Good morning. In my plan of learning and perhaps madness I continued with my Mizzen. Most models (almost all) seat all masts and complete the standing rigging first and then move on to fitting yards etc.
I have decided in my method to fit all the yards, lift lines and truss pendant braces first and then move to the main mast. This way the entire front section is free from stays etc and fitting the yards and rigging these is easier. The sheet lines, buntlines etc will be done after all the standing rigging. So far this is awesome...waiting for the “ouch” knock on consequences later.
Mizzen cross Jack :
I drilled a small 0.6mm pin into center of yard and made a hole in mast where the yard fits. A tiny drop of CA, dry for 30sec and then “wiggle” the yard so it has a little movement when you tension the topping lifts. Just make sure the stirrups and cleats are centered correctly- I had to redo
![Oops! :oops: :oops:](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f633.png)
. Works brilliantly as the yard is light and one can tension the sling, topping lifts etc without the yard shifting all over the place. You cannot see the pin from any angle.Not my idea and I’m sure many guys use this.
Strapped my stays up out of the way and had no confusion or lines to work around. Was good.
Interesting- the Victory Mizzen cross Jack has no jeer blocks. Like really? I had put these on in my ignorance and had to cut them off. It is held on by a sling only. When I “modified “my kit masts I did not leave the sling gaps through the cross trees big enough and I could not seize these. More blunders- looks good tho.
Ok enough waffle here are some pics:
![9580B25D-FB78-4A25-A93E-278178BA5260.jpeg 9580B25D-FB78-4A25-A93E-278178BA5260.jpeg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/296/296721-fc56f546de11ea63b0672aa1dca0c926.jpg?hash=_Fb1Rt4R6m)
Blue arrow- even when I have no fore masts and stays to work around Grantie breaks his stanchion on his netting. No finesse.
![24BB7F3C-EBBA-42CA-BA6C-3B59E6D4B7D6.jpeg 24BB7F3C-EBBA-42CA-BA6C-3B59E6D4B7D6.jpeg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/296/296719-85d6957cccf8af985269ced0c5465f90.jpg?hash=hdaVfMz4r5)
The sling is connected with 0.2mm hemp colour thread and finished with double half hitches.
![5FDF9C33-2113-4FAA-AA9A-AFB6E1AE8858.jpeg 5FDF9C33-2113-4FAA-AA9A-AFB6E1AE8858.jpeg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/296/296720-f9125dfbc20b222f6c3176fa64551678.jpg?hash=-RJd-8ILIi)
The truss prendant lines run to deck through 2 single 5mm blocks. My hook making still not A, but move from and F I think?
![9C934008-F5C9-4F1D-A174-4482A6E543D3.jpeg 9C934008-F5C9-4F1D-A174-4482A6E543D3.jpeg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/296/296718-529bae07f542cee467666db2672c5fe6.jpg?hash=UpuuB_VCzu)
The topping lift lines and truss pendant brace lines are tied off and I attempted some rope coils. Better Pic- the above just looked cool through the ratlines
I have been reading The Art of Rigging and there are so many inaccuracies in the above build process and kit plans and parts. E.g. the knots used (vs whipping), the stirrups are rope (vs brass hooks), rope coils etc- it is so interesting how these ships are rigged but I need to build to my skill and the scale level.
Cheers Grant