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HMS Victory of Caldercraft by Wil

25 The nets

The nets: I want to knot the nets myself. Does anyone have any experience with this? What yarn should I use? Can this be white or is it better to colour it? What is the best way to go about this?
For several weeks I had been running with this idea in my head and had a complete clarity on how to go about it. For my ship, it comes down to making about 2m of netting, varying from 15 to 50 mm width.
The idea was to tie all knots around needles in a sort of 1.5 mm triangle.

View attachment 524189

The start was good, on each needle a string double and then at each subsequent row with a string from an adjacent pair to the next row of needles for another knot.

View attachment 524190

To keep the whole thing a bit apart, I used lace bobbins and made some notches in the edge of the worktop.

View attachment 524191

A little arithmetic (2000/1.5) x (30/1.5) = 27,000 knots. CRAZY WORK!
I made about 4 layers on the worktop and quit.
Apart from the fact that my yarn was a bit too thick, it became a shapeless piece of cloth, with nothing to do.
End of exercise.
But then what?

I looking for something else. Isn't there a material that is very finely meshed?
All sorts of things passed through. From fly screen, curtain fabric, lace to brass sieve. None of it. All too stiff, not pretty or has no look.

Then I came up with the idea of bandages. My whole first aid box upside down, but all rolls of elastic bandages. Not what I was looking for. You used to have those little rolls that don't stretch anyway and you often can't do anything with. An additional problem was that the nets had to have a diagonally woven pattern. So a narrow strip was no good either.

Until my eye fell on a 10x10cm gauze pad. If you unfold this you get a patch of about 30 by 40cm. Very delicate material, where the slightest touch damages the diamond-shaped pattern.

View attachment 524192

View attachment 524193

So first very carefully ironed and fixed the patch with diluted wood glue. Clamped on either side between a couple of slats and laid flat on the worktable. Then carefully stamp with the diluted wood glue so as not to disturb the diamond structure. Then hung vertically to dry. I coloured the wood glue with some strong tea and a little Buisman. In the photo, the colour looks too violently brown, but after drying it becomes a lot lighter.

View attachment 524194

View attachment 524195

After drying, a fine material emerged with a stable net structure. Depending on the sizes needed, I cut strips from this diagonally. However, only after I glued a piece of yarn on both edges.

View attachment 524196

Then lined a piece of plywood with a piece of rubbish bag and bent the strip of net around it and smeared it again with diluted wood glue.

View attachment 524197

View attachment 524198

In between, all the U-shaped frames for the nets were attached to the hull and fitted with a rope, which I first ran through the superglue to create a somewhat stiffer and more form-fitting yarn. This was secured at both ends with a small drop of superglue.

View attachment 524199

After the net has hardened again, it can be removed from the plastic very easily, creating a net in a U-profile.

View attachment 524200

This can then be inserted into the U-shaped frames. What remains after that is to secure it with glue and Wil is done.

View attachment 524202

On the advice of a colleague, I have brought forward a number of vulnerable items in the planning, because I will hardly be able to reach them properly once the masts and rigging are in place I am not quite sure whether the same applies to the hatches. However, I will make the lanterns ready for mounting. Hanging the rudder and anchors with their cables can also wait, I think.

Still a little earlier than expected, the subproject of the nets was completed today. This topic has kept me busy for quite some time. After all, I wanted to put it off until later because the whole netting thing is quite fragile. But now that it is finished, I am convinced that this has been the moment. It was a delightful process figuring out how to get to the end result with the gauze. And as always, everything falls apart in hindsight. Or do you forget about time when you are as absorbed in your hobby as I am. I think the latter anyway.

While finalising the netting for the bulwarks, the further completion of the two stairs to the poop deck also came up. The photos of the real Victory that I have give a somewhat messy picture. This may also be because on site, at the time we were there, some kind of temporary walkway had been installed. In my case, it concerns my own interpretation. I also briefly considered using the very thin twine to thread the nets, fitted with an edge rope, onto the rope already stretched in the hammock frames. I did not opt for this, as it would ultimately give a less sleek look. I therefore chose to secure the nets with very small bits of super glue. Oh yes, I also closed the ends of the rows of nets with a net. This is not the case on the real Victory, but it seemed quite illogical to me.

