More or less the last activity of part 1 of the kit was the installation of the vertical counter timbers
HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
Looks absolutely great, Uwe.
and the final timbers of the stern structure
it is really very helpful to have such a jig - so all timbers are fixed to the correct location and angle
Many Thanks for your interest, the received comments and remarks and all the likes received -- much appreciated
to be continued.....
it is really very helpful to have such a jig - so all timbers are fixed to the correct location and angle
Many Thanks for your interest, the received comments and remarks and all the likes received -- much appreciated
to be continued.....
Great looking work Uwek.
Bill
Bill
Pięknie pięknie i tyle Pozdrawiam Mirek
Beautifully beautiful and that's it. Regards Mirek
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Wonderfull clean work Uwe.
These scarph joints on the stern frames are just excellent executed, great detailing on this kit by Tom.
These scarph joints on the stern frames are just excellent executed, great detailing on this kit by Tom.
First of all many thanks to all for the kind words and comments
I was in the beginning of preparing the frames checking the / my possibilities to use the way the kit is prepared. But I came to the conclusion for me, that the result will be not satisfying myself. Therefore I decided to prepare all the frames in the conventional way and cut / split the hull later on, I guess directly under the wales.
Somehow in the way it was done by @Maarten on his model. But to make here a final decision I have to wait to get also part III of the kit, so I am able to complete the complete deck structure in order to get it riggid / stiff as possible with all knees, carlings and beams.
The execution of the interior, walls and the structure of the mortars has to wait until the deck is cut away...... this is the actual plan...... let us see
but definitely in moment I plan to make my model similar to the NMM-model
Hallo Daniel,
I was in the beginning of preparing the frames checking the / my possibilities to use the way the kit is prepared. But I came to the conclusion for me, that the result will be not satisfying myself. Therefore I decided to prepare all the frames in the conventional way and cut / split the hull later on, I guess directly under the wales.
Somehow in the way it was done by @Maarten on his model. But to make here a final decision I have to wait to get also part III of the kit, so I am able to complete the complete deck structure in order to get it riggid / stiff as possible with all knees, carlings and beams.
The execution of the interior, walls and the structure of the mortars has to wait until the deck is cut away...... this is the actual plan...... let us see
but definitely in moment I plan to make my model similar to the NMM-model
Good evening Uwe. Spent some time catching up here. I didn’t want to send a hundred likes. Totally out of my league- I echo all the compliments you have deserved. Brilliant. Cheers Grant
Hi Uwek,
Closely following your log - cant wait to start after the Bismarck is completed. I will plank fully one side and have exposed frames on the other - no split hull although its tempting. I will have to substitute the lamintated keel parts which shouldnt be to much work. Look forward to seeing your progress continue.
Closely following your log - cant wait to start after the Bismarck is completed. I will plank fully one side and have exposed frames on the other - no split hull although its tempting. I will have to substitute the lamintated keel parts which shouldnt be to much work. Look forward to seeing your progress continue.
Starting with section II of the kit
One of the first working steps are preparing of the temporary templates which are necessary / hepful also for the correct levels of the deck clamps, which have to be installed in one of the next steps
All together four of these templates have to be prepared - here template 1 and 2 finished and parts of 3 on the right side
all four templates prepared
on each side you can see the notches for the correct height of the deck clamps
the six square holes in the center part will be used later on for the correct height of the mortar structure beams
A very clever idea - so this time no need to use the laser to mark the heights ......
Many Thanks for your interest ..... to be continued .....
One of the first working steps are preparing of the temporary templates which are necessary / hepful also for the correct levels of the deck clamps, which have to be installed in one of the next steps
All together four of these templates have to be prepared - here template 1 and 2 finished and parts of 3 on the right side
all four templates prepared
on each side you can see the notches for the correct height of the deck clamps
the six square holes in the center part will be used later on for the correct height of the mortar structure beams
A very clever idea - so this time no need to use the laser to mark the heights ......
Many Thanks for your interest ..... to be continued .....
Very interesting construction, the center piece with the long holes can be adjusted and if so, for what purpose.
Without this movable center part it would be hard to install the templates inside the hull without damaging the template
These templates are to be installed at the gunports
The upper width if the hull is smaller than on the height of the waterline
red markings are the width at the gunports - orange the width where the beam clamps have to be installed
at template 1 I marked the movements with arrows
1) bringing the template inside the hull without the middle part, until it is laying on top of the sills of the gunports - with a reduced width of the template
2) when it is at the correct height inside the hull move both sideparts until they have contact with the frame (green arrows)
3) the last will be pushing down the center part so you have rigged and stiff template fitting well inside the frame
4) to remove the template you have to remove first the center part - otherwise it is not possible
Uwek, you are really making our life easier when the time will come to assemble this kit. All these details .... Thank you !!!
Daniel
Thanks Uwe, extremely helpful and very descriptive. Avery thoughtful auxiliary design.
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Wow, a very interesting design and approach to achieving consistent results for modelers. Thanks for sharing Uwe.
In order to make the next working steps, it was time to fianly fix the keelson on the frames.
Some small adjustments at the hook scarf joints, but al together the elements of the keeson fitted very good
- I used the standard copper bolts to "fix" the keelson with the frames, and tried to follow the technically correct bolting pattern shown in deverse books like Goodwin and Lavery
Many Thanks for you kind interest in my building log - happy to get comments (also critics, negative and positive)
to be continued .....
Some small adjustments at the hook scarf joints, but al together the elements of the keeson fitted very good
- I used the standard copper bolts to "fix" the keelson with the frames, and tried to follow the technically correct bolting pattern shown in deverse books like Goodwin and Lavery
Many Thanks for you kind interest in my building log - happy to get comments (also critics, negative and positive)
to be continued .....