HMS Victory [1805] 1:79 by serikoff. Started with Mantua -> Upgraded with John McKay's Anatomy.

I hope so. :)

I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do with paint. I have some resin parts on Alert to paint soon. I'll try to make them look like wood but it's not an easy thing for me.
I painted a lot of resin parts when I worked on the Amati Bismark. It was easy with acrylic paint. Not sure if primer was necessary or not but I didn't use primer and I had no issues with adhesion. The paint I used was Vallejo Model Air paint. Mind you, I wasn't trying to make them look like wood but rather metal. As an aside, I did have to use primer when I painted the PE parts of the model with that same paint.
 
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А little bit of poetry...

It feels like forum activity has dropped since 2023. After I registered, I read through past threads and saw a lot of reactions and comments. What I’m getting at is that it's hard for me to gauge whether the information I’m sharing is valuable to people without feedback. Writing and especially translating accurately (since English isn’t my native language) takes a lot of time. I’d really like to know if my efforts are worth it—maybe what I’m writing isn’t interesting, maybe it’s too lengthy, or maybe it’s clear enough that no one has questions.

Posting photos takes one amount of time, but creating posts with recommendations, tips, lessons learned, and hacks takes a lot more effort. Thank you in advance for any feedback.

It's always motivating to see responses; it encourages me to keep going and share more of my experience. Thanks for your input.
Excellent tutorial!
 
А little bit of poetry...

It feels like forum activity has dropped since 2023. After I registered, I read through past threads and saw a lot of reactions and comments. What I’m getting at is that it's hard for me to gauge whether the information I’m sharing is valuable to people without feedback. Writing and especially translating accurately (since English isn’t my native language) takes a lot of time. I’d really like to know if my efforts are worth it—maybe what I’m writing isn’t interesting, maybe it’s too lengthy, or maybe it’s clear enough that no one has questions.

Posting photos takes one amount of time, but creating posts with recommendations, tips, lessons learned, and hacks takes a lot more effort. Thank you in advance for any feedback.

It's always motivating to see responses; it encourages me to keep going and share more of my experience. Thanks for your input.
Hello my friend,

Well, it's hard to say, isn't it? I have read every post but there isn't always something to say. Retrospective build reports are hard to comment on because the work is completed, and nothing can (easily) change. You offer tutorials and if someone has never seen that information in the past then it is very interesting (rope making, for example). But this forum has been around for a while and there are many threads with similar information (rope making, for example) - so if someone has studied those other threads...

You have 50 people who have signed up to follow this report. They must find something interesting here. I suggest you do what you enjoy and if others find joy in it as well, then all the better. And if they don't - then you will still be doing something you enjoy. But putting pressure on yourself to do something you don't enjoy and then measuring the response of others feels like work and not a hobby.

I hope you stick with it - but only if you're having fun. Peace.
 
Your long descriptions explain a lot and they're long enough don't shorten them. The amount of information contained in this build log is just tremendous. If you worry you're not getting responese, firstly your wrong, secondly people usually tend to look on something higher - not obtaint yet. Checking statistic and responses is interesting, but is it core of this hobby. Besides you do get feedback it's not level of Paul's 200 pages of Vasa, but it's much more then usual topcis here

I only don't understand such jumping from topic to topic. I know this is retrospective log, but introducing so many subject is a little bitt confusing.
 
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Hello my friend,

Well, it's hard to say, isn't it? I have read every post but there isn't always something to say. Retrospective build reports are hard to comment on because the work is completed, and nothing can (easily) change. You offer tutorials and if someone has never seen that information in the past then it is very interesting (rope making, for example). But this forum has been around for a while and there are many threads with similar information (rope making, for example) - so if someone has studied those other threads...

You have 50 people who have signed up to follow this report. They must find something interesting here. I suggest you do what you enjoy and if others find joy in it as well, then all the better. And if they don't - then you will still be doing something you enjoy. But putting pressure on yourself to do something you don't enjoy and then measuring the response of others feels like work and not a hobby.

I hope you stick with it - but only if you're having fun. Peace.
I completely agree, it's a hobby and I enjoy it. The question is whether to continue in this spirit and whether it's interesting to people or to shorten the texts, since it takes time. Even if I help a couple of people, it will already be useful. Here I was just interested.

