HMS Victory [1805] 1:79 by serikoff. Started with Mantua -> Upgraded with John McKay's Anatomy.

07.2023

Bitumen Patina...


Attention! I’d love to hear your thoughts. What do you think of this method, and how do you feel about the result after the bitumen coating? How does it look on the deck and on the sides?

Please share your opinions in the comments, and thanks in advance!


After it oil fully dried, I decided to try applying a bitumen coating right away. Based on Shevelev's recommendation, I used this one.
HMS Victory 281.jpg

It needs to be diluted with white spirit (though I didn’t use that because of the strong smell, instead, I used an odorless artist-grade paint thinner, and there's no difference between them). I diluted it by eye, roughly 1:10. I’ll do some tests before the final coating and specify exact proportions then. The application method is simple: one brush is used to apply the diluted bitumen, while a second, dry brush is immediately used to spread and remove most of the blackness, leaving bitumen only in the crevices and seams. This method ensures an even application.

I also noticed that before the bitumen has fully dried, you can almost completely remove it with a clean thinner. It may remain in some deeper spots, but overall, the coating will be almost gone. This is only true for pre-oiled surfaces. On dry wood, the bitumen will absorb deeply, which is not what you want. So, if you apply it and after a few minutes realize the surface is too dark, you can wipe it off from oiled wood. However, if too much time passes, the bitumen won’t come off.

As a side note, after a year, the coating remains very stable—it can’t be removed by wiping, only by sanding.

HMS Victory 282.jpg
HMS Victory 283.jpg

I also applied bitumen to the mock-up of the ship's side. I won’t spoil my own opinion just yet. I’m curious to hear what you think of the result. I've realized a lot through this process, but I’ll share my conclusions later after hearing your feedback!

HMS Victory 284.jpg
HMS Victory 285.jpg

*Don't pay attention to the completely black section on the right. It's just a test.

Comparing the samples with the hull, it's still hard to imagine how everything will look in the end, even though there will be many details added to the hull. In short, I will return to this topic later, but for now, I’m looking forward to your feedback.

HMS Victory 286.jpg
HMS Victory 287.jpg
HMS Victory 288.jpg
...
 
Last edited:
I’m looking forward to your feedback.

I like it. I like things to look old and battered. I think it makes them look more interesting. Like me!

The method you describe, application followed by well timed removal with thinners is something that I used to do to my plastic model kits as part of my 'weathering' processes. The only difference was that I used oil paints rather than a bitumen based product. I have not tried it on wood - yet.

One possible problem would be that the oil paint would soak into the surface too deeply to be removed. This would depend on the species of wood and whether or not it had been well sealed. Testing is essential.
 
I love the look of pear under oil. I used boiled linseed oil with swiss pear (steamed pear) on my Vasa and it has now taken on a lovely patina after a few years.

Adding bitumen of judea is really an artistic question. What sort of 'look' are you after? Obviously the bitumen gives a bit of aging...

Or is the question merely academic and you have already applied finish in real life?
 
I like it. I like things to look old and battered. I think it makes them look more interesting. Like me!

The method you describe, application followed by well timed removal with thinners is something that I used to do to my plastic model kits as part of my 'weathering' processes. The only difference was that I used oil paints rather than a bitumen based product. I have not tried it on wood - yet.

One possible problem would be that the oil paint would soak into the surface too deeply to be removed. This would depend on the species of wood and whether or not it had been well sealed. Testing is essential.
I tried using oil paints on top of oiled wood... but they simply don't adhere. You can easily wipe them off with a napkin. So, oil paints won't work on wood that's already been treated with oil. I'll be using oil paints for painting ropes, but that's a different story, which I'll share later. As a secret, SpeechlessI'll say that I, too, like the antique look of wood, but I'm curious to hear SoS's opinion.
I like it. I like things to look old and battered. I think it makes them look more interesting. Like me!
ROTF ROTF ROTF ROTF ROTF

I love the look of pear under oil. I used boiled linseed oil with swiss pear (steamed pear) on my Vasa and it has now taken on a lovely patina after a few years.

