HMS Victory by Y.T.- Mamoli - 1:90 scale

Thank You for the response so quickly. I will follow your build for sure. I have the Victory but am a novice starting on first wood ship HMS Surprise. I think you are gifted with talent. Again, truly awed at your work. Oh, and your rope, hand wound with no frays on it, spectacular!
 
I like your mast and yardarm elements very much - You have a good eye for all these small details - and executed these very accurate
Very good work
 
Y.T. said:
Oh. I machined out a slot for the sheave in the mast. Then I machined a sheave. Then I inserted the sheave in the slot with some glue on the sides. The sheave, of course, does not rotate. It is just a dummy.
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When I said "flying bridge" which is on a yacht, (image .0167) I meant pulpit on a sailboat. Typed before brain finished working.
 
Do you know these brackets attached to channels and supporting studding sail booms? I made these. It was a challenge. I decided making them from brass. I took a rectangular bar and pieces of copper sheet. I silver soldered them. I then separated them with jeweler fret saw into the sizable brackets. This is sown on pictures below. Then I shaped them with files and blackened them.

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Indexing tool on my UNIMAT machine. Excellent for drilling holes on this belaying pin support for a mizen mast. I realised I am missing one and decided to add it. Indexing tool was collecting dust since I purchased it. Suddenly I realised what it can be used for. Actually Alexander74 building log for Diagostini Victory had me inspired. What a nice log he has.

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I am in awe at the quality of your metal and wood turning skills. Which model Unimat is that and do you attribute the high quality to this tool or have you access to some of the other lathes/drills etc as well? The ship is looking just superb. A real credit to you Y.T. Congratulations.

Regards,

PeterG.
 
PeterG said:
I am in awe at the quality
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Thanks ,Peter.
PeterG said:
Which model Unimat is that
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This is UNIMAT DB-200. It is out of production since early 70s.
PeterG said:
do you attribute the high quality to this tool
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No, I do not attribute it only to this tool. Tools are just very good help in certain situations. I would attribute the quality to good eyesight (I always use x2 magnifier glasses), steady hand and my personal quality standards which I set pretty high for myself. If parts do not turn out to be to my liking I discard them.
PeterG said:
have you access to some of the other lathes/drills etc as well?
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From electric tools I also have a table saw Proxxon FET, mini drill stand by Proxxon, corded Makita drill, Proxxon jig saw (I do not like it and do not use it) and the most important tool is the 5" DIA disk sander (this one I use very often).
 
Before getting into rigging I had to finish all work on the hull before the rigging lines created an obstruction. It appeared I had quite a lot of work to do.

- I added numerous eyebolts and clevises all around for belaying future rigging lines.
- added a missing hook on cathead
- replaced the knightheads as one’s I had were too short so out of scale. Drilled inclined holes in them for main stay rope to go through.
- added boomkins
- added the rests for anchors on the hull outside body.
- added quarter davits

Now I can start thinking how to rig this thing.
 
Y.T. said:
More pictures. View attachment 390462View attachment 390463View attachment 390464View attachment 390465
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I have two questions: Can you tell me how you were able to machine the curve under the "hound" at the top of the cheek and what is the width (in mm) of the top of the hound? I am beginning to work on the main mast for my cross-section model of the VICTORY, same scale, but the Corel plans are devoid of any such dimensions. Those plans would have one attach what is obviously the "bibb" as the hound. This is another place where Corel's plans are most unhelpful. Thanks, in advance. (Ref.: Longridge, pg. 165)
 
Thanks, 1st photo is from Longridge. What did you use to mill the curve under the "hound" and the top of the cheek?
 
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