First a few pictures of what this looks like in reality

View attachment 524203

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View attachment 524205

The photos below give an overview of the final result achieved.

View attachment 524206

View attachment 524207

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View attachment 524209

View attachment 524210

Meanwhile, we are another month on. The completion of the vulnerable parts is progressing slowly. Logical because it is all visible work.

During the netting project, I already noticed regularly that the slightest touch led to distortion or damage of made work. During the rope work later on, this will certainly also be a major risk. Therefore, I built a real riser, say railing, around the hull. I can even hang onto it now and then it's like standing at a vieuwpoint with your arms on the railing and enjoying what you see in front of you. The whole railing consists of four M10 threaded ends, two slats and the necessary nuts and bolts.

View attachment 524211

Meanwhile, the carronades have also been assembled in place. To be honest, assembling the carronades was one of the first things I did when I started building the kit. After all, I had to get some sense that I was working on a warship. The ropework is from the last few weeks, though.

View attachment 524212
Fantastic idea with the netting very well thought out and executed Will. Great build
 
26 The hammocks

In between jobs, I am fiercely studying how to do it all later with all those ropes. To be continued.

Anyway we pick up where we left off. There were still two sloops in half, which still had to be finished. And I had an idea how I was going to make the hammocks, which should be in the nets. Again, my idea started with the application of bandage gauze. After all, the kit says nothing about the nets and the hammocks and then filling things in as you see fit is also a lot of fun.

My intention was to make small rolls of 3 to 4 mm in diameter and approx. 8 mm in length from gauze. The starting point is gauze that is 8 cm wide and not elastic. From this you cut strips about 6 cm long. And you coat these with diluted wood glue, which has been coloured. In my case, I had some left over from the nets. The idea behind it is that the hammocks on the ship will not have been too clean over time and there will be some nuance in this as well.

P1034177.JPG

I then took a 1 mm bar of brass and rolled the smeared gauze around it as tightly as possible.

P1034180.JPG

Then set this roll aside and carefully pull out the brass bar and let the roll harden. Hard is a big word here, because the highly diluted wood glue keeps the roll somewhat flexible

P1034182.JPG

P1034183.JPG

After a day, the rolls have hardened and the excess can be cut off with sharp scissors. Then cut the rolls into pieces, I vary a little between 8 and 10 mm, so 9 to 10 hammocks will come out of 1 roll.

P1034199.JPG

P1034200.JPG

And then it's packing. Depending on the depth of the nets, I put 0, 1 or 2 layers horizontally at the bottom and alternately 2 horizontally and 3 vertically on top. All vertical is also possible, of course. In fact, varying a little will be more realistic.

P1034188.JPG

P1034189.JPG

I made the hammocks that are in the nets in the photos above yesterday and put them in the nets quite soon after, when they were actually not quite cured yet. No patience of course. The effect, though, is that they are then much more elastic and allow themselves to form nicely. Yesterday at the end of the day, I processed the 19 rolls shown in previous photos. Those were slightly harder this morning, but I think doable. Trimming in both cases went very well with the Japanese kitchen knife, which works like a guillotine and which I also use to trim all my laths etc. Razor-sharp and cuts great.

I currently have 28 rolls of material, good for about 250 hammocks. I estimate enough for half a Victory. For nuance in colour (degree of soiling), I want to apply some darker wood glue here and there at the end, and for fixing I want to apply matt floor varnish. We'll see.

After a few days, all the nets were filled with these hammocks. I did not count them, but estimate that there will be about 500. Although I was dreading it quite a bit beforehand, this part turned out to be much better than I expected. Now that I look at the photos again, they look like huge bales of straw. The sleek look of the hull so far has been somewhat destroyed by this, which is a pity I think. I really have to get used to this "messy" addition. On the other hand, once all the ropework is in place and huge amounts of rope have been put up here and there on the deck, it will not be so bad, I hope.

