HMS Victory by Y.T.- Mamoli - 1:90 scale

uncchains said:
how you determined the width of the black and yellow stripes on the hull.
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Question is not addressed to me but let me answer. On my model I used existing current photographs of the Victory hull as a reference. Sometimes I got out of this control and was using my imagination a little bit.
 
Y.T. said:
This is how it looks like taken apart. No glue.
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Crosstrees are lying flat on topmast cheeks or hounds. Trestletrees are lying on top of crosstrees making a very sturdy construction. This was held down by shrouds (port and starboard). All the crosstrees were fitted with wooden bolsters at the masthead, rounded off on the outside edges to prevent the shrouds from chafing on the trestletrees.
The topmast's heel should be snug, but not loose, and fit between the trestletrees so the whole topmast neither wobbles nor leans to one side. To prevent the topmast from sliding through the top, a wood or iron bar termed the Fid was passed through the heel of the topmast, resting on the trestletrees.
Lastly, to provide support for topmasts, the Cups were used.

Screenshot 2023-09-04 205020.jpeg
IMG_0088.JPEG

The source is: Wolfram Zu Mondfeld and karl H. Marquardt
 
Y.T. said:
Question is not addressed to me but let me answer. On my model I used existing current photographs of the Victory hull as a reference. Sometimes I got out of this control and was using my imagination a little bit.
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Thanks. That's how I did it on my full model. Working on cross-section now....
 
Remaining free few hours of this week end I spent making fids and rectangular holes in masts. Broke two drill bits making holes on the fid ends. It appeared drilling on brass breaks bits in no time unless you secure a piece in vise and apply some lubricant. I applied water.
 
A tiny drop of "Gunk" brand cutting oil works wonders. Very smelly and messy to handle. But the stuff soaks into hopelessly rust frozen screw threads or plier joints and the like and given a little time to soak in, does its' intended job very well. Very good as intended when used as a lubricant for cutting metal with metal ( drilling, sawing, milling, etc.) Thumbsup
 
Y.T. said:
Remaining free few hours of this week end I spent making fids and rectangular holes in masts. Broke two drill bits making holes on the fid ends. It appeared drilling on brass breaks bits in no time unless you secure a piece in vise and apply some lubricant. I applied water.
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Hi YT,
Drilling Brass, the drill bit is best to have a negative rake angle or it will grab when the drill breaks through, this can be done by hand using a fine stone to just break the cutting edge.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
 
Peter Gutterman said:
Dusek resurrected the brand with some important improvements, but the whole series of kits really needs to be taken back to the start, redesigned, updated and reengineered. The metal castings need to be remodeled and new molds made, instructions rewritten and put into some reasonably logical, easy to follow order, and especially their approach to hull planking totally overhauled. A novice plunging into one of their kits is in for a rude awakening, and perhaps a life altering experience, possibly being disabused of the notion of ever trying to build a wood ship model from a kit ever again! I speak from personal experience. But perhaps being a glutton for punishment, I am now on my third Mamoli build. A word to the wise: Mamoli kits are for experienced kit bashers and/or scratch builders.

Pete
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My first wooden ship kit back in 1983 was Mamoli's 'Blue Shadow', which, as an introduction to wooden ships, worked out very good for me, despite not finishing her until 2018! I've part built the Mamoli/Dusak Golden Hind, which I've found let down by the paper printed decor strips, I've not used these, instead I painted them on to pre-shaped veneer, then stuck them to the hull.
 
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