been well thought out, Uwe. That every frame part, after the cut, has at least 2 connections.
Regards, Peter.

 

[RDN1954]

But all "crazyness on a sticky" what is this with all you guys cutting ships in half? I wouldn't sleep for weeks.

In another life I said I would repeat the build of a POF Bluenose, this one then to be cut in half on the water line. There was only one condition to be met: my current build should be declared a succes upon completion. Although not close to being finished, I don't think I'll have to declare a successful build once I've put in the last ratline in. Uwe is among a select group of daredevils, in all likelihood capable of pulling if this stunt.

 

[pianoforte]

I think your work is just top-notch an I'm keeping my fingers crossed that your cutting plan works out to your complete satisfaction. But I'm pretty sure about that.

 

[Tobias]

Good morning Uwe, super great work. I keep my fingers crossed that everything goes according to plan with your final cut. I am convinced that you can do it.

 

[Frank48]

Hello Uwe, sorry about the cut you will make. How thick is the cutting blade? I think you will no longer have the height dimensions of the hull, right?

 

[Uwek]

Many thanks to @Frank48 , @Tobias , @pianoforte , @RDN1954 , @Peter Voogt , @Foxtrott and @GrantTyler for the kind words and all others for the likes received

YES - It will work !!!

and no question mark any more

Hello Uwe, sorry about the cut you will make. How thick is the cutting blade? I think you will no longer have the height dimensions of the hull, right?

I am planning to cut with a thin blade installed in a skalpel-knife
It is the so called "Handy Craft Saw" from Tamiya - originally used in plastic modeling - so fine teeth and only 0,5mm thick


and the height dimensions - it will be not visible - one or two even three mm missing will be not possible to recognize
The two halfs will be seperate - the upper part will "fly" 20 cm above the lower part

 

[Uwek]

I wish you all a nice weekend, but before a short info about my HMS Granado

She is FREE



More infos and photos comming