Good morning Frank. Thank you for these. I did attempt as a rookie to modify the Mantua kit from a completely non representative example to look more like these pics. I would have to scratch build this stern to get it right and Grants Victory is not ready for this. Thanks for all your help during my rookie version of this ship, I have appreciated it immensely. Cheers Grant
Good morning Kurt. Thank you for this. I certainly have it a full go with this Ship. I am very happy with the outcome and most importantly I really enjoyed building her. Cheers Grant
Good morning Dean. Yep a big improvement. I just couldn’t live with my attempts- I am happy nowDefinitely an improvement Grant!
. Cheers Grant
. No idea?????
Ask Doc Ratnwr. Paul did fine miniature painting of the folks on the Wasa!Good morning. Onto fixing the next horror. I carefully removed the Mantua side entrance with Grants painting debacle.
View attachment 373515View attachment 373514
The 3D part is very detailed and an excellent representation of the real ship. Here are the two parts old vs new:
View attachment 373517
Now what….
In this close up you can see the detail :
View attachment 373518
Here is the entrance on the real ship. The 3D part is very accurate.
View attachment 373519
Question- how do you paint the gold at this my minute scale
Cheers Grant
At Kurt's prompting... in my experience gold is a hard color to paint. The paint options tend to be thick and hard to control - especially when it comes to limiting the application to the high spots as you see on the real ship. You could give it a go but be prepared to wash it offQuestion- how do you paint the gold at this my minute scale
. For what its worth - yellow makes a fine substitute for gold at this scale.
At Kurt's prompting... in my experience gold is a hard color to paint. The paint options tend to be thick and hard to control - especially when it comes to limiting the application to the high spots as you see on the real ship. You could give it a go but be prepared to wash it off
With all that said I would be prepared to use a different approach entirely:
Option 1: given the small size of the part and the nature of the micro-details I would first paint the whole thing gold (or yellow) using a thinned down paint and many coats so you don't lose all the details. I would then use a black wash and flood that into the recesses leaving the yellow/gold on the raised up portions (this is called lowlighting). Again, it will take several layers of the wash to fill in things back to black. If you were very careful...when the black wash was nearly dry - you also might be able to wipe off the highlights further revealing the yellow/gold.
Option 2: dry brushing is a technique you could research on the internet. It basically employs a nearly dry brush to tease color onto the raised portions. I think this approach is excellent when working on exposed highlights (on convex surfaces, for example), but holds less promise for the 3D entryway you are trying to detail.
For example: the lion and the dog are lowlighted:
And the scales:
And here the lion's main has been highlighted via dry brushing:
YOU GOT THIS!
yes . they are so bigWOW - Do you have so big 1-cent coins in the States ?
I guess they are very heavy in the wallet, or?
Beautiful work
sorry for being off topic
Correct. In America we have so much money we decided to use larger coins and currency. I can no longer fit a $100 bill in my house...
Good afternoon Paul. Eish….At Kurt's prompting... in my experience gold is a hard color to paint. The paint options tend to be thick and hard to control - especially when it comes to limiting the application to the high spots as you see on the real ship. You could give it a go but be prepared to wash it off
With all that said I would be prepared to use a different approach entirely:
Option 1: given the small size of the part and the nature of the micro-details I would first paint the whole thing gold (or yellow) using a thinned down paint and many coats so you don't lose all the details. I would then use a black wash and flood that into the recesses leaving the yellow/gold on the raised up portions (this is called lowlighting). Again, it will take several layers of the wash to fill in things back to black. If you were very careful...when the black wash was nearly dry - you also might be able to wipe off the highlights further revealing the yellow/gold.
Option 2: dry brushing is a technique you could research on the internet. It basically employs a nearly dry brush to tease color onto the raised portions. I think this approach is excellent when working on exposed highlights (on convex surfaces, for example), but holds less promise for the 3D entryway you are trying to detail.
For example: the lion and the dog are lowlighted:
And the scales:
And here the lion's main has been highlighted via dry brushing:
YOU GOT THIS!
When I read this I just went…. You must be joking right?
… I battle to paint a straight line with the assistance of Tamiya tape.True storyThis is a mini masterclass of painting figures....
In SA our currency is so sad when we run out of toilet paper ……
No worries then. There are no straight lines on that entryway...
Then you need to spend it on more ship kits and supplies.
fantastic work Grant , since I have a little more time to have a look at especially your achievements , mind bogglingGood morning. Finally I continue with my Victory. It is rather fitting that she returns to my shipyard on Coronation Day of King Charles. She is no longer “Her majesty ship” but His Majesty Ship Victory
Ok enough Blah blah. Started the redo of the stern railing decoration. Ripped off the horrors I attempted:
View attachment 373136
Redid with the new 3D printed parts :
Before :
View attachment 373137
After :
View attachment 373139
Before :
View attachment 373141
After :
View attachment 373140
Cheers Grant.
Grant, you can dry brush it with gold, then touch up the black, or do a black wash as Paul mentioned.Good morning. Onto fixing the next horror. I carefully removed the Mantua side entrance with Grants painting debacle.
View attachment 373515View attachment 373514
The 3D part is very detailed and an excellent representation of the real ship. Here are the two parts old vs new:
View attachment 373517
Now what….
In this close up you can see the detail :
View attachment 373518
Here is the entrance on the real ship. The 3D part is very accurate.
View attachment 373519
Question- how do you paint the gold at this my minute scale
Cheers Grant
I would start with black base color, dry brush the gold, then use a black wash to finish. If you have a steady hand, you can touch up the black. Whatever you are most comfortable with.
Good morning Robert. Thank you very much. I have This side entrance and the strapping on my Launch to finish and then she is done. I did not think I could have pulled this off (in Grants fashion) when I started so I’m pretty chuffed. Cheers Grant
Good morning Dean. Thanks for this. My problem is that the raised portions are so slight that I don’t believe I could just get the dry brush on them only. Probably Grants painting skill is the issue here. Here is some scale - this is a 0.3mm drill bit.Grant, you can dry brush it with gold, then touch up the black, or do a black wash as Paul mentioned.
Seeing this view of the entryway makes me wonder how successful you are going to be - the details are murky and may not take well to ANY approach. Maybe the photo flattened the details?