Your long descriptions explain a lot and they're long enough don't shorten them. The amount of information contained in this build log is just tremendous. If you worry you're not getting responese, firstly your wrong, secondly people usually tend to look on something higher - not obtaint yet. Checking statistic and responses is interesting, but is it core of this hobby. Besides you do get feedback it's not level of Paul's 200 pages of Vasa, but it's much more then usual topcis here

I only don't understand such jumping from topic to topic. I know this is retrospective log, but introducing so many subject is a little bitt confusing.
I agree that it is difficult to correct the diary if part of the work has already been done. I am talking more about my tests. Yes, sometimes they jump from topic to topic, but I test all aspects in order to do everything correctly later on.



Thank you for your answer, it is very valuable to me. I repeat, I asked this question only out of the desire to clarify, yes or no.
 
It's always motivating to see responses; it encourages me to keep going and share more of my experience. Thanks for your input.

I speak only for myself here.

I really enjoy your build log of the Victory. The earlier posts came quickly and the years of building compressed into a few weeks of reading was very enjoyable and even exciting!

I had the same experience posting retrospectively about my Alert. When I got up to date, my posts became smaller and now they are becoming less frequent. Our hobby is slow and finding something to interest people every day is difficult.

I have been filling my posts by describing in some detail how I found errors in instructions, or how I use a particular glue. Sometimes I post a photo of my dog! I haven’t yet posted photos of my lunch but that might happen! Actually, those glimpses of my personal life seem to generate more replies than my little tutorials.

I am now realising that some members have suggested that my writing about general techniques would be more usefully placed in the ‘General Topics / Help With Models’ section of the forum. They made the suggestions very gently and I hardly noticed them at the time.

I think that many readers want a build log to be mostly the story of the build. The builder in his struggle with that particular model. I have the feeling that when I wander away from that, I get fewer replies. I still get ‘likes’ but people don’t write much.

I’m only coming to understand this by considering your question. Perhaps you and I are making the same mistake in mixing tutorials with the stories of our builds?

I must be honest and tell you that I am now skipping your writing on ropes. I only glance at the photos to see if there’s anything new to me, such as your vertical rope walk. The rest, discussions on S and Z twists, or diameters are things which I have read before or am not interested in at this time. They will be of interest to me when I’m rigging Alert but not right now.

So I think we might both get more replies from our readers if we write about our builds in our build logs, and post tutorials in ‘General Topics’ where members can easily find them when they need them.

I hope my answer is useful to you. Your question has been very helpful to me. :)
 
I speak only for myself here.

I really enjoy your build log of the Victory. The earlier posts came quickly and the years of building compressed into a few weeks of reading was very enjoyable and even exciting!

I had the same experience posting retrospectively about my Alert. When I got up to date, my posts became smaller and now they are becoming less frequent. Our hobby is slow and finding something to interest people every day is difficult.

I have been filling my posts by describing in some detail how I found errors in instructions, or how I use a particular glue. Sometimes I post a photo of my dog! I haven’t yet posted photos of my lunch but that might happen! Actually, those glimpses of my personal life seem to generate more replies than my little tutorials.

I am now realising that some members have suggested that my writing about general techniques would be more usefully placed in the ‘General Topics / Help With Models’ section of the forum. They made the suggestions very gently and I hardly noticed them at the time.

I think that many readers want a build log to be mostly the story of the build. The builder in his struggle with that particular model. I have the feeling that when I wander away from that, I get fewer replies. I still get ‘likes’ but people don’t write much.

I’m only coming to understand this by considering your question. Perhaps you and I are making the same mistake in mixing tutorials with the stories of our builds?

I must be honest and tell you that I am now skipping your writing on ropes. I only glance at the photos to see if there’s anything new to me, such as your vertical rope walk. The rest, discussions on S and Z twists, or diameters are things which I have read before or am not interested in at this time. They will be of interest to me when I’m rigging Alert but not right now.

So I think we might both get more replies from our readers if we write about our builds in our build logs, and post tutorials in ‘General Topics’ where members can easily find them when they need them.

I hope my answer is useful to you. Your question has been very helpful to me. :)
Thank you for your answer. I am doing separate topics in sections concerning certain topics. But I am doing there as a guide with links to the main review, so that it would be easier to find the necessary information. But I still want everything to be in one place. For those who will go through the whole journey with me.



In a word, I understood your answers. And I understood that I can continue in the same spirit, not paying attention to the fact that sometimes there is no reaction. ;) Ship-1
 
Serikoff
Please do NOT shorten or otherwise change your posts.
To me your posts are very clear and beneficial. I appreciate seeing or getting a comment be they negative or positive if they are specific, more than just one line posts of encouragement. Little comments of praise and "likes" are definitely feel good moments and I love it if I get one but I want to learn so a more detailed comment is always appreciated.



