HMS Jalouse - Caldercraft by Ted

I completed the deck planks. When about half done I demolished one side for being ragged. Despite trying to get the planks the same width the variance caused the whole exercise to be what I think to be subpar. I'm going to live with it as I don't want to go to the expense and delay by buying replacement wood.
Also note the four plank pattern is somewhat askew. I was trying to use the plans but the fact that I used 4mm wide wood vs the 3mm called for in the plans caused some confusion and I got off.
At any rate nom having fun and have no audience other than myself.
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While not exactly an issue, it would have benefited the overall impression of the model if you would have used the 3mm floorboards ilo the 4mm you used. It's not always possible, but it is visually greatly more appealing if you're able to stay true to scale.
 
Ted Robinson said:
Initial painting complete. Instructions call for installing copper plates at this time but I'm going to plank the deck first so the copper plates don't get damaged View attachment 514114

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Ted! She's looking great! I agree with you 100% on the plan that you have already executed, late to the party as usual Chuck, to copper after planking the deck. You're right about the risks to the copper! As to the paint, I have been down the road you are traveling to get the yellow ocher opaque but not gloppy. I have tried a number of acrylics including liquitex. They have to be thinned enough to brush so that they won't be gloppy and wind up translucent. You're better off with a paint formulated for models like the model shipways color you used. Keep up the great work!

Looking forward to your next installments!

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
The Gavel said:
Ted! She's looking great! I agree with you 100% on the plan that you have already executed, late to the party as usual Chuck, to copper after planking the deck. You're right about the risks to the copper! As to the paint, I have been down the road you are traveling to get the yellow ocher opaque but not gloppy. I have tried a number of acrylics including liquitex. They have to be thinned enough to brush so that they won't be gloppy and wind up translucent. You're better off with a paint formulated for models like the model shipways color you used. Keep up the great work!

Looking forward to your next installments!

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
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Thank you
 
RDN1954 said:
While not exactly an issue, it would have benefited the overall impression of the model if you would have used the 3mm floorboards ilo the 4mm you used. It's not always possible, but it is visually greatly more appealing if you're able to stay true to scale.
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I agree with you.
There were only about half of the needed 3mm planks in the kit. There were also a insufficient number of 4 mm planks and they were walnut. I used planks from stock but was not able to trim them down to 3 mm without them splitting.
 
I masked the outer gun port frames. The plans don't show them painted but other finished models of the Jalouse show them painted. I'm not getting much done every day but still fighting a few health problems. I plan to be stronger and more productive in the near future.
BTW Tamiya masking tape can't be beat.
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I painted the outer gun port frames.
Found some 2x2mm walnut stock to make waterways. None indicated on the plans or instructions. The only other stock I have is 1x3mm walnut. It's too wide to fit in front of the cannons.
I'm sure this is out of scale but think it better to dress up the deck planking bulwark junction than to omit the waterways.
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Well that didn't work out. The wood was really brittle and didn't match anything.
I resurveyed my stock and found three short pieces of 2x2mm lime wood. It's enough to make both waterways.
How should they be finished. Are they painted red to match the bulwarks, match the deck finish or something else.
Happy modeling
Ted
 
Ted Robinson said:
I masked the outer gun port frames. The plans don't show them painted but other finished models of the Jalouse show them painted. I'm not getting much done every day but still fighting a few health problems. I plan to be stronger and more productive in the near future.
BTW Tamiya masking tape can't be beat.
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How about painting the ports like this? Paint just the inner frames but not the exterior?Screenshot_20250424-212815_Chrome.jpg
 
Ted Robinson said:
Should I have painted the gun ports black
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Responded to your PM, but posting here as well for anyone interested.

It seems nothing is certain in this hobby of ours. For paint, I would look at photos of paintings and models built in that era. The ports were most often red on the inboard side and unpainted outboard although some may have been black outboard where the wales cross the ports (second photo below) or if in the Nelson Chequer style. There were also decorations on earlier ships on the inboard side, mainly lion heads. In short, the inboard face and the stops would be red, same as the spirketting and quickwork of the bulwarks. The waterway would usually be the same as the deck but there may have been exceptions. You can see the red paint stops at the spirketting and does not go onto the strake of the waterway in the pic below. The first two photos were taken during a visit to Preble Hall, Annapolis, many moons ago. The last photo shows the Nelson Chequer pattern with the outboard side of the ports painted black. Considering the year of Jalouse 1809, this may be the most appropriate for the outboard side of the ports. In the end, you have choices so can pick what you like best as any of these may be appropriate.
Allan

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How correct you are. I'm not happy with the black gunports surrounds but am probably going to keep it. I think the overall finish would be harmed but trying to strip off all the paint and redo it.
 
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