HMS Victory [1805] 1:79 by serikoff. Started with Mantua -> Upgraded with John McKay's Anatomy.

[serikoff]

02.2024

So, the grates have been sanded, and it’s time to fit them to the hull.
The sanding is not final yet. I still need to round off the corners and perfect them.
Plus, I still need to make the bases for the cannonballs, which were placed around the entire perimeter of the grates.





The far ladder will barely be visible, but I decided to make it not as a simple imitation but with an actual staircase, for which I had to create an opening.



Since there is no deck below, the bottom part of the ladder will be suspended in the air. However, none of this will be visible. Only the upper part will be slightly visible. The other two ladders rest on the false lower deck, which I painted black, and it will also not be visible.


And after the final finishing, the gratings will look like this. All that remains is to add the stands for the cannonballs.
So, what do you think of the finished gratings?

 

[AllanKP69]

Your gratings themselves look to be very accurately made with the battens all running fore and aft and there are no holes/openings against the coamings and head ledges. It is hard to tell the height as they look a little shallow but it might be the photo. By a Navy Board Order of 1795 it was stipulated that the coamings and head ledges were built well clear of the deck, from about 15 inches to 18 inches above the deck so water did not get into the ship as easily as when they were lower in previous years. This height above the deck varied by deck. The sketch below may be more clear than the verbal description.
Allan

 

[dockattner]

Very nice Sergey. The scale of the gratings seems very appropriate. Pearwood? Beautiful.

 

[serikoff]

Your gratings themselves look to be very accurately made with the battens all running fore and aft and there are no holes/openings against the coamings and head ledges. It is hard to tell the height as they look a little shallow but it might be the photo. By a Navy Board Order of 1795 it was stipulated that the coamings and head ledges were built well clear of the deck, from about 15 inches to 18 inches above the deck so water did not get into the ship as easily as when they were lower in previous years. This height above the deck varied by deck. The sketch below may be more clear than the verbal description.
Allan
View attachment 479575

Thank you for your feedback. The height of the grates corresponds to the anatomy. I printed out the drawings at a 1:1 scale to match my project, and I measured the height accordingly. As for the radius, the curvature on the lower decks is minimal, and at this scale, the difference between the middle and side parts is hardly noticeable. That is, how much higher the middle part is compared to the sides. It’s enough to glue the two side pieces to the deck, and the curve will naturally appear due to the shape of the grating.

To ensure precision, I didn’t preset a curve into the grate itself, because at this scale on the lower deck, it’s not visually perceptible. When the grates aren’t yet glued down, they appear perfectly straight, which makes sense. However, on the upper deck, the radius of the grate will be slightly more pronounced. I’ll evaluate this when I start working on it and might add the curve during fabrication, which will be further emphasized once the grates are glued to the deck.


The lower deck grate is almost flat. But the radius is still visible, especially when compared to the flat grate under the anchor system. However, this radius will appear once it’s glued to the curved deck. I kept things simple on the lower deck because it's only clearly visible from above, and it’s impossible to see it from the side.


The upper deck grate will have a more pronounced radius with a noticeable difference in height between the middle and side parts.

Very nice Sergey. The scale of the gratings seems very appropriate. Pearwood? Beautiful.

Yes, I agree, the scale matches here. Everything is according to the anatomy. The frames are made from pear wood, and the color after oiling is just fantastic. As for the grates, they seem to be made of cherry or something similar. I ordered the comb pieces and can’t recall exactly what material they were made from. The important thing is that after applying the oil, the overall color turned out to my liking. Thank you.

 

[Smithy]

So, what do you think of the finished gratings?

Very good indeed. Thanks for the step by step guide to assembling them. I have some of the combs and your hack with the tape is very useful to me.

 

[serikoff]

Very good indeed. Thanks for the step by step guide to assembling them. I have some of the combs and your hack with the tape is very useful to me.

Glad to help. Yes, those comb pieces always cause a lot of trouble, constantly falling apart and getting mixed up. But the tape works wonders!

 

[AllanKP69]

The height of the grates corresponds to the anatomy.

