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HMS Jalouse - Caldercraft by Ted

Here's the first coat of flat black enamel. I haven't sanded it.
Should I send and do another coat. I like seeing the grain thru the paintIMG20250715165738.jpgIMG20250715165755.jpgIMG20250715165746.jpg17526240466794349462872788969774.jpg
 
Argh, this is so frustrating. U work so hard to make a decent looking part and do have the ability to apply a decent finish.
When
I've tried acrylic paint but it doesn't sand well. Now trying enamel but had to thin it to keep it from being uneven. Now I have a splotchy finish.
I really need to find a material/method that is consistent and gives a superior finish.
 
Argh, this is so frustrating. U work so hard to make a decent looking part and do have the ability to apply a decent finish.
When
I've tried acrylic paint but it doesn't sand well. Now trying enamel but had to thin it to keep it from being uneven. Now I have a splotchy finish.
I really need to find a material/method that is consistent and gives a superior finish.
Whenever feasible, I would sand any part, unless the size of the part is such that I, in all honesty, cannot manipulate the part anymore. Sanding does not remove the grain; too many layers of paint do.
As far as applying finish goes, I prefer to stick to one system per part or assembly. Mixing will have unexpected, unwanted results. I might use a colored stain to obtain a possibly darker appearance, always followed by a transparent topcoat. Depending on the look I'm after the topcoat might be semi-gloss or matt (more often than not I'll apply semi-gloss, since I like the appearance). The topcoat must be compatible with the paint system you selected.

Furthermore, a lot has been written on applying any finish, it might be worth your time searching for some more information on this topic on this or any other forum.
 
Whenever feasible, I would sand any part, unless the size of the part is such that I, in all honesty, cannot manipulate the part anymore. Sanding does not remove the grain; too many layers of paint do.
As far as applying finish goes, I prefer to stick to one system per part or assembly. Mixing will have unexpected, unwanted results. I might use a colored stain to obtain a possibly darker appearance, always followed by a transparent topcoat. Depending on the look I'm after the topcoat might be semi-gloss or matt (more often than not I'll apply semi-gloss, since I like the appearance). The topcoat must be compatible with the paint system you selected.

Furthermore, a lot has been written on applying any finish, it might be worth your time searching for some more information on this topic on this or any other forum.
Thank you. Just venting my frustration at not achieving the results I want.
 
My first attempt at lashing an eyebolt to a single block. I took me about 8-10 minutes and I just noticed it isn't right enough to against the block.
I'm sure my time and ability will improve with repetition.IMG20250717163801.jpgIMG20250717163841.jpg
 
I just received the copper plates from Drydock Models.They are beautiful.
The web page didn't list that they came as one sheet for Port side the other for Starboard. Since I need about 75 percent of the plates I purchased I will start some.fromthe top and some from the next bottom.
They are approximately .5 mm shorter in height and about 1.5 mm shorter in length.
Out of all the copper plates I found for a sale these were the closest I could find. Particularly I regard to the nailing pattern.
So I now have 200 plus Caldercraft/Jokita copper plates available for another modeler who is in short supply.IMG20250719152149.jpgIMG20250719152220.jpg



IMG20250719153204.jpg
 
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