WOW, I thought one is more than enough,
but having two.... How awesome it is!
HMS Victory [1805] 1:79 by serikoff. Started with Mantua -> Upgraded with John McKay's Anatomy.
but having two.... How awesome it is!
Here's one
Yes, I know, you are absolutely right. But as I wrote, I couldn't make such a shape and made a round one. There are already many inaccuracies in the model, and since it is not for a competition, I allowed myself such liberty))
This is exactly about me)))There is a saying here, “Necessity is the mother of invention.”
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WOW, I thought one is more than enough,
Аhahahhaahhah
the most painful in palate... Ouch....
Today, we'll take a brief detour.
I've mentioned before that Victory is not my first ship. My first attempt was an unfinished brig called "Mercury."
Since I had been working with airplanes before I started building ships and had a lot of balsa wood on hand, I built my entire first ship out of balsa. The advantages are that it's very light and easy to work with. But the downsides are that it doesn't take oil finishes well, lacks a noble appearance, and doesn't paint well. The only thing I didn't try at the time was enamel spray paints and primers, which probably would have worked. But it is what it is—experience is experience.
Today, I just wanted to share a few photos of this "wonder." For the most part, aside from the bow and stern with the rudder, everything was almost complete. All that was left was to assemble, paint, and rig it... But then I completely shifted my focus to Victory.
This is the only photo I have with my ships. This photo was actually taken on a film camera!
It was taken in 2003 when I was 18 years old.
How do you like my first attempt?)))
I've mentioned before that Victory is not my first ship. My first attempt was an unfinished brig called "Mercury."
Since I had been working with airplanes before I started building ships and had a lot of balsa wood on hand, I built my entire first ship out of balsa. The advantages are that it's very light and easy to work with. But the downsides are that it doesn't take oil finishes well, lacks a noble appearance, and doesn't paint well. The only thing I didn't try at the time was enamel spray paints and primers, which probably would have worked. But it is what it is—experience is experience.
Today, I just wanted to share a few photos of this "wonder." For the most part, aside from the bow and stern with the rudder, everything was almost complete. All that was left was to assemble, paint, and rig it... But then I completely shifted my focus to Victory.
This is the only photo I have with my ships. This photo was actually taken on a film camera!
It was taken in 2003 when I was 18 years old.
How do you like my first attempt?)))
To everyone who was interested in the Chinese alternative to the Proxxon saw, here’s a great article that explains how to upgrade the saw, specifically its side guide. I highly recommend checking out this link >>> Upgrading and Improving the Chinese Saw —I’m sure you’ll find the information useful!
By the way, this idea was developed by my acquaintance and the administrator of my forum, who, like me, is already here with you.
![IMG_20200220_233556[2].jpg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/463/463980-7d10dd24ea57ae37fdbeeda007b1bd63.jpg?hash=vmIdWD-koD "IMG_20200220_233556[2].jpg")
Dziękuję bardzo!
It’s very good. I mean the balsa one. You achieved very neat and sharp results despite the softness of the wood.
Thank you very much.
Balsa wood is easy to work with. It cuts perfectly along the grain, like cutting through butter with an ordinary blade. No need for sanding. However, it doesn’t cut across the grain at all—it just crushes and crumbles. That’s why you need to cut with some excess and then sand down the rest.
But this material is definitely not suitable for our purposes, only for model airplanes due to its lightweight nature.
Except for filler blocks to assist planking, which I find very useful. Not essential but definitely a help.
Oh yyyyyyes, I did that on the Victory. It significantly sped up the sanding time.
04.2024
So, let's continue our building diary.
Wrapping up the issue with the rails, I made the CHAIN WALES (rustlijn). For now, I’ve only cut them out in terms of perimeter and thickness, made pins for reinforcing the connection with the hull, and that’s it for now. I will return to them later. I still need to make the mounting spots for the CHAIN PLATES, the lower supports, and paint them.
For now, I’ve only test-fitted them in their places to see if everything fits well.
Next, I decided to make the grating near the main mast. They will be removable, meaning the frames will be fixed to the hull while the gratings can be taken out.
To start, I made the gratings with cutouts for the rigging beams (I don’t remember what they’re called), and then I glued the frames around them.