P1034201.JPG

P1034203.JPG

P1034204.JPG

P1034209.JPG

With this, my hull is now almost finished. In fact, only the hatches remain to be fitted. The nets and hammocks are a personal addition, as the kit does not provide these (only the black brackets are in the kit). I believe this definitely adds something.
 
26 The hammocks

In between jobs, I am fiercely studying how to do it all later with all those ropes. To be continued.

Anyway we pick up where we left off. There were still two sloops in half, which still had to be finished. And I had an idea how I was going to make the hammocks, which should be in the nets. Again, my idea started with the application of bandage gauze. After all, the kit says nothing about the nets and the hammocks and then filling things in as you see fit is also a lot of fun.

My intention was to make small rolls of 3 to 4 mm in diameter and approx. 8 mm in length from gauze. The starting point is gauze that is 8 cm wide and not elastic. From this you cut strips about 6 cm long. And you coat these with diluted wood glue, which has been coloured. In my case, I had some left over from the nets. The idea behind it is that the hammocks on the ship will not have been too clean over time and there will be some nuance in this as well.

View attachment 526031

I then took a 1 mm bar of brass and rolled the smeared gauze around it as tightly as possible.

View attachment 526032

Then set this roll aside and carefully pull out the brass bar and let the roll harden. Hard is a big word here, because the highly diluted wood glue keeps the roll somewhat flexible

View attachment 526033

View attachment 526034

After a day, the rolls have hardened and the excess can be cut off with sharp scissors. Then cut the rolls into pieces, I vary a little between 8 and 10 mm, so 9 to 10 hammocks will come out of 1 roll.

View attachment 526035

View attachment 526036

And then it's packing. Depending on the depth of the nets, I put 0, 1 or 2 layers horizontally at the bottom and alternately 2 horizontally and 3 vertically on top. All vertical is also possible, of course. In fact, varying a little will be more realistic.

View attachment 526037

View attachment 526038

I made the hammocks that are in the nets in the photos above yesterday and put them in the nets quite soon after, when they were actually not quite cured yet. No patience of course. The effect, though, is that they are then much more elastic and allow themselves to form nicely. Yesterday at the end of the day, I processed the 19 rolls shown in previous photos. Those were slightly harder this morning, but I think doable. Trimming in both cases went very well with the Japanese kitchen knife, which works like a guillotine and which I also use to trim all my laths etc. Razor-sharp and cuts great.

I currently have 28 rolls of material, good for about 250 hammocks. I estimate enough for half a Victory. For nuance in colour (degree of soiling), I want to apply some darker wood glue here and there at the end, and for fixing I want to apply matt floor varnish. We'll see.

After a few days, all the nets were filled with these hammocks. I did not count them, but estimate that there will be about 500. Although I was dreading it quite a bit beforehand, this part turned out to be much better than I expected. Now that I look at the photos again, they look like huge bales of straw. The sleek look of the hull so far has been somewhat destroyed by this, which is a pity I think. I really have to get used to this "messy" addition. On the other hand, once all the ropework is in place and huge amounts of rope have been put up here and there on the deck, it will not be so bad, I hope.

View attachment 526039

View attachment 526040

View attachment 526041

View attachment 526042

With this, my hull is now almost finished. In fact, only the hatches remain to be fitted. The nets and hammocks are a personal addition, as the kit does not provide these (only the black brackets are in the kit). I believe this definitely adds something.
Good morning Wil. Kudos on those nets. They are not easy and yours are one of the neatest I have seen. I also like your hammocks and some additional details always add to the ship. You are building and impressive Victory
 
26 The hammocks

In between jobs, I am fiercely studying how to do it all later with all those ropes. To be continued.