Adding bitumen of judea is really an artistic question. What sort of 'look' are you after? Obviously the bitumen gives a bit of aging...

Or is the question merely academic and you have already applied finish in real life?
Yes, I also really like the color of the pink pearwood under the bitumen. It's just beautiful. However, I don’t have much of it, and most of the wood I have is Daru and pearwood of a different color. So, this question is still relevant, as I haven’t coated anything yet. The hull is only painted with black stripes, which I will show later. I haven’t even applied oil yet. So, the question is still open. :rolleyes:
 
I tried using oil paints on top of oiled wood... but they simply don't adhere. You can easily wipe them off with a napkin. So, oil paints won't work on wood that's already been treated with oil. I'll be using oil paints for painting ropes, but that's a different story, which I'll share later. As a secret, SpeechlessI'll say that I, too, like the antique look of wood, but I'm curious to hear SoS's opinion.

ROTF ROTF ROTF ROTF ROTF


Yes, I also really like the color of the pink pearwood under the bitumen. It's just beautiful. However, I don’t have much of it, and most of the wood I have is Daru and pearwood of a different color. So, this question is still relevant, as I haven’t coated anything yet. The hull is only painted with black stripes, which I will show later. I haven’t even applied oil yet. So, the question is still open. :rolleyes:
I'm sure you know this but adhesion isn't quite as good when gluing to things treated with oil. Linseed oil isn't too bad but tung oil makes adhesion terrible. Waiting until later is a wise choice.
 
I'm sure you know this but adhesion isn't quite as good when gluing to things treated with oil. Linseed oil isn't too bad but tung oil makes adhesion terrible. Waiting until later is a wise choice.
Yes, of course, I know that PVA doesn’t bond with oil. That’s why I plan to apply the oil finish only after all the parts are glued in place. After the oil fully dries, cyanoacrylate glue will bond with the oiled surface. Still, it's better to apply the oil after the glue.

But you haven’t answered yet—what do you think of the result? How do you like the deck and the wood under the bitumen?
 
How do you like the deck and the wood under the bitumen?
Well, I sort of replied :). It's all a matter of taste. I have not built any 'aged' models so I guess that means I don't prefer that style. But I have seen magnificent examples so maybe one day...

Check out the work of Michele: enter 'Michele Padoan' in the search bar...
 
Well, I sort of replied :). It's all a matter of taste. I have not built any 'aged' models so I guess that means I don't prefer that style. But I have seen magnificent examples so maybe one day...

Check out the work of Michele: enter 'Michele Padoan' in the search bar...
I’m subscribed to him; I know him. But there's nothing else there—he uses different wood. As for my choice... I'm still wavering. I’ll coat the lowest deck with several layers and wait until it dries well to see the result. I’ll also try covering a section that’s almost invisible with bitumen. Then I’ll decide. If it looks great, I’ll coat all the decks; if not, it won’t be visible in the shadow of that area. The hull is more complicated. Here, it’s either take a risk or not.
 
To the entire SoS community, and especially to those who are following my posts (since I’m releasing this here), I want to offer a small visual gift.

I’ve created a thread in the competitions and championships section, where I’ll be posting photos from the Kyiv championships of 2013 and 2014.

Those were some of the best years, so enjoy!

IV Open Cup of Kyiv 2013

DSC_0272.JPG
DSC_0273.JPG

*Ah... I was 28 back then. Time flies...
 
Bonjour et merci pour toutes les informations que vous nous donnez sur votre excellent travail et les tests de couleurs pour vos terrasses.
Mon avis est que les ponts sont plutôt très clairs. Ceux-ci étaient brossés et nettoyés tous les jours lors des tâches de nettoyage par l’équipage.
Une petite photo du VICTORY à Porsthmouth.
1643268796676.jpeg
 
I could spend several days looking at the things on that table. With a lamp and a magnifying glass!
Oooooh yyyyyes, I spent hours there in person, walking around with my back bent, and then later I went through the photos at home.

