Nice job Will
I have to say that to my taste the new look is much nicer
That was certainly quite an effort but definitely worthwhile
Cheers
-
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HMS Victory of Caldercraft by Wil
- Thread starter Scheepshoorn
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I have to say that to my taste the new look is much nicer
That was certainly quite an effort but definitely worthwhile
Cheers
- Joined
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22 The facia and the galleries part 2
With a few interruptions, the past few weeks have been dominated by finishing the galleries and the facia. In the following photo series, I would like to take you through how I did it.
We start with preparatory work on the facia.
After crowning, the boat was still standing neatly upside down on the tilting attachment. A couple of cans of paint underneath on one side and it came up with its butt nicely at working height.
First, a quick adjustment to the underside of the transom. Due to my mistake earlyer in the building process, when the last truss was set too high, the space between the two aluminium corner elements had to be filled in order to be level. I chose to add an extra plate here.
First fit the outer plate of the facia. In the inner plate, the edges around the windows had already been painted yellow
On the workbench, the many rounds of painting and fitting in the many ornaments then begin. Pictures of the real Victory at hand
Once the windows were fitted in the outer plate, the glass could be fitted on the inside. I gave the yellow stripes on the sides of the transom some extra cachet by inserting a 1 mm batten all around and dropping it back 1 mm.
Then the outer plate can be glued against it
After some final fill-ins, here is the final result.
In between, I also briefly assembled the lanterns. These will be mounted at a later stage, as they are too fragile otherwise
While working on the facia, I also tackled the galleries. E.g. the work is an extension of each other.
After removing the tape for the windows, work could begin on fitting the lower sills under the various ornaments and windows.
And when everything is in place, a coat of brush putty to seal the gaps.
Then the first layers of colour on top
Windows fitted and painted. This does make it handy to have a tool to help you find the right place in the whole thing.
And finally glue on the ornaments with the columns.
Tip: I did not paint the black areas between the windows, but cut them out of a black sheet of paper that came with the kit. At least, I assume it was meant for this purpose.
As a finishing touch, I finished the whole thing with a thin layer of matt varnish, to eventually give everything a similar gloss effect.
With the end result after several weeks of fiddling and detailed painting:
With a few interruptions, the past few weeks have been dominated by finishing the galleries and the facia. In the following photo series, I would like to take you through how I did it.
We start with preparatory work on the facia.
After crowning, the boat was still standing neatly upside down on the tilting attachment. A couple of cans of paint underneath on one side and it came up with its butt nicely at working height.
First, a quick adjustment to the underside of the transom. Due to my mistake earlyer in the building process, when the last truss was set too high, the space between the two aluminium corner elements had to be filled in order to be level. I chose to add an extra plate here.
First fit the outer plate of the facia. In the inner plate, the edges around the windows had already been painted yellow
On the workbench, the many rounds of painting and fitting in the many ornaments then begin. Pictures of the real Victory at hand
Once the windows were fitted in the outer plate, the glass could be fitted on the inside. I gave the yellow stripes on the sides of the transom some extra cachet by inserting a 1 mm batten all around and dropping it back 1 mm.
Then the outer plate can be glued against it
After some final fill-ins, here is the final result.
In between, I also briefly assembled the lanterns. These will be mounted at a later stage, as they are too fragile otherwise
While working on the facia, I also tackled the galleries. E.g. the work is an extension of each other.
After removing the tape for the windows, work could begin on fitting the lower sills under the various ornaments and windows.
And when everything is in place, a coat of brush putty to seal the gaps.
Then the first layers of colour on top
Windows fitted and painted. This does make it handy to have a tool to help you find the right place in the whole thing.
And finally glue on the ornaments with the columns.
Tip: I did not paint the black areas between the windows, but cut them out of a black sheet of paper that came with the kit. At least, I assume it was meant for this purpose.
As a finishing touch, I finished the whole thing with a thin layer of matt varnish, to eventually give everything a similar gloss effect.
With the end result after several weeks of fiddling and detailed painting:
Hi Will
Beautiful work, congratulations
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2024
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- 78
Who can help me with the next question?
Which ropes of the Victory should be made as S-twist cable?
Which ropes of the Victory should be made as S-twist cable?
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- Aug 8, 2019
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Everything thicker then 73 mm in diameter is cable.
Sometimes smaller to, but that is called cablet.