Anyway we pick up where we left off. There were still two sloops in half, which still had to be finished. And I had an idea how I was going to make the hammocks, which should be in the nets. Again, my idea started with the application of bandage gauze. After all, the kit says nothing about the nets and the hammocks and then filling things in as you see fit is also a lot of fun.

My intention was to make small rolls of 3 to 4 mm in diameter and approx. 8 mm in length from gauze. The starting point is gauze that is 8 cm wide and not elastic. From this you cut strips about 6 cm long. And you coat these with diluted wood glue, which has been coloured. In my case, I had some left over from the nets. The idea behind it is that the hammocks on the ship will not have been too clean over time and there will be some nuance in this as well.

View attachment 526031

I then took a 1 mm bar of brass and rolled the smeared gauze around it as tightly as possible.

View attachment 526032

Then set this roll aside and carefully pull out the brass bar and let the roll harden. Hard is a big word here, because the highly diluted wood glue keeps the roll somewhat flexible

View attachment 526033

View attachment 526034

After a day, the rolls have hardened and the excess can be cut off with sharp scissors. Then cut the rolls into pieces, I vary a little between 8 and 10 mm, so 9 to 10 hammocks will come out of 1 roll.

View attachment 526035

View attachment 526036

And then it's packing. Depending on the depth of the nets, I put 0, 1 or 2 layers horizontally at the bottom and alternately 2 horizontally and 3 vertically on top. All vertical is also possible, of course. In fact, varying a little will be more realistic.

View attachment 526037

View attachment 526038

I made the hammocks that are in the nets in the photos above yesterday and put them in the nets quite soon after, when they were actually not quite cured yet. No patience of course. The effect, though, is that they are then much more elastic and allow themselves to form nicely. Yesterday at the end of the day, I processed the 19 rolls shown in previous photos. Those were slightly harder this morning, but I think doable. Trimming in both cases went very well with the Japanese kitchen knife, which works like a guillotine and which I also use to trim all my laths etc. Razor-sharp and cuts great.

I currently have 28 rolls of material, good for about 250 hammocks. I estimate enough for half a Victory. For nuance in colour (degree of soiling), I want to apply some darker wood glue here and there at the end, and for fixing I want to apply matt floor varnish. We'll see.

After a few days, all the nets were filled with these hammocks. I did not count them, but estimate that there will be about 500. Although I was dreading it quite a bit beforehand, this part turned out to be much better than I expected. Now that I look at the photos again, they look like huge bales of straw. The sleek look of the hull so far has been somewhat destroyed by this, which is a pity I think. I really have to get used to this "messy" addition. On the other hand, once all the ropework is in place and huge amounts of rope have been put up here and there on the deck, it will not be so bad, I hope.

View attachment 526039

View attachment 526040

View attachment 526041

View attachment 526042

With this, my hull is now almost finished. In fact, only the hatches remain to be fitted. The nets and hammocks are a personal addition, as the kit does not provide these (only the black brackets are in the kit). I believe this definitely adds something.
i am not sure that netting was applied to the ladders . would need proof of that - the netting was for the hammocks which provided some protection for the crew
 
27 The sloops

In between business, I started working on one of the four sloops. The construction description speaks of the following names: launch, barge, pinnace and cutter.
All 4 are very different and it is recommended to work on only one sloop at a time.

P1022900.JPG

P1022901.JPG

First I glued the bulkheads and keel together again, after which the first planking could begin. I had glued the boat on a support, thinking this would be easier and it would be easier to keep the whole thing straight. Not so, you can't move in any direction with your clamps. So I took everything off the support again.

P1022905.JPG

P1022906.JPG

Then I found out that the rear bulkhead was not in the right place, so I ended up with a sloop with a sharp rear end. I adjusted things again and started again with the first planking.

P1022908.JPG

P1022914.JPG

Then started the second planking with 3x0.5 mm slats.