Bonjour et merci pour toutes les informations que vous nous donnez sur votre excellent travail et les tests de couleurs pour vos terrasses.
Mon avis est que les ponts sont plutôt très clairs. Ceux-ci étaient brossés et nettoyés tous les jours lors des tâches de nettoyage par l’équipage.
Une petite photo du VICTORY à Porsthmouth.
View attachment 478320
Oui, les planches de terrasse étaient grises, mais je n'aime pas trop cette couleur. Le modèle doit être attractif, même s’il est en décalage avec la réalité. Merci pour vos commentaires et vos éloges.
 
07.2023

Bitumen Patina...


Attention! I’d love to hear your thoughts. What do you think of this method, and how do you feel about the result after the bitumen coating? How does it look on the deck and on the sides?

Please share your opinions in the comments, and thanks in advance!


After it oil fully dried, I decided to try applying a bitumen coating right away. Based on Shevelev's recommendation, I used this one.
View attachment 478203

It needs to be diluted with white spirit (though I didn’t use that because of the strong smell, instead, I used an odorless artist-grade paint thinner, and there's no difference between them). I diluted it by eye, roughly 1:10. I’ll do some tests before the final coating and specify exact proportions then. The application method is simple: one brush is used to apply the diluted bitumen, while a second, dry brush is immediately used to spread and remove most of the blackness, leaving bitumen only in the crevices and seams. This method ensures an even application.

I also noticed that before the bitumen has fully dried, you can almost completely remove it with a clean thinner. It may remain in some deeper spots, but overall, the coating will be almost gone. This is only true for pre-oiled surfaces. On dry wood, the bitumen will absorb deeply, which is not what you want. So, if you apply it and after a few minutes realize the surface is too dark, you can wipe it off from oiled wood. However, if too much time passes, the bitumen won’t come off.

As a side note, after a year, the coating remains very stable—it can’t be removed by wiping, only by sanding.

View attachment 478204
View attachment 478205

I also applied bitumen to the mock-up of the ship's side. I won’t spoil my own opinion just yet. I’m curious to hear what you think of the result. I've realized a lot through this process, but I’ll share my conclusions later after hearing your feedback!

View attachment 478217
View attachment 478218

*Don't pay attention to the completely black section on the right. It's just a test.

Comparing the samples with the hull, it's still hard to imagine how everything will look in the end, even though there will be many details added to the hull. In short, I will return to this topic later, but for now, I’m looking forward to your feedback.

View attachment 478219
View attachment 478220
View attachment 478221
...

I still await your opinion on how you like the bitumen coating.


Thanks in advance.

...
 
Hello Serikoff,

I had only known of bitumen as a substance found in coal. I had never heard of bitumen being used as a stain. The results of your use look very nice and appears to produce a consistent coverage across the planks. One important aspect to consider is how evenly it is absorbed into wood across an area. Your results show the absorption is consistent. I looked up some videos on how to use bitumen and it looks like it would be easy to use.

Thanks,

Bill
 
07.2023

Black stripes.


Well, let's move on. It's a pity that not many people responded to evaluate the bitumen patination, but oh well...

So, about the painting. First, you need to carefully mask off all areas that won't be painted using tape. This must be done very precisely and thoroughly, as any paint drips will be difficult to remove and time-consuming.

HMS Victory 289.jpg
HMS Victory 290.jpg
HMS Victory 291.jpg

As I mentioned earlier, I used matte black enamel spray paint. I was more than satisfied with the result. The positives are that the paint is truly matte, doesn’t run, dries quickly, and can be easily scraped off if you need to remove any excess. However, the only downside is the strong odor—it definitely needs to be applied outdoors.

HMS Victory 292.jpg
HMS Victory 293.jpg
HMS Victory 294.jpg
HMS Victory 295.jpg
HMS Victory 296.jpg
HMS Victory 297.jpg
HMS Victory 298.jpg
HMS Victory 299.jpg
HMS Victory 300.jpg
HMS Victory 301.jpg
HMS Victory 302.jpg

The stripes turned out to be smooth lines and symmetrical on both sides.

And finally, the hull is starting to resemble what I’ve been aiming for. I’m really liking the color combination. The daru fits perfectly between the black stripes.
Moving on...
 
Back
Top