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I notice this photo a bit distorted, am I wrong?
HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
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Better to use a Japanese saw, they available in 0,3 mm. The Tamiya, I got this here to, got a bad cut in wood.
Or the saw Maarten used https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/hms-alert-1777-cutter-pof-by-shota70.8735/post-267421
Agree Japanese saw better to use, the Tamiya type tend to heat up quickly and bend or buckle much easily. Would test both types on scrap wood to compare first Uwe if helps
Hallo @Cathber
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
And? Did you decide in the meantime, if you would like to start a POF kit project?
I do not understand completely - what is dissorted with or in the photo?
The hull is separated from the jig
Many Thanks to all your comments and suggestions, especially related to the saw.
Stephan:
I was looking at the japanese saw, f.e. especially the saw Maarten used, but I am not fully convinced
The two wider blades 40mm and appr. 20mm have a thicker part along the axis, in which the blades are fixed -> with these blades I can not make a cut through the frames of only 0,3mm - means in 90° towards the frame , only longitudinal. but a straight cut longitudinal is not working, when I want to follow the wales with a slight curve.
So for me only the two small blades would be useful and I think at the end, the Tamiya saw is very similar.....
and I want to cut every side of the hull seperate , so no cut through the complete ship in once, side by side and frame by frame
@kidsgalore
I tried it and can say: I am cutting very slowly - it is still a hand saw, so it will definitely not heat up, when I use it
Yes the smaller (the upper one in the photo) dents to bend, but I am planing to use this one only for the first frame, because it fits between two frames.
After the first frame is cut through I can change to the wider one (at the bottom), which is not bending with careful use and it keeps the cutting direction very well.
When everything is finished I will be able to give some more comments
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Dear Uwe
I agree 100% with your choice of saw. As you can see, I have the exact same saw (actually two) as supplied by @Kolderstok. They work wonderfully well and are very precise. My only recommendation would be to switch to the flat/wide blade as soon as you can. I also have the Japanese saw and this saw is by far superior! (I used it to remove the entire stern section on the Willem Barentsz) Good luck!
I agree 100% with your choice of saw. As you can see, I have the exact same saw (actually two) as supplied by @Kolderstok. They work wonderfully well and are very precise. My only recommendation would be to switch to the flat/wide blade as soon as you can. I also have the Japanese saw and this saw is by far superior! (I used it to remove the entire stern section on the Willem Barentsz) Good luck!
Now without much words I would like to show the hull just like it was looking, directly after the removal of the jig,
so without any, really any, repair or correctional measures.
This is what you get when you remove the jig
so just take a look on the underwater hull
I am very happy - better - Very very happy about the result
(just once more: no sanding was done after removal of the hull from jig)
This way of installation the frames on the keel in such a jig,
like more or less all scratch builders are doing it,
is the best and most accurate way -> and this hull is a very good proof
Now I will take the sanding block in hand and will give the frames a smooth surface - like a baby-PoPo
so without any, really any, repair or correctional measures.
This is what you get when you remove the jig
so just take a look on the underwater hull
I am very happy - better - Very very happy about the result
(just once more: no sanding was done after removal of the hull from jig)
This way of installation the frames on the keel in such a jig,
like more or less all scratch builders are doing it,
is the best and most accurate way -> and this hull is a very good proof
Now I will take the sanding block in hand and will give the frames a smooth surface - like a baby-PoPo
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Maybe @Peter Voogt can help you out. There are Japanse saw blades without the backsupport and just less than half a mm thick.
Search for Ryoba Japanese saw.
Takagi Premium set fine 100900 - Japansaegenshop.com
An exceptional saw set for woodworkers who need the smoothest and most accurate cuts. Extensively machined to reduce friction.
www.japansaegenshop.com
Hi Uwek
I think Frank refers to the image distortion seen at the left and right of the ship. I placed Red lines.
Cheers
Daniel
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Hi Uwe, I asked you is the photo that gives you the feeling of distortion in this photo, don't be mad that I only asked one question, sorry.
Ah - ok:
The hull is laying on the side - therefore not a real top view - the jig is a real top view
Many thanks for your interest, the comments and hints and all the likes received
It was already a longer time ago, when I made the bolting of the individual elements of every frame
Now the hull is out of the jig and I checked the view form outside
I do not know, if it is worth the hours working on this, with drilling of hundrets of holes, etc. - most of them will be covered or barely visible - I know and you know also, that they are there !!!!
A positive side-effect:
The used copper-nail-bolting-heads were in the meantime darkened and not shiny any more, like in spring, when I made the work.
This effect I realized already on my Le Coureur - I personally like them more than brass nails
But back to work - not much but still some sanding is necessary
Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued .....
It was already a longer time ago, when I made the bolting of the individual elements of every frame
HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
Nice work Uwe! The stern is tricky - Do as myself and Uwe have done - slow and steady, and lots of offering up the transoms and frames to find out where to cut next! Ted
shipsofscale.com
Now the hull is out of the jig and I checked the view form outside
I do not know, if it is worth the hours working on this, with drilling of hundrets of holes, etc. - most of them will be covered or barely visible - I know and you know also, that they are there !!!!
A positive side-effect:
The used copper-nail-bolting-heads were in the meantime darkened and not shiny any more, like in spring, when I made the work.
This effect I realized already on my Le Coureur - I personally like them more than brass nails
But back to work - not much but still some sanding is necessary
Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued .....
Bonjour, Quelle est la taille des clous que vous utilisez (diamètre, longueur) ? C'est certainement indiqué sur le forum mais je ne retrouve pas la page.
merci d'avance
Hello, What is the size of the nails you use (diameter, length)? It's probably mentioned on the forum but I can't find the page.
thank you in advance
The hull looks very nice and solid, Uwe. BRAVO!
And about the extra time spending on all those tiny nails: it are the tiny details, more or less to see, that gives a model that extra wow when you see them by looking closer and closer.
And sanding the hull gives such a great feeling!
Regards, Peter.
Hi Uwe, I asked myself the same question about the nails. I decided to do them all, even if they will never be seen again, but I know they are there. I don't know if I will do this crazy work again for the next model, it was almost 2 1/2 months of work.
Peter, I can only agree with you that it is often the details.
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At least it kep you 2½ months of the STREETSHi Uwe, I asked myself the same question about the nails. I decided to do them all, even if they will never be seen again, but I know they are there. I don't know if I will do this crazy work again for the next model, it was almost 2 1/2 months of work.
Peter, I can only agree with you that it is often the details.
Underhill wrote in his book:"It is not the ready model that gives me satisfaction, but the build of it"
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Very true - It's the building that interests me, not necessarily the completed model.At least it kep you 2½ months of the steeds
Underhill wrote in his book:"It is not the ready model that gives me satisfaction, but the build of it"
Ted
At least it kep you 2½ months of the steeds
Underhill wrote in his book:"It is not the ready model that gives me satisfaction, but the build of it"
I have to agree here men. I'm nearing the completion of a build and find the end rather anticlimactic. Already looking into what's next. The joy is in the doing.