HMS Sovereign of the Seas - Bashing DeAgostini Beyond Believable Boundaries

Most of the guns on the port side lower gun deck are now finished, with gun tackles carefully hooked and secured to their eyebolts with a bit of CA glue, then tightened. The bitter ends of the tackle falls are glued to the deck, and coils were made and place just over the ends. The coils look like extension of the falls. In the vice, you can see the little platform that has double face tape on it, and three coils. The coils are coated with PVA glue, then quick dried with a heat gun.

446 Rigging Gun Tackles Port Side.jpg

447 Rigging Gun Tackles.jpg
 
Most of the guns on the port side lower gun deck are now finished, with gun tackles carefully hooked and secured to their eyebolts with a bit of CA glue, then tightened. The bitter ends of the tackle falls are glued to the deck, and coils were made and place just over the ends. The coils look like extension of the falls. In the vice, you can see the little platform that has double face tape on it, and three coils. The coils are coated with PVA glue, then quick dried with a heat gun.

View attachment 269180

View attachment 269181
How will you keep sawdust from coming through the ports? You still have some outside cutting and sanding to do, don’t you?
 
How will you keep sawdust from coming through the ports? You still have some outside cutting and sanding to do, don’t you?
This is what happens when you have a tattoo that says: I
cross-out-clipart-1.png
dummy guns.
 
How will you keep sawdust from coming through the ports? You still have some outside cutting and sanding to do, don’t you?
Sawdust control is always a problem. Compressed air cannot always dislodge sawdust particles that get stuck on varnish or painted finishes. While I was cutting the stern and bow supports earlier, I could use a soft bristled paint brush to free the stuck particles from corners, the deck finish, and other dust traps so air could blow them away. Later in the build, sanding the hull would introduce the problem of sawdust getting into the lower decks. I could carefully tape over the lower gun ports and barrels while cutting the upper gun ports. At that point, only compressed air can be used. Sanding the outer hull on the final layer of planking will be a particular challenge. I hope I can be careful enough not to whack off gun barrels with a sanding block.
 
Why sanding? You can also scrape with a scraper. The sanding dust does not get into the wood grain and the dust does not get everywhere.
 
T

Thanks for that- my tools are limited so another one on my shopping list .....:D
Modifying the cutting blades will also get your some more use. The original Dremel cutter is the black one. The shiny silver one is made of stainless steel and is from and aftermarket source, and is a universal cutter purchased off Amazon.com. That cutter has been ground so it is narrower allowing it to be used to cut smaller slots, such as in making smaller gun port holes than is possible with the black cutter.

20211114_063708.jpg
 
Scarping the curved hull like you would a relatively flat deck? Please tell us more about this technique and the tools used. I'm intrigued.
Kurt, something like this. You can have larger size scrapers, I bought one set in Rockler for $20.00


T233.jpg
 
Just hold them under a straight curve on the wood. Works perfect. I thinks the book Plank on frame models, harold a underhill vol.I explains how.
 
HMS Sovereign of the Seas - Bashing DeAgostini Beyond Believable Boundaries - by DARIVS ARCHITECTVS

Well, I just finished La Couronne and its display case a few hours ago, and swore that I would take a break before starting another project.

That didn't happen. On to Ship #2.

Research on building HMS Sovereign of the Seas started almost immediately. I opened Issues 1-15 of the kit and started pouring through their contents, eager to work on the one ship which is the greatest inspiration above all others. The first problem reared its ugly head immediately. The false keel assembly does not include the keel itself, ending at the garboard strake of planking. I could not use my multi-position keel vice that served my so well while building La Couronne! That meant that the base jig in the DeAgostini instructions has to be built and used. The keel is attached later in assembly, and I'm afraid that it won't be strong enough to use the keel vice, and one accidental bump on the hull will break the keel off, leaving the wrecked hull rolling on the floor. I guess I'll have to be careful.

Some more observations. This model has a complete lower gun deck, unlike Corel's La Couronne, so it will be easy to replace the false half-barrel cannons with complete carriages. (Don't look at me like that, Dockattner... You may take ALL the shortcuts you want! Not THIS sailor.) Because the kit instructions are scattered across 135 packages in magazines, the steps for assembling multiple similar items like cannons are also scattered, and there are no blueprints or rigging drawings to refer to that give you the complete picture of how elements like lines, decorations and other landmarks used in measuring are positioned, relative to each other and the hull overall. This is quite different than working from the two general arrangement drawings and seven rigging drawings that helps you classify and keep track of what you are working on, and where something goes.

Just to get something done, the first frame pieces of the bow were glued together, and some wood metal "L" brackets for making the base jig were purchased. There is still one more piece of wood to purchase before the base jig can be completed and the false keel assembled. Since I wanted to use those GORGEOUS Amati cast decorations on this model, the problem remains whether or not they would fit because the scales between the Amati and DeAgostini models are slightly different. Laying the false keel bulkheads on the Amati plans shows that they may actually be close enough to allow use of most of the Amati decorations. Each decoration, Amati or DeAgostini, will have to be chose based on how close to the Payne description of the decorations they are. Perhaps in some cases neither will work, and scratch built decorations will have to be made, which I do not have the patience, tools or talent to do. Carving is a slow, high risk task for me. Too much can go wrong. After all, I'm an engineer (Architectus in Latin), not an artist.

Many things will be replaced in this white metal casting, plywood ridden, arguably accurate DeAgostini kit. LET THE BASHING BEGIN.

It looks like somebody broke the sprit topmast, or it that just he camera lens effect?

This is NOT what the kit build would look like. This is the scratch built Italian made model that the simplified kit approximates, and falls short of
Hallo my friend, Hallo @DARIVS ARCHITECTVS
we wish you all the Best and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
Thanks to all you guys! The last three guns on the port side were rigged with gun tackles today. Small steps, but time consuming ones. The deck coils were added last.

PVA glue on coils of line stuck to double faced tape. Note the coils on the far left had watered down glue used to make them, and it soaked through, darkening the coils. Use PVA full strength and this doesn't happen.
448 Making Deck Coils.jpg

Deck coils are placed such that they appear to be connected to the gun tackle falls, but are not.
449 Rigged Remaining Port Side Guns.jpg
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS
My goodness. You got your hands full again.
I forgot where but I read an essay from a modeler speaking that after a big build, he would do something smaller and easier so he wont get exasperated if the new build got problematical.
That theory strokes a cord with me and I have been doing that with satisfactory results.
But that is only I.
Maybe my age voices me to go that path, but I also understand that other modelers like you with more enthusiast and eagerness can easily jump from a complicated build to another and even sometimes more complex since they feel more comfortable after overcoming past glitches with the last built.
 
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