HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
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Oh my god, I missed the final cut, in my defence I didn't get a notification. I must say I am very impressed. Great work Uwe and I'm happy for you that everything worked out so well.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2017
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Just catching up on your log Uwek. What wonderful results you've achieved! Great advertisement for those 2 little hand saws, although I think them being the the "right", steady hands had something to do with it. I'm still shaking my head in amazement at how you were able to achieve such a straight cut all along the hull. I'm sure you took your time.
On another note, I know I'm not quite 100% back yet as for a nano second, just a nano second, reading your post installing your handing knees, my mind thought, OMG he installed them upside down.
But then I thought, it's UWEK, no way, so what am I seeing.....then realized you just had the entire deck upside down for illustration purposes.
Wonderful work!
On another note, I know I'm not quite 100% back yet as for a nano second, just a nano second, reading your post installing your handing knees, my mind thought, OMG he installed them upside down.
But then I thought, it's UWEK, no way, so what am I seeing.....then realized you just had the entire deck upside down for illustration purposes.Wonderful work!
Bonjour, Quel type de clou utilisez vous (diamètre, longueur) , et a quelle diamètre avez percé les avant trou ? merci d'avance
Hello, What type of nail do you use (diameter, length), and what diameter did you drill the pilot holes? thank you in advance
Many Thanks to @Mirek , @shota70 , @Tobias , @Hoss6262 and @Cathber for the kind comments and all others for the given likes / thumb upps
usually the small copper nails have 0,6 or sometimes 0,7mm diameter - predrilling of pilotholes is a must, although the timber of this kit are very good and splintering is extremely unlikely. I pre-drill with 0,5mm, so that the nail is slightly pressed into the wood, therefore no glue necessary.
After finishing of the deck structure the next were the two smaller hatches and companion ways in the after cabin deck
Under this a ladder will be installed, so therefore I am not sure if the cover will stay, but defintely the two ringbolts have to be installed
the same cover open and the bottom side visible
The small hatch down to the breadroom - also here the eyelets will come later
Many Thanks for the interest in my building log - to be continued
Under this a ladder will be installed, so therefore I am not sure if the cover will stay, but defintely the two ringbolts have to be installed
the same cover open and the bottom side visible
The small hatch down to the breadroom - also here the eyelets will come later
Many Thanks for the interest in my building log - to be continued
started also the deck-planking of the after cabin
This deck is inside, so no caulking necessary, but chamfered the edges to pronounce slightly the single boards.
also on the other side I have to install some boards, so that the future cabin walls inside will have a base
Many Thanks for your interest
This deck is inside, so no caulking necessary, but chamfered the edges to pronounce slightly the single boards.
also on the other side I have to install some boards, so that the future cabin walls inside will have a base
Many Thanks for your interest
That slight chamfering of the deck boards has me thinking...
It does create a very interesting visual effect. I guess I have not seen that done elsewhere though surely it has been used. Thanks for sharing.
It does create a very interesting visual effect. I guess I have not seen that done elsewhere though surely it has been used. Thanks for sharing.
I have caught up with your build log again.
Truly magnificent.
Chapeau.
Truly magnificent.
Chapeau.
Many Thanks @Herman and Paul alias @dockattner for your kind comments
I made this slight chamfering already some times on lower decks and also walls -> the small shadow produces more the impression of single boards. Especialy when there is no caulking. The upper Main deck will be "caulked" and a chamfering would be too much, especialy using paint to simulate caulking would get a big mess
The planking shown in my yesterdays post is fixed to the beams
a decision, if I will nail or treenail this planking is still open, maybe only immitated nails with only small dotts made by a scriber - but this decision can be done also in some days or maybe weeks
positiv with such a big cut: you can work on the deck or down in the hold - so a lot of work places
When something is getting boring, or decisions are not made -> no problem -> I will do something else
I made this slight chamfering already some times on lower decks and also walls -> the small shadow produces more the impression of single boards. Especialy when there is no caulking. The upper Main deck will be "caulked" and a chamfering would be too much, especialy using paint to simulate caulking would get a big mess
The planking shown in my yesterdays post is fixed to the beams
a decision, if I will nail or treenail this planking is still open, maybe only immitated nails with only small dotts made by a scriber - but this decision can be done also in some days or maybe weeks
positiv with such a big cut: you can work on the deck or down in the hold - so a lot of work places
When something is getting boring, or decisions are not made -> no problem -> I will do something else
When you have these possibilities to work here and there, it's really nice. Great idea with the bevelled boards.
I am a big fan of chambering planks, like Paul mentioned, it is a great representation of individual planks. I know Uwe is a big fan too, he uses this method on past models as well.
BTW, your work is very accurate and looks very good!
BTW, your work is very accurate and looks very good!
to show you some examples
Here from the Le Coureur
or on the Bonhomme Richard section, where I made this the first time
on walls
but also decks
Here from the Le Coureur
or on the Bonhomme Richard section, where I made this the first time
on walls
but also decks
After the yesterdays excurs about chamfering the boards, coming back to the progress on the Granado
I started to make the interior walls of the after cabins
Here the plan excerpt from the Anatomy book
and the interpretation prepared by CAF
In the Anatomy book there are also some smaller sketches shoing these walls as casette walls - unfortunately I forgot to make a photos to show this "look", but I will catch up and post it on the next days
Now only for the beginning the clever way CAF is representing these kind of walls. Made out of three sandwhich elements, on which the outer parts are chamfered to get the look
One of these main bulkhead wall contents all together 19 parts, with 8 casettes on each side
a first impression how these walls are looking like
A lot of sanding - and I made them by hand with a sanding block
- YES YES - this could be done also with a mill, but I was too lazy - and I had to pay for this decision
at the end I was "clever" enough to sand down my finger also in the same angle
-> In all of my models is minimum one drop of my blood and sometimes more
Many Thanks for your interest ..... to be continued
I started to make the interior walls of the after cabins
Here the plan excerpt from the Anatomy book
and the interpretation prepared by CAF
In the Anatomy book there are also some smaller sketches shoing these walls as casette walls - unfortunately I forgot to make a photos to show this "look", but I will catch up and post it on the next days
Now only for the beginning the clever way CAF is representing these kind of walls. Made out of three sandwhich elements, on which the outer parts are chamfered to get the look
One of these main bulkhead wall contents all together 19 parts, with 8 casettes on each side
a first impression how these walls are looking like
A lot of sanding - and I made them by hand with a sanding block
- YES YES - this could be done also with a mill, but I was too lazy - and I had to pay for this decision
at the end I was "clever" enough to sand down my finger also in the same angle
-> In all of my models is minimum one drop of my blood and sometimes more
Many Thanks for your interest ..... to be continued
The inner walls look really good, which can't be said of your thumb, sorry Uwe. I think we've all suffered such injuries.
....art requires sacrifice, but I love how the walls look. It is a very simple and quite effective solution to make walls look 'fancy' without involving a milling machine.
As mentioned yesterday here the look of the walls shown by Goodwin in his Anatomy book
The cassetes are named here - "Recessed Panels"
to everybody celebrating Christmas Eve -> MERRY CHRISTMAS
Stay Healthy and enjoy the time with your familys and friends
- Joined
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Ouch.That must have hurt.
at the end I was "clever" enough to sand down my finger also in the same angle
-> In all of my models is minimum one drop of my blood and sometimes more
That elements on wall look very good and in my opinion you took the harder way, but it's good to show that machines aren't always necessary. I would definitely make it by milling(but I'm lazy
)