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For the Fore and Quarterdeck I would not use more planking than is shown in the museum model. For the deck planking it depend, if you want show the cannons
HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
I think the way your model cut and will be presented, it would make sense to keep it the same way as the museum model, with minimum planking to expose the hold and the decks for the eyes.
Some very nice panelling work and louvres in you cabins Uwe.
I may be in the minority, but feel the radiuses at the end of the open areas is too much of a visual distraction.It also makes this feature look like part of the ship as opposed to omitted planking for viewing purposes. I personally prefer the traditional Navy Board style of omitted planks.Many examples in Franklin's book which I believe you own (along with countless others
)
Kind Regards
Nigel
I may be in the minority, but feel the radiuses at the end of the open areas is too much of a visual distraction.It also makes this feature look like part of the ship as opposed to omitted planking for viewing purposes. I personally prefer the traditional Navy Board style of omitted planks.Many examples in Franklin's book which I believe you own (along with countless others
)Kind Regards
Nigel
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I have been following your building of Granado with a lot of interest because of my La Salamandre.
She is looking fantastic and your decision to cut the frames to expose inside has really paid off. It was a brave decision as I know how much work goes into making the frames in the first place.
I would also like to thank you for the effort you put into presenting your work on this forum. It is a project in itself, but it shows better than any manual how models are built.
She is looking fantastic and your decision to cut the frames to expose inside has really paid off. It was a brave decision as I know how much work goes into making the frames in the first place.
I would also like to thank you for the effort you put into presenting your work on this forum. It is a project in itself, but it shows better than any manual how models are built.
Good morning Uwek. Stunning work. I agree with you to go as open as possible- fits with the rest of your model. My 2 cents -Personally I would go for some decking on the poop deck on one side. I’m with Tobias here as on such an open, cut in half masterpiece I think the symmetry as shown on the display model you showed would detract. What ever you do will be exceptional that I know. Cheers Grant
Hallo @Maarten , @Tobias , @Mirek , @Steef66 ,@dockattner , @Dean62 , @Peter Voogt , @AnobiumPunctatum , @Jimsky , @NMBROOK , @Salty and @GrantTyler for the comments, hints and tips
When I go through your opinions it is a mixture of the tastes - and somehow I am happy about this - it is once more showing, that we all build our models very individual and there is no common taste or opinion, especially in such open POF models ........ let us see how I will go further - I have to make some tests to get a final personal opinion...... But many thanks to all for your participation and the help giving to me.
Also many thanks for all others giving a like to my post(s)
Due to the fact, that I did not decided how to plank this part - I made another decision - the decision to move fore to the forecastle and the fittings close to the bow
upper part of model:
25 - windlass
24 - bowsprit step
20 - bowsprit
23 - hawse holes
18 - galley flue
lower part of model
59 + 60 - firehearth / oven
The HMS Granado had no capstan, but a windlass, which has to be finished and installed as one of the next steps , before I can close the forecastle with the beams and planking
the kit includes a cnc milled raw windlass drum - a very good basis - on the photo located more or less at the place where it will be installed
I had to cut out a notch in the deck planking for the windass - also the notch for the bowsprit step
cnc-milling machines can not mill rectangle holes, this has to be done by the modeler - I used a brass rod and filed one side rectangle. With one or two gentle hits with the hammer I got the necessary square holes
now it is looking already much better
Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued
When I go through your opinions it is a mixture of the tastes - and somehow I am happy about this - it is once more showing, that we all build our models very individual and there is no common taste or opinion, especially in such open POF models ........ let us see how I will go further - I have to make some tests to get a final personal opinion...... But many thanks to all for your participation and the help giving to me.
Also many thanks for all others giving a like to my post(s)
Due to the fact, that I did not decided how to plank this part - I made another decision - the decision to move fore to the forecastle and the fittings close to the bow
upper part of model:
25 - windlass
24 - bowsprit step
20 - bowsprit
23 - hawse holes
18 - galley flue
lower part of model
59 + 60 - firehearth / oven
The HMS Granado had no capstan, but a windlass, which has to be finished and installed as one of the next steps , before I can close the forecastle with the beams and planking
the kit includes a cnc milled raw windlass drum - a very good basis - on the photo located more or less at the place where it will be installed
I had to cut out a notch in the deck planking for the windass - also the notch for the bowsprit step
cnc-milling machines can not mill rectangle holes, this has to be done by the modeler - I used a brass rod and filed one side rectangle. With one or two gentle hits with the hammer I got the necessary square holes
now it is looking already much better
Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2018
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- 353
Hallo Uwe, es ist alles eine Frage des Aufwands, der Zeit und des Fräsers, wenn du die viereckigen Löcher mit einem 1.0mm Fräser vorbohrst und dann die Ecken mit einem 0,3mm Fräser bearbeitest, erhältst du fast quadratische Öffnungen. An 0.2mm Fräser habe ich mich noch nicht getraut.
Sorry I answered Uwe in German. Here the English translation
Hi Uwe, it's all a question of effort, time and the cutter. If you pre-drill the square holes with a 1.0mm cutter and then machine the corners with a 0.3mm cutter, you get almost square openings. I have not yet dared to use a 0.2mm cutter.
Sorry I answered Uwe in German. Here the English translation
Hi Uwe, it's all a question of effort, time and the cutter. If you pre-drill the square holes with a 1.0mm cutter and then machine the corners with a 0.3mm cutter, you get almost square openings. I have not yet dared to use a 0.2mm cutter.
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Before final installation of the windlass etc. I had to make some more sawdust at the bow and drilled the four hawse holes into the bow
and I decided to cover the hawse holes with some lead - like some ships had also in real
- but I realized, that it is not so easy
The first attempts were not very promising - especialy looking on a close up photo
I tried also with a brass tube - but - NO
some new attempts
but tube by tube I could live with the result
from inside (but not much will be visible
at the end - when I do not like them any more - I can easily remove the lead in only some seconds
and I decided to cover the hawse holes with some lead - like some ships had also in real
- but I realized, that it is not so easy
The first attempts were not very promising - especialy looking on a close up photo
I tried also with a brass tube - but - NO
some new attempts
but tube by tube I could live with the result
from inside (but not much will be visible
at the end - when I do not like them any more - I can easily remove the lead in only some seconds
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In the meantime I finished the windlass, coloured it red
and also installed the metal bands / reinforcements and bolts
material after the blackening (laying in plastic box)
Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued .....
and also installed the metal bands / reinforcements and bolts
material after the blackening (laying in plastic box)
Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued .....
Hello Uwe. Try this (end caps for wires). The plastic part is removable, and the metal one has the form exactly what you need (a little flanged).
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Nicely detailed Uwe. Beautiful work!
Hello Uwe, very nice brass work, you can see the great result from your bending tool.
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That's what I meant.
Beautiful Uwe!
Stunning.
Hi Uwe,
I used the same as @Walterone mentioned on my Royal Caroline.
Is works perfect and looks like lead lining if you darken them
I have these in a lot of diameters and lenght and also used them for the scuppers.
If ypu want to test them pm me the diameters and lenght you need.
I used the same as @Walterone mentioned on my Royal Caroline.
HMS Royal Caroline kit ZHL 1/30
Excellent Maarten, I will be fitting spill pipes on my model too.
shipsofscale.com
Is works perfect and looks like lead lining if you darken them
I have these in a lot of diameters and lenght and also used them for the scuppers.
If ypu want to test them pm me the diameters and lenght you need.