Edit. To remember that a cable is taken less water then a rope. In other words more water resistant. So ropes that hit the water more often will be made as cablet. Like sheets and tacks of the lower sails for example. But also ropes that where attached to the anchor where made as cablet.
Last edited:
I totally concur with Gilbert
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2024
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23 The bow of the ship
After the rear of the ship, it was the front's turn. Starting with the bow rails. Adequate space for the ornaments has to be taken into account here for proper placement.
Then work began on the 3D front section. What makes a huge difference here is the pliability of the supplied 2x2mm beech slats. Not forgetting the paintwork
What remains is the walk of the marines, which is now on the worktable to be painted
After the rear of the ship, it was the front's turn. Starting with the bow rails. Adequate space for the ornaments has to be taken into account here for proper placement.
Then work began on the 3D front section. What makes a huge difference here is the pliability of the supplied 2x2mm beech slats. Not forgetting the paintwork
What remains is the walk of the marines, which is now on the worktable to be painted
Beautiful work wil. I am enjoying your build. Please continue to share your progress.
Beautiful work
I for one, made this mistake, but the lid will hide it. I've only just realised your log, Allan.I love that you drew in the bands and did not plank with strakes ending in a point short of the rabbet.One thing that most, if not all, kits get wrong are ignoring the tapering of the thickness of the wales. They seat in the rabbet, same as all the other planks. That means the thickness has to be reduced to match the other planking so it does not stand proud and can be seated as they should. Further to Serikoff's comment on the gun ports, the first photo he posted shows port lid stops (linings) inside the top of the ports which was not done, at least not on British warships. There were stops on the sides and bottom only.
Allan
I've often wondered if 'Tongue Depressing Strips' wood make into deck planking. They're relatively cheap for boxes of 100 on ebay. I use them to make jigs & stirring sticks for paint etc..
Yes, one MUST have one's balls firmly in place! (Otherwise they'll roll all over the ship!)
Wil, if you intend to add a fill in strip to the gun ports, does that mean the lids will have to be shortened, as that is what I reckon? That broken step needs replacing!
My plan is also to add as much to the hull as I can before painting. Jotika, as I see it, have put the painting instructions too early in the build.
These are mostly made of birch, same as used for popsicle and ice cream sticks. I hated to use them but had to go that route for a client with an ice cream shop called Doozee and used his sticks with the store name showing on some for both the hull and deck planking. It was not the worst wood, but I would not choose it on my own.
Allan
Partially constructed model
Following on from my comment on how copper tape reacted to rain, maybe it would be an idea to expose some tiles to rain - I have 12 left over from my build, so I may try, at the present it's going to be a long wait for rain!
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2024
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24 The chain plates
Last few days, I have also been busy with the chain plates and braces under the chanels. Below are a few photos of the result.
With this, the construction phase of the hull is gradually coming to an end. The parts kit is starting to get pretty empty and the building description has largely been ticked off. Here and there a few little things that have crept in over time.
Meanwhile, the sloops are already on the workbench, we can tackle them nicely in between.
What really remains after that are some fragile parts, such as the railing around the pit, the cannons on the fore castle, the shutters, the lanterns and the hammock nets.
But to what extent is it advisable to tackle these parts even before I start working on the masts?
Last few days, I have also been busy with the chain plates and braces under the chanels. Below are a few photos of the result.
With this, the construction phase of the hull is gradually coming to an end. The parts kit is starting to get pretty empty and the building description has largely been ticked off. Here and there a few little things that have crept in over time.
Meanwhile, the sloops are already on the workbench, we can tackle them nicely in between.
What really remains after that are some fragile parts, such as the railing around the pit, the cannons on the fore castle, the shutters, the lanterns and the hammock nets.
But to what extent is it advisable to tackle these parts even before I start working on the masts?
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2024
- Messages
- 41
- Points
- 78
25 The nets
The nets: I want to knot the nets myself. Does anyone have any experience with this? What yarn should I use? Can this be white or is it better to colour it? What is the best way to go about this?
For several weeks I had been running with this idea in my head and had a complete clarity on how to go about it. For my ship, it comes down to making about 2m of netting, varying from 15 to 50 mm width.
The idea was to tie all knots around needles in a sort of 1.5 mm triangle.
The start was good, on each needle a string double and then at each subsequent row with a string from an adjacent pair to the next row of needles for another knot.
To keep the whole thing a bit apart, I used lace bobbins and made some notches in the edge of the worktop.
A little arithmetic (2000/1.5) x (30/1.5) = 27,000 knots. CRAZY WORK!