As I mentioned, the gratings with frames are removable. I just need to round off the frames a bit and glue them into the hull.
...
So, let's continue our building diary.
Wrapping up the issue with the rails, I made the CHAIN WALES (rustlijn). For now, I’ve only cut them out in terms of perimeter and thickness, made pins for reinforcing the connection with the hull, and that’s it for now. I will return to them later. I still need to make the mounting spots for the CHAIN PLATES, the lower supports, and paint them.
For now, I’ve only test-fitted them in their places to see if everything fits well.
Next, I decided to make the grating near the main mast. They will be removable, meaning the frames will be fixed to the hull while the gratings can be taken out.
To start, I made the gratings with cutouts for the rigging beams (I don’t remember what they’re called), and then I glued the frames around them.
As I mentioned, the gratings with frames are removable. I just need to round off the frames a bit and glue them into the hull.
...
Nice work. I too build balsa rubber free flight planes. Ive been on your forum I believe. Can you post a link to it to see if its the same one ?
I have the Proxxon saw this size. Its horrible. No power and only good for cutting very very thin stock or balsa. I hope to get the Proxxon FET soon.
Oh, wow. You've also switched from aviation to the navy! Previously, the site was called Serikoff Ship Models. Now the new domain is http://serikoff.ucoz.ru/. Unfortunately, apart from my review, all the information, particularly from the forum, has disappeared due to the war. I mentioned this earlier.
And speaking of my years related to aviation, here’s a photo with my teacher in the F2B class. This is control line modeling.
Yes, saws of such sizes are weak. I felt it myself. It cuts only up to 6-7 mm, with difficulty, and if it is thicker, it jams. But this improvement can help a lot. I think the idea will work for yours too. But if you have already taken a new one, then this is not so relevant.
Except for filler blocks to assist planking, which I find very useful. Not essential but definitely a help
04.2024
As I mentioned earlier, I decided to make a glass case to protect my model from dust and sunlight. I ordered it from an aquarium shop based on my measurements, 1000x350x250 mm. Essentially, it's an aquarium, just turned upside down. Here’s how I transported it)))
I also ordered a stand for it and attached aluminum corner brackets to it with silicone, so the glass could be placed inside. These brackets acted as stops to prevent the glass from shifting. The glass is 4 mm tempered glass glued with silicone adhesive for aquariums.
But more importantly, I applied a special film with an ultraviolet filter to the glass. While the model remains without an oil finish, it can naturally fade over time. This museum-grade film will prevent that from happening.
I also made a stand with handles to make it easier to transport the model. However, this stand will serve as a connecting link to the new stand, which I'll write about later.
And finally, while it's waiting, the ship sits like this. Neither dust nor sunlight is a threat, patiently awaiting its owner to continue building it.
How do you like the little house?
As I mentioned earlier, I decided to make a glass case to protect my model from dust and sunlight. I ordered it from an aquarium shop based on my measurements, 1000x350x250 mm. Essentially, it's an aquarium, just turned upside down. Here’s how I transported it)))
I also ordered a stand for it and attached aluminum corner brackets to it with silicone, so the glass could be placed inside. These brackets acted as stops to prevent the glass from shifting. The glass is 4 mm tempered glass glued with silicone adhesive for aquariums.
But more importantly, I applied a special film with an ultraviolet filter to the glass. While the model remains without an oil finish, it can naturally fade over time. This museum-grade film will prevent that from happening.
I also made a stand with handles to make it easier to transport the model. However, this stand will serve as a connecting link to the new stand, which I'll write about later.
And finally, while it's waiting, the ship sits like this. Neither dust nor sunlight is a threat, patiently awaiting its owner to continue building it.
How do you like the little house?
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Er, where will the masts go?
With my assembly pace (when I can disappear for six months and have previously paused a project for up to 10 years), this box will remain quite small for a long time))) Seriously, though, this is just an intermediate case. By the time I finish the hull, the masts, and everything else, it will be a while before the ship gets too cramped in this box. And the dimensions of the cover for the entire ship are impressive... it’s scary to think about where to put it)))Er, where will the masts go?
I think it will need a room of its own. You might have to sleep in the car.
Seriously, it looks very professional. Very smart.