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HMS Jalouse - Caldercraft by Ted

Ted Robinson said:
Nice photo. This will be my first attempt at coppering. Single pieces not tape. If I hack it at least follow ups will be better.
Starting to get attached to this build.
I'm still attracted to the San Felipe. Halfway decided on the ZHL model. I think it is the same company that did the Bluenose but not sure.
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Ted! Sorry for so many replies. It's late and I should be in bed ROTF The good news about the copper plates is that they can be taken off fairly easily if you have made a mistake without damage to the underlying hull. At least that's what I was able to do with the plates I made from the copper tape I sourced from Blue Jacket. The adhesive on the back was strong enough for good attachment but when I made a mistake I could lift a corner with a #11 blade and peel the plate off without disturbing the other plates. I hope your plates work that way.

Gonna pipe down now.

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
The Gavel said:
I don't think any amount of sheathing would have prevented the galvanic reaction from corrupting the gudgeons and pintles and shortening the lifespan of the rudder attachment
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Agreed this would be a problem. Bimetallic corrosion will occur between copper and iron when they are in contact and exposed to salt water which acts as an electrolyte. If the hinge parts are iron they would corrode first, and if covered, no one would know until it was too late. OR were the earliest attempts just having iron components on top of the copper because the cause of galvanic action was unknown. We had the same problem with bronze propellors and iron hulls but there were sacrificial pieces of zinc secured in the area if the propellors which protected both hull and prop.
Allan
 
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The Gavel said:
Allen! I think they had to be made of copper. If they were iron and attached to the copper sheathing on the hull I don't think any amount of sheathing would have prevented the galvanic reaction from corrupting the gudgeons and pintles and shortening the lifespan of the rudder attachments. Not an expert, but I can't see it any other way.

Blessings.
Chuck
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I agree. Not an expert either though I've spent a lot of time on real aircraft try to keep galvanic situations from occuring.
 
Everyone has her/his favorite methods, but I find it easier to start a strake of planking at the bow as getting to fit nicely into the rabbet can be tricky. Then you can work aft with each piece of planking for a given strake to the stern post where making the cut to fit the last plank of the strake is usually much easier. Where the planks end at the bottom of the lower counter it is also tricky but will be covered with the tuck molding so the ends of the strakes at that area will not be seen.
Allan

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Certainly one thing to say about caldercraft ropes, and matching if you run out they're not really done by thickness they do there's by weight. Never really understood it

Ted Robinson said:
The ropes in the Caldercraft kit are impressive in my limited experience.
Does anyone know how ow the Caldercraft ropes compare to after market ropes such as Ropes of Scale?
I'll be starting the model View attachment 490818as soon as I finish rigging the Bluenose.View attachment 490854
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AllanKP69 said:
Everyone has her/his favorite methods, but I find it easier to start a strake of planking at the bow as getting to fit nicely into the rabbet can be tricky. Then you can work aft with each piece of planking for a given strake to the stern post where making the cut to fit the last plank of the strake is usually much easier. Where the planks end at the bottom of the lower counter it is also tricky but will be covered with the tuck molding so the ends of the strakes at that area will not be seen.
Allan

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I'm a little bit stuck here. My plans don't show any rabbits and my enquires went unanswered. I'm tapering the planks to level.
Nice model
 
AllanKP69 said:
I don't understand how there can be no rabbet. There should be a rabbet at the stern post, along the keel and up the stem. Something does not sound right. There should be a rabbet in which the planking seats.
Allan
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Still none n the plans. My lack of experience led me into the situation I now face. Will make the best of it as u have few options and they all use materials I don't have.
I think I will make all of, even if not realistically to scale
 
Well, after 5 minutes of sanding I'm really pleased with this side. I'll do a little more and then apply the wood putty below the waterline. I'm satisfied with the mating of the planking above the waterline. The first two photos are the Starboard side the second two are the Port. The Port side has more thorough sanding.IMG20250330085051.jpgIMG20250330085055.jpgIMG20250330084556.jpgIMG20250330084603.jpg
 
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The plans call for yellow paint on the bulwarks. The new Salmon color that has been established as correct clashes with my mind. On addition my wife prefers the ochre. Would Vallejo Ochre be appropriate?
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I doubt any two ships in 1809 had the exact same hue of yellow, but at that time the Nelson chequer was predominant. Look at some contemporary paintings on the RMG Collections website of ships from about 1805 for some ideas. The yellow in the paintings of course may be off from the originals after so many years, but something to get an idea. Some examples follow. No reason I can think of why you cannot choose whatever you feel is the best representation.
Allan
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AllanKP69 said:
I doubt any two ships in 1809 had the exact same hue of yellow, but at that time the Nelson chequer was predominant. Look at some contemporary paintings on the RMG Collections website of ships from about 1805 for some ideas. The yellow in the paintings of course may be off from the originals after so many years, but something to get an idea. Some examples follow. No reason I can think of why you cannot choose whatever you feel is the best representation.
Allan
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Thank you. I think I will go with the ochre.
 
The hull is sanded, ready for paint and masking tape placed.
When watching online builds some of the builders use primer. Most don't.
I will be using Mission Models Ochre and Tamiya Flat Black. Should I primer first.

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Ted Robinson said:
The first coat went on translucent. Will try a.second coat and report back View attachment 511665
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Ah, this is a very bright yellow coloured ‘ochre’. If I had realised this would be your shade I’d have strongly advised priming with a white or pink primer. A thin one that wouldn’t obscure your wood texture but which would cover the variations in the wood’s colours.

Yellow is notoriously poor in opacity. I think of ochre as a yellowish brown and brown paint is good in this respect. My apologies.
 
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