So I think we might both get more replies from our readers if we write about our builds in our build logs, and post tutorials in ‘General Topics’ where members can easily find them when they need them.
Or maybe a combination of both as I suspect there are at least a few members that predominantly follow build logs OR tutorials. not necessarily both.

Allan
 
Serikoff
Please do NOT shorten or otherwise change your posts.
To me your posts are very clear and beneficial. I appreciate seeing or getting a comment be they negative or positive if they are specific, more than just one line posts of encouragement. Little comments of praise and "likes" are definitely feel good moments and I love it if I get one but I want to learn so a more detailed comment is always appreciated.




Or maybe a combination of both as I suspect there are at least a few members that predominantly follow build logs OR tutorials. not necessarily both.

Allan
As I already mentioned, I have my own forum and I noticed a tendency that in the early years of its development people were more involved. Building something similar or registering at the same time people communicated more. But after some time the excitement and motivation falls a little, you don’t want to write the same thing anymore and the activity fell. I noticed that this happened in waves. Reading this forum I see something similar, which is logical. But I’m glad that my memoirs are useful, so let’s continue)))) Thank you for your feedback.
 
05.2024

Friends, thank you for your feedback.
Your responses have reassured me, and I’ll be happy to keep sharing my experience, recommendations, and tips.
Today, I’ll be discussing how I make rigging threads.

I use threads from only two brands and specifically chosen types. For rigging up to 0.25 mm thickness and for fine seizings, I use Gutermann Scala 360 in color 111. For everything else, I use Amann Serafil 120\2 in color 1000. I also recommend Gutermann Tera 180 in color 111, but since it wasn’t available, I opted for Serafil instead. I choose threads in an off-white (milky) color and dye them to the exact shade I need. I’ll go into detail about the dyeing process next time.

w3easdуу.jpg

I described how I make threads in previous posts using my own rope machine. But how can one determine the correct thickness of the rigging? Kit sets usually come with threads, but they aren’t always the right diameter. So how can we verify it?
Diameter of Main Stay is 0,166 from diameter of main mast in the main ship deck. And the Main Stay diameter is 100% for calculation of the thickness of all ropes on the ship.

To understand everything - save the file attached at the end of the post "Rigging - size of rope and blocks".
There everything is described in detail for each tackle in the rigging. And the most important thing is how to find the diameter of the mainstay from the diameter of the main mast and from its value in the table calculate all the other ropes and cables. Thanks for the table @dockattner !!

trfdc.JPG


For my ship, I double-checked all the values and created a comprehensive file with all the thicknesses based on the Jotika company's schematics. You can download it via the provided link. (This should be suitable for scales close to mine, 1:79.)

Rigging diagram for HMS Victory
w3esd.JPG

As a result, I ended up with these values. The left column represents the standing rigging, and the right column the running rigging.
HMS Victory 442т.JPG



Now, I'll show examples of ropes and cords, demonstrating how many threads are needed to create the final rigging. This should make the process clear.

Gutermann Scala 360 - 0,25mm | here, "2x3" means that each of the three strands contains two threads.
1HMS Victory 446.jpg

Amann Serafil 120\2 - 0,38mm | here, "2x3" means that each of the three strands contains two threads.
2HMS Victory 446.jpg

Similarly, "4x3" means there are four threads in each of the three strands, and so on.
3HMS Victory 446.jpg
4HMS Victory 446.jpg


Ropes are braided from cables, so a notation like "(2x3)x3" means there are three cables, each made up of three strands with two threads in each strand. The same applies to other notations like "(4x3)x3" and so forth.
6HMS Victory 446.jpg

304465-22c028d00d3e5504cfd7a37d23a0ec0f.png

Here's a combination of the main and fore stays with a slightly larger size. To verify that increasing the thickness for aesthetics isn't necessary, but perhaps sometimes it might be worth considering!
HMS Victory 451.jpg

And here are the first fittings of the finished samples of the shrouds and stays.
HMS Victory 454.jpg
HMS Victory 455.jpg
HMS Victory 456.jpg

In the next post, I will detail how and with what I dye polyester threads.
 

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This is very instructive, You ask rhetorically 'But how can one determine the correct thickness of the rigging?'

