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HMS Royal Caroline kit ZHL 1/30

naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa......chickened out :(:)...at 80 i don't feel that secure about my future...so i do things which require short resolutions ....but but but.....there's always that small chance....haha my wife wants me to do it, would you believe?.....
 
yancovitch said:
naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa......chickened out :(:)...at 80 i don't feel that secure about my future...so i do things which require short resolutions ....but but but.....there's always that small chance....haha my wife wants me to do it, would you believe?.....
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Vic, just remember 80 is the new 60, so still plenty of time for a new build. The Royal Caroline wil take you a year. 8-)
 
haha...you mean it will take you a year:D:D:D ...me i have to use four different diopter glasses for different distances.....a real hassle ......and having difficulty with the dust and glues etc....watching your build is about my speed now.....
 
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Maarten said:
Thx to @mati.n I found a new perfect product for tarring my ropes.
I have tested real Stockholmer tar which is more difficult to work with.

Mati uses bitumen of judea for tarring ropes. He dillutes it and finally uses a top layer to reduce static electricity atracting dust to the poly rope.
Here in the Netherlands I couldn t find clear bitumen of Judea but found maybe an even better solution.
What I found is etching primer which contains bitumen of judea but also beewax, so it tarres the rope and seals it with beewax.
The product is from Charbonell called liquid etching ground.
View attachment 221771

It dries quickly and is very simple to apply, even with a brush.
Cabinet makers use it also for aging furnature, so also made a test on wood, it gives a wonderfull warm coloring which I keep in mind for my next build.
View attachment 221773
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Ordered..... The results are looking very good
 
Hi Maarten!
Good job! I recommend to make an experiment with "Charbonell liquid etching ground" and wood strips: first coat for wood strips with beewax /oil / varnish. When dry, topcoat with your "Charbonell liquid etching ground". For the sake of variety, the quantity of coats of beewax / oil / varnish and "Charbonell liquid etching ground" cood be varied.
 
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DST07 said:
I'm catching up. Always a real joy to read several pages of this interesting build!
So the "carvings" of this kit are not "finished" but prepared for final carve work?!
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In principle the carvings in the kit are finished, you only have to clean the edges.
I actually went a step further by making the carvings more refined and 3D instead of 2,5D.
Some of the carvings like the figure head I replaced with my own full 3D carvings.
But in respect to carvings provided this is one of the best kits on the market.
 
Archi said:
Hi Maarten!
Good job! I recommend to make an experiment with "Charbonell liquid etching ground" and wood strips: first coat for wood strips with beewax /oil / varnish. When dry, topcoat with your "Charbonell liquid etching ground". For the sake of variety, the quantity of coats of beewax / oil / varnish and "Charbonell liquid etching ground" cood be varied.
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Hi Archi,

This is what I will definately test for my next build.
 
For us, modelers in the US, the Charbonell liquid etching ground is a dream, unless we can find a similar or substitution product. The shipping cost is unreasonably expensive. I recently contacted Maarten to help obtain this product, but the shipping was twice(or even 3 times) the cost of the actual product. :(
 
Jimsky said:
For us, modelers in the US, the Charbonell liquid etching ground is a dream, unless we can find a similar or substitution product. The shipping cost is unreasonably expensive. I recently contacted Maarten to help obtain this product, but the shipping was twice(or even 3 times) the cost of the actual product. :(
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Agreed Jim. It seems bitumen of judea and it's derivatives is too 'dangerous' for the american consumer so it has to be obtained overseas. I am going to try out a bitumen for decoupage similar to what mati is using. If it works I'll report it on my log.
 
dockattner said:
Agreed Jim. It seems bitumen of judea and it's derivatives is too 'dangerous' for the american consumer so it has to be obtained overseas. I am going to try out a bitumen for decoupage similar to what mati is using. If it works I'll report it on my log.
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Thanks, Paul! Looking forward to your try report. ;)
 
yancovitch said:
3D instead of 2,5D. :p
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All cnc carvings in this kit are made with a standard router. To create 3D carvings they create two 2D halves which you glue together creating one figure. But you can image if you carve queen Caroline from the side with a 2D router she doesn't get a face etc, therefore I call this 2,5D 8-)
I don t like 2,5D so I carved my own or used the original figure and recarved it.
 
dockattner said:
Agreed Jim. It seems bitumen of judea and it's derivatives is too 'dangerous' for the american consumer so it has to be obtained overseas. I am going to try out a bitumen for decoupage similar to what mati is using. If it works I'll report it on my log.
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Haha, sometimes the usa still suprises me, bitumen of Judea is too dangerous but you can buy a gun at the local hardware store. :-)
 
dockattner said:
Not good for sportsmen - but that should free you up for more ship building...

BTW - my ropewalk left Russia this morning. Looking forward to trying some of Maarten's tricks for tarring ropes...if the bitumen doesn't kill me first!
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May I ask what ropewalk that is?
I build one a long time ago but it its use is somewhat "complicated" and didn't work too well.
 
DST07 said:
May I ask what ropewalk that is?
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Dan, check this out

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Model Tools And Supplies | ShipWorkshop

ShipWorkshop is a workshop where we design and produce special tools and supplies for ship model builders which will make your ship model look authentic. We'll be glad to help you to design custom tools for your needs. Mechanical and electronics engineering are available.
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