I made about 4 layers on the worktop and quit.
Apart from the fact that my yarn was a bit too thick, it became a shapeless piece of cloth, with nothing to do.
End of exercise.
But then what?
I looking for something else. Isn't there a material that is very finely meshed?
All sorts of things passed through. From fly screen, curtain fabric, lace to brass sieve. None of it. All too stiff, not pretty or has no look.
Then I came up with the idea of bandages. My whole first aid box upside down, but all rolls of elastic bandages. Not what I was looking for. You used to have those little rolls that don't stretch anyway and you often can't do anything with. An additional problem was that the nets had to have a diagonally woven pattern. So a narrow strip was no good either.
Until my eye fell on a 10x10cm gauze pad. If you unfold this you get a patch of about 30 by 40cm. Very delicate material, where the slightest touch damages the diamond-shaped pattern.
So first very carefully ironed and fixed the patch with diluted wood glue. Clamped on either side between a couple of slats and laid flat on the worktable. Then carefully stamp with the diluted wood glue so as not to disturb the diamond structure. Then hung vertically to dry. I coloured the wood glue with some strong tea and a little Buisman. In the photo, the colour looks too violently brown, but after drying it becomes a lot lighter.
After drying, a fine material emerged with a stable net structure. Depending on the sizes needed, I cut strips from this diagonally. However, only after I glued a piece of yarn on both edges.
Then lined a piece of plywood with a piece of rubbish bag and bent the strip of net around it and smeared it again with diluted wood glue.
In between, all the U-shaped frames for the nets were attached to the hull and fitted with a rope, which I first ran through the superglue to create a somewhat stiffer and more form-fitting yarn. This was secured at both ends with a small drop of superglue.
After the net has hardened again, it can be removed from the plastic very easily, creating a net in a U-profile.
This can then be inserted into the U-shaped frames. What remains after that is to secure it with glue and Wil is done.
On the advice of a colleague, I have brought forward a number of vulnerable items in the planning, because I will hardly be able to reach them properly once the masts and rigging are in place I am not quite sure whether the same applies to the hatches. However, I will make the lanterns ready for mounting. Hanging the rudder and anchors with their cables can also wait, I think.
Still a little earlier than expected, the subproject of the nets was completed today. This topic has kept me busy for quite some time. After all, I wanted to put it off until later because the whole netting thing is quite fragile. But now that it is finished, I am convinced that this has been the moment. It was a delightful process figuring out how to get to the end result with the gauze. And as always, everything falls apart in hindsight. Or do you forget about time when you are as absorbed in your hobby as I am. I think the latter anyway.
While finalising the netting for the bulwarks, the further completion of the two stairs to the poop deck also came up. The photos of the real Victory that I have give a somewhat messy picture. This may also be because on site, at the time we were there, some kind of temporary walkway had been installed. In my case, it concerns my own interpretation. I also briefly considered using the very thin twine to thread the nets, fitted with an edge rope, onto the rope already stretched in the hammock frames. I did not opt for this, as it would ultimately give a less sleek look. I therefore chose to secure the nets with very small bits of super glue. Oh yes, I also closed the ends of the rows of nets with a net. This is not the case on the real Victory, but it seemed quite illogical to me.
First a few pictures of what this looks like in reality
The photos below give an overview of the final result achieved.
Meanwhile, we are another month on. The completion of the vulnerable parts is progressing slowly. Logical because it is all visible work.
During the netting project, I already noticed regularly that the slightest touch led to distortion or damage of made work. During the rope work later on, this will certainly also be a major risk. Therefore, I built a real riser, say railing, around the hull. I can even hang onto it now and then it's like standing at a vieuwpoint with your arms on the railing and enjoying what you see in front of you. The whole railing consists of four M10 threaded ends, two slats and the necessary nuts and bolts.
Meanwhile, the carronades have also been assembled in place. To be honest, assembling the carronades was one of the first things I did when I started building the kit. After all, I had to get some sense that I was working on a warship. The ropework is from the last few weeks, though.
The nets: I want to knot the nets myself. Does anyone have any experience with this? What yarn should I use? Can this be white or is it better to colour it? What is the best way to go about this?
For several weeks I had been running with this idea in my head and had a complete clarity on how to go about it. For my ship, it comes down to making about 2m of netting, varying from 15 to 50 mm width.
The idea was to tie all knots around needles in a sort of 1.5 mm triangle.