My simple answer is to turn to Biddlecombe's "The Art of Rigging". which lists the sizes to be used for various sizes of ship, and for every part of the rigging. Turn to the tables and look up the size of ship, in tons weight, and there is the full set of rigging materials needed.
HMS Trincomalee, a floating museum in Hartlepool, was never rigged. The hull, and several others, was built and keep 'in readiness' - She would have gone from floating hull to fully rigged frigate in a week - as all the rigging was ready, and in store. Biddlecombe's tables go down to less than an inch in length for the various ropes and cables needed.
It would have been quite a sight to watch as a huge team of riggers and apprentices set about raising masts and adding all the rigging within a week of (disciplined) effort.

So, as I say, if the precise thickness of ropes is to be modelled, go to the source information.

It may be worth adding that then, as now, a ship would be rigged with whatever sizes the chandlers had in stock, even if it were not the perfect calculated size. Though I'm unsure of how a difference of an inch (25mm) between the braces for different sails would be detectable when looking at a model.

May I also say that I'm looking forward to an episode showing how to take the shine and newness off a scale rope. Real artistry needed there of course.

Great work..

Jim
 
This is very instructive, You ask rhetorically 'But how can one determine the correct thickness of the rigging?'

My simple answer is to turn to Biddlecombe's "The Art of Rigging". which lists the sizes to be used for various sizes of ship, and for every part of the rigging. Turn to the tables and look up the size of ship, in tons weight, and there is the full set of rigging materials needed.
HMS Trincomalee, a floating museum in Hartlepool, was never rigged. The hull, and several others, was built and keep 'in readiness' - She would have gone from floating hull to fully rigged frigate in a week - as all the rigging was ready, and in store. Biddlecombe's tables go down to less than an inch in length for the various ropes and cables needed.
It would have been quite a sight to watch as a huge team of riggers and apprentices set about raising masts and adding all the rigging within a week of (disciplined) effort.

So, as I say, if the precise thickness of ropes is to be modelled, go to the source information.

It may be worth adding that then, as now, a ship would be rigged with whatever sizes the chandlers had in stock, even if it were not the perfect calculated size. Though I'm unsure of how a difference of an inch (25mm) between the braces for different sails would be detectable when looking at a model.

May I also say that I'm looking forward to an episode showing how to take the shine and newness off a scale rope. Real artistry needed there of course.

Great work..

Jim
Thank you very much. The question was not actually rhetorical. The difficulty of translation is that it is very difficult to explain some terms. I will try to clarify once again. To find out all the dimensions of the rigging, we only need to know the diameter of the Mainstay. And to find it out, there is a formula for calculating this diameter from the diameter of the Mainmast. (Unfortunately, I could not find this exact formula on the Internet in English yet) And when we find out the thickness of the Mainstay, then according to a special table we can calculate the diameter of other gear. The Mainstay is 1. And if something else, say 0.5, then this means that this gear is 2 times thinner than the Mainstay. My Mainstay is 2 mm. Half of this value is 1 mm, and so on. I will try to find the exact formula by which you can find out the desired Mainstay from the Mainmast. And the table of ratios is in the description, but it is not in English (( it needs to be translated.
 
Thank you very much. The question was not actually rhetorical. The difficulty of translation is that it is very difficult to explain some terms. I will try to clarify once again. To find out all the dimensions of the rigging, we only need to know the diameter of the Mainstay. And to find it out, there is a formula for calculating this diameter from the diameter of the Mainmast. (Unfortunately, I could not find this exact formula on the Internet in English yet) And when we find out the thickness of the Mainstay, then according to a special table we can calculate the diameter of other gear. The Mainstay is 1. And if something else, say 0.5, then this means that this gear is 2 times thinner than the Mainstay. My Mainstay is 2 mm. Half of this value is 1 mm, and so on. I will try to find the exact formula by which you can find out the desired Mainstay from the Mainmast. And the table of ratios is in the description, but it is not in English (( it needs to be translated.
Hi Sergey, here are some tables and spreadsheets that address this topic. Perhaps you will find something of interest here?
 

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Hi Sergey, here are some tables and spreadsheets that address this topic. Perhaps you will find something of interest here?
Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is exactly what I was looking for in English. The second table is exactly what I was talking about!!!
Thank you. I will add it to my posts.
 
Painting Rigging Threads.

1.
I'll demonstrate the painting process using the threads I currently work with:
Gutermann scala 360 color 111, Amann Serafil 120 color 1000.
This can also be done with similar types of thread: Gutermann Tera180 color 111.
I do not use colored threads from these manufacturers either, as all polyester threads have a shine, which I do not like.

2. All the threads I use are in a milky color. Therefore, the results I show apply specifically to this color only.

3. I follow Dmitry Shevelev’s method for coloring, using oil-based artist paints, but with special preparation beforehand.