Totally understood. As with any modern sources, replicas and rebuilds it is not a bad idea to check additional sources that are based on contemporary information. Even then, there are often differences from one source to another so it seems nothing is set in stone and what you have is probably exactly right.
Allan

 

[MAVERIK]

Vos caillebotis sont très réussis.
Et pour une fois, ils ne sont pas trop gros en maillage où le pied du marin pourrait passer à travers comme sur beaucoup de modèles !

 

[serikoff]

Totally understood. As with any modern sources, replicas and rebuilds it is not a bad idea to check additional sources that are based on contemporary information. Even then, there are often differences from one source to another so it seems nothing is set in stone and what you have is probably exactly right.
Allan

We have a proverb about this: mark seven times and cut once. I completely agree that you need to double-check all the information.

Vos caillebotis sont très réussis.
Et pour une fois, ils ne sont pas trop gros en maillage où le pied du marin pourrait passer à travers comme sur beaucoup de modèles !
View attachment 479748

It is for this reason that I refused the drawings from the set and never looked at them again. And I printed out the drawings from anatomy and only use them to take my measurements with precision instruments.

And in the sets, the boards are 2 or 3 times wider and the gratings are the same size as windows and many other simplifications. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Smithy]

simplifications

Surely this is the core definition of a model; ‘a representation of the original object simplified and reduced in size’.

And then we modellers have all the pleasure of re-making them as complicated as we possibly can.

 

[Chestcutter]

And after the final finishing, the gratings will look like this. All that remains is to add the stands for the cannonballs.
So, what do you think of the finished gratings?

The gratings look very nice indeed. Beautiful work Sergey. I look forward to your updates.

 

[serikoff]

Surely this is the core definition of a model; ‘a representation of the original object simplified and reduced in size’.

And then we modellers have all the pleasure of re-making them as complicated as we possibly can.

I absolutely agree!

The gratings look very nice indeed. Beautiful work Sergey. I look forward to your updates.

Thank you very much. While I keep a diary of the past, the material will be updated regularly and at a good pace. This is until I get to the present day, because then the updates will not be so frequent.

 

[Smithy]

the material will be updated regularly and at a good pace. This is until I get to the present day, because then the updates will not be so frequent

That is what I expected of my build log but now that I am up to date readers seem happy to have many small updates and lots of conversation.

 

[serikoff]

Part 14

03.2024

Completion of the planking. The end of a massive part of the work. And this era is concluded with the rails (shaped planks). I made them using the simplest method, which doesn’t require a router or any special tools—just a piece of sturdy steel, in my case, a saw blade.



On this saw blade (or you can use a file, though it takes longer), I used a rotary tool to carve out the profile of these shaped planks. (I'm a dentist, so a rotary tool is a familiar instrument for me))).


Then, the plank needs to be attached to a flat board using double-sided tape. Using longitudinal motions, scrape off all the excess wood from the plank until it takes the correct profile and the blade (scraper) meets the table. It's important to keep the tool strictly perpendicular and move it in one smooth, uninterrupted motion.

I made one plank from pink pearwood and two from boxwood. I oiled the pearwood and one of the boxwood pieces and compared them.


I liked the pearwood much more in terms of its combination with the bulwark. The boxwood became very yellow under the oil, which would have stood out too much from the overall tone in this case. So, I was fully convinced in my choice of pink pearwood for all the shaped planks.

Next, I began experimenting with the rounded part of the rails. I glued the blank to the shaft of the circular saw.


And with a small homemade chisel, I carved a round blank.



Then I sanded off all the excess around the perimeter.


And in the end, I got a fairly repeatable round rail (if it can be called that). Yes, they aren't exactly like the original ones, but carving them in the original shape would have been problematic. Plus, these will still look respectable.



Следующими сделал тонкие декоративные реечки. Тоже из розовой груши.




The planking already had prepared slots for these thin strips, so they easily fit into their 0.5 mm grooves.

Following the same principle, I began gluing the 3 mm wide rails, which form the waist of the channels. In other words, these rails will be positioned between the channels.




Above, I glued in 4 mm wide rails and round decorative pieces.





...