The start was good, on each needle a string double and then at each subsequent row with a string from an adjacent pair to the next row of needles for another knot.
To keep the whole thing a bit apart, I used lace bobbins and made some notches in the edge of the worktop.
A little arithmetic (2000/1.5) x (30/1.5) = 27,000 knots. CRAZY WORK!
I made about 4 layers on the worktop and quit.
Apart from the fact that my yarn was a bit too thick, it became a shapeless piece of cloth, with nothing to do.
End of exercise.
But then what?
I looking for something else. Isn't there a material that is very finely meshed?
All sorts of things passed through. From fly screen, curtain fabric, lace to brass sieve. None of it. All too stiff, not pretty or has no look.
Then I came up with the idea of bandages. My whole first aid box upside down, but all rolls of elastic bandages. Not what I was looking for. You used to have those little rolls that don't stretch anyway and you often can't do anything with. An additional problem was that the nets had to have a diagonally woven pattern. So a narrow strip was no good either.
Until my eye fell on a 10x10cm gauze pad. If you unfold this you get a patch of about 30 by 40cm. Very delicate material, where the slightest touch damages the diamond-shaped pattern.
So first very carefully ironed and fixed the patch with diluted wood glue. Clamped on either side between a couple of slats and laid flat on the worktable. Then carefully stamp with the diluted wood glue so as not to disturb the diamond structure. Then hung vertically to dry. I coloured the wood glue with some strong tea and a little Buisman. In the photo, the colour looks too violently brown, but after drying it becomes a lot lighter.
After drying, a fine material emerged with a stable net structure. Depending on the sizes needed, I cut strips from this diagonally. However, only after I glued a piece of yarn on both edges.
Then lined a piece of plywood with a piece of rubbish bag and bent the strip of net around it and smeared it again with diluted wood glue.
In between, all the U-shaped frames for the nets were attached to the hull and fitted with a rope, which I first ran through the superglue to create a somewhat stiffer and more form-fitting yarn. This was secured at both ends with a small drop of superglue.
After the net has hardened again, it can be removed from the plastic very easily, creating a net in a U-profile.
This can then be inserted into the U-shaped frames. What remains after that is to secure it with glue and Wil is done.
On the advice of a colleague, I have brought forward a number of vulnerable items in the planning, because I will hardly be able to reach them properly once the masts and rigging are in place I am not quite sure whether the same applies to the hatches. However, I will make the lanterns ready for mounting. Hanging the rudder and anchors with their cables can also wait, I think.
Still a little earlier than expected, the subproject of the nets was completed today. This topic has kept me busy for quite some time. After all, I wanted to put it off until later because the whole netting thing is quite fragile. But now that it is finished, I am convinced that this has been the moment. It was a delightful process figuring out how to get to the end result with the gauze. And as always, everything falls apart in hindsight. Or do you forget about time when you are as absorbed in your hobby as I am. I think the latter anyway.
While finalising the netting for the bulwarks, the further completion of the two stairs to the poop deck also came up. The photos of the real Victory that I have give a somewhat messy picture. This may also be because on site, at the time we were there, some kind of temporary walkway had been installed. In my case, it concerns my own interpretation. I also briefly considered using the very thin twine to thread the nets, fitted with an edge rope, onto the rope already stretched in the hammock frames. I did not opt for this, as it would ultimately give a less sleek look. I therefore chose to secure the nets with very small bits of super glue. Oh yes, I also closed the ends of the rows of nets with a net. This is not the case on the real Victory, but it seemed quite illogical to me.
First a few pictures of what this looks like in reality
The photos below give an overview of the final result achieved.
Meanwhile, we are another month on. The completion of the vulnerable parts is progressing slowly. Logical because it is all visible work.
During the netting project, I already noticed regularly that the slightest touch led to distortion or damage of made work. During the rope work later on, this will certainly also be a major risk. Therefore, I built a real riser, say railing, around the hull. I can even hang onto it now and then it's like standing at a vieuwpoint with your arms on the railing and enjoying what you see in front of you. The whole railing consists of four M10 threaded ends, two slats and the necessary nuts and bolts.
Meanwhile, the carronades have also been assembled in place. To be honest, assembling the carronades was one of the first things I did when I started building the kit. After all, I had to get some sense that I was working on a warship. The ropework is from the last few weeks, though.
I like the shade of yellow, Wil.
Stuart
Excellent problem solving. Great technique and well documented.
Thanks for sharing. It looks exceptionally beautiful.