4. There are two color combination options. I’ll start with the one I initially used, but I’ll be painting the rigging on my ship using the second option. I like both, so I’ll show both.

5. The painting process involves dipping the thread into a reservoir of paint with a brush and pulling the thread under the brush while it is submerged in the paint. After a couple of minutes, we let the paint soak in and then dab off the excess with a paper towel. We don't wipe; we dab.

6. The threads take a couple of days to dry, after which they can be used. For those interested, the smell completely dissipates within a month.

7. It's best to dry the threads stretched out. I tie loops at the ends of the threads and stretch them tightly between two nails fixed on a board. You could hang a weight, but the first method is more convenient.

8. After drying, the threads become slightly stiffer, but not too much. I actually like this, as it makes them easier to work with. If anyone finds this inconvenient, simply kneading them a bit will soften them up.

9. Attention! The paint does not adhere to areas glued with super glue. Therefore, gluing should only be done after painting!



Method one.
The color scheme is similar to this appearance.

цуыв.jpg

To achieve the colors shown in the photo above (dark brown and reddish-brick), we need two oil paints.

HMS Victory 459.jpg HMS Victory 460.jpg

To achieve the dark brown color (for the standing rigging), I made a test sample with the following proportions:

5 ml of linseed oil + 5 ml of solvent + 5 cm of squeezed (natural) raw umber paint.

Explanation! The solvent I use is odorless, sold in art stores, specifically for thinning oil paints. The 5 cm refers to a strip of paint squeezed through the opening, which is equal to 5 cm. To make a larger batch, simply increase all ingredients proportionally.

To achieve the reddish-brick color (for the running rigging), you need:

5 ml of linseed oil + 5 ml of solvent + 5 cm of golden ochre + 2.5 mm of (natural) raw umber (no more!).

Explanation! If you add more umber, it will result in a completely different color, and it will be very difficult to achieve the desired shade from that. Therefore, it's better to add very small amounts.

And here is the result. By the way, in the photo, there is a color where I added more than 2.5 mm of umber (the second thread from the right in the photo). Some might prefer that specific color.

HMS Victory 461.jpg
HMS Victory 462.jpg




Method two.

I liked the color combination more, and it closely resembles the rigging colors on Dmitry Shevelev's 75-gun ship. I will paint my threads in these colors.

Нити.jpg

To achieve the colors shown in the photo above (dark brown and reddish-brick), we need two oil paints.

HMS Victory 459.jpg HMS Victory 465.jpg

To achieve the dark brown color (for the standing rigging), I made a test sample with the following proportions:

5 ml of linseed oil + 5 ml of solvent + 5 cm of squeezed (natural) raw umber paint.

Explanation! The solvent I use is odorless, sold in art stores, specifically for thinning oil paints. The 5 cm refers to a strip of paint squeezed through the opening, which is equal to 5 cm. To make a larger batch, simply increase all ingredients proportionally.

For the running rigging, a different ochre is needed, yellow! Here are the proportions:

5 ml of linseed oil + 5 ml of solvent + 3.5 cm of yellow ochre + 3-6 mm of raw umber (no more).

Explanation! If you add more than 7 mm of umber, the color will change. However, in this case, unlike with the golden ochre, it can be corrected by adding oil, solvent, and ochre while reducing the amount of umber. Below, I will show the difference in color between using 3 mm or 6 mm of umber.

And here is the result. I will focus on this.

HMS Victory 466.jpg
HMS Victory 467.jpg

In the two photos above, in order from left to right: the first is the standing rigging (umbra); in the center, the third is yellow ochre + 3 mm of umbra; the right two are 6 mm (hence the color is slightly darker). You can actually play with the shades here. For areas with various weavings in the running rigging, you could use some with 3 mm and others with 6 mm as an option.

In the photo below, the leftmost rope features a lanyard. I made it following Shchevelev's method. First, the rope is dyed with umbra, then impregnated with cyanoacrylate for rigidity during lanyarding. After that, the lanyarding is done, followed by the painting of the finished rope. The lanyarding was done with Amann Serafil 60, so the color is slightly different after dyeing since the thread is not milk-colored but simply white. I will experiment further with this. Additionally, the lanyarding was a trial run, and it needs to incorporate thinner threads; I will discuss this more later.

HMS Victory 468.jpg
HMS Victory 469.jpg

Overall, I liked the samples, and while there's still much I will try and experiment with, the result I've achieved is clear and very satisfactory to me.
If there are any questions, I'll be happy to help.

Ship-1
 
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