 

[Smithy]

Part 14

03.2024

Completion of the planking. The end of a massive part of the work. And this era is concluded with the rails (shaped planks). I made them using the simplest method, which doesn’t require a router or any special tools—just a piece of sturdy steel, in my case, a saw blade.

View attachment 479864

On this saw blade (or you can use a file, though it takes longer), I used a rotary tool to carve out the profile of these shaped planks. (I'm a dentist, so a rotary tool is a familiar instrument for me))).
View attachment 479865

Then, the plank needs to be attached to a flat board using double-sided tape. Using longitudinal motions, scrape off all the excess wood from the plank until it takes the correct profile and the blade (scraper) meets the table. It's important to keep the tool strictly perpendicular and move it in one smooth, uninterrupted motion.

I made one plank from pink pearwood and two from boxwood. I oiled the pearwood and one of the boxwood pieces and compared them.
View attachment 479866

I liked the pearwood much more in terms of its combination with the bulwark. The boxwood became very yellow under the oil, which would have stood out too much from the overall tone in this case. So, I was fully convinced in my choice of pink pearwood for all the shaped planks.

Next, I began experimenting with the rounded part of the rails. I glued the blank to the shaft of the circular saw.
View attachment 479867

And with a small homemade chisel, I carved a round blank.
View attachment 479868
View attachment 479869

Then I sanded off all the excess around the perimeter.
View attachment 479870

And in the end, I got a fairly repeatable round rail (if it can be called that). Yes, they aren't exactly like the original ones, but carving them in the original shape would have been problematic. Plus, these will still look respectable.

View attachment 479872

Следующими сделал тонкие декоративные реечки. Тоже из розовой груши.

View attachment 479873
View attachment 479874

The planking already had prepared slots for these thin strips, so they easily fit into their 0.5 mm grooves.

Following the same principle, I began gluing the 3 mm wide rails, which form the waist of the channels. In other words, these rails will be positioned between the channels.

View attachment 479875
View attachment 479876

Above, I glued in 4 mm wide rails and round decorative pieces.

View attachment 479878
View attachment 479879
View attachment 479880
View attachment 479881
...

This is just brilliant. A circular saw becomes a face turning lathe. An old hacksaw becomes a micro router. The results are excellent too.

So you are a dentist. That explains your exceptional hand skills.

 

[dockattner]

Very clever solution on the medallions.

What burs did you use in the rotary tool? Did you need to soften the saw blade and then re-harden it? I have been using scrapers from Artesania Latina but I need some custom profiles for the Kingfisher...

FYI: I'm a dentist too but stayed in school to be an orthodontist...

 

[serikoff]

This is just brilliant. A circular saw becomes a face turning lathe. An old hacksaw becomes a micro router. The results are excellent too.

So you are a dentist. That explains your exceptional hand skills.

Yes, I have to make things from everything that is nearby. The lack of tools is compensated by enthusiasm))))) Yes, I have been making things from wood with my hands since I was a child. At first I made models of airplanes and piloted them, and then I moved on to ships. Recently I accidentally found a photo of my first ship, which was completely made of balsa. Since I made airplanes from it. I never finished the brig, but I will post a photo here soon, it's cringe))

Very clever solution on the medallions.

What burs did you use in the rotary tool? Did you need to soften the saw blade and then re-harden it? I have been using scrapers from Artesania Latina but I need some custom profiles for the Kingfisher...

FYI: I'm a dentist too but stayed in school to be an orthodontist...

The bur used a cylindrical green one. No, it didn't soften or harden. The bur easily removed the excess, but the scraper removed the wood without problems. The main thing is that the grants were sharp.

Ooooh, so you are a colleague twice over)))) And I am an orthopedic therapist. I make veneers, crowns and fillings.

 

[dockattner]

cylindrical green one

green stone?

 

[MAVERIK]

Je me permets une remarque de détail sur les belles rosaces circulaires que tu as réalisées.

Elles ne sont pas circulaires mais plutôt en spirales.

 

[Smithy]

Yes, I have to make things from everything that is nearby. The lack of tools is compensated by enthusiasm))))

There is a saying here, “Necessity is the mother of invention.”