P1022915.JPG

P1022921.JPG

The 4 sloops should all eventually be placed on the skid beams above the pit. There is a drawing in the building instructions of how this should be done. They will then lie tightly against each other. Now that I have finished one sloop, I wonder if this will work. We shall see.

Question: Does anyone know how these sloops were secured to the deck? The underlying boat cleats are included, but no doubt there will be ropework involved.

Meanwhile, the barge is ready and furnished.
Once the second planking was ready, the top part of the bulkheads could be broken out of the boat, after which the bottom could be put into the boat. Meanwhile, on a piece of millimetre paper, the bottom had been planked and could be sanded into shape.

P1022923.JPG

P1022927.JPG

For placing the (fake) rafters, I used two strips of millimetric paper to apply the correct distribution.

P1022932.JPG

And then the painting work begins.

For the coiled rope, I use an inverted piece of tape, with a drill in it, to which I attach one end of the rope. Then, little by little, twist around and use tweezers to press the rope onto the tape. When done, smear it with diluted wood glue.

P1022937.JPG

The straps are already preformed in the brass etching plates. First paint with primer and then paint white and add a red dot. By the way, I recommend priming all brass work first so that the paint adheres better. I did not do this at first (yet) and found that the paint did not adhere well to some parts.

P1022940.JPG

I made the wale around the barque from a 4x0.5mm strip of walnut, which I first wetted and bent into the right shape. I then painted this gold and then applied the two olive-green edges to it.

In the photo below, the keel can also be clearly seen. The original keel is almost impossible to maintain while sanding the first and second planking. I chose to sand away the existing keel completely, and apply a (fake) keel later when the boat is in the right shape. What remains in the picture is the rudder. That is still to come.

P1022955.JPG

As usual, the last thing everything gets another coat of matt clear varnish, which, among other things, removes all the shiny stains from the superglue.

P1022956.JPG

And finally, all ingredients are brought on board and secured with varnish.

P1022957.JPG

De sloep is inmiddels ook helemaal af en ingericht. Om een idee te krijgen, heb ik alvast een plek boven de kuil uitgemeten, samen met de bak.

P1022985.JPG

P1022987.JPG

P1022988.JPG

The second planking of the pinnacle has also been applied, but it still has to be finished. I have just started on the cutter. The 1st planking is on. The roster is in front of the cutter.

P1022990.JPG

P1022989.JPG

P1022992.JPG



P1022956.JPG
 
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27 The sloops

In between business, I started working on one of the four sloops. The construction description speaks of the following names: launch, barge, pinnace and cutter.
All 4 are very different and it is recommended to work on only one sloop at a time.

View attachment 527457

View attachment 527458

First I glued the bulkheads and keel together again, after which the first planking could begin. I had glued the boat on a support, thinking this would be easier and it would be easier to keep the whole thing straight. Not so, you can't move in any direction with your clamps. So I took everything off the support again.

View attachment 527459

View attachment 527460

Then I found out that the rear bulkhead was not in the right place, so I ended up with a sloop with a sharp rear end. I adjusted things again and started again with the first planking.

View attachment 527461

View attachment 527462

Then started the second planking with 3x0.5 mm slats.

View attachment 527463

View attachment 527464

The 4 sloops should all eventually be placed on the skid beams above the pit. There is a drawing in the building instructions of how this should be done. They will then lie tightly against each other. Now that I have finished one sloop, I wonder if this will work. We shall see.

Question: Does anyone know how these sloops were secured to the deck? The underlying boat cleats are included, but no doubt there will be ropework involved.

Meanwhile, the barge is ready and furnished.
Once the second planking was ready, the top part of the bulkheads could be broken out of the boat, after which the bottom could be put into the boat. Meanwhile, on a piece of millimetre paper, the bottom had been planked and could be sanded into shape.

View attachment 527465

View attachment 527466

For placing the (fake) rafters, I used two strips of millimetric paper to apply the correct distribution.

View attachment 527468

And then the painting work begins.

For the coiled rope, I use an inverted piece of tape, with a drill in it, to which I attach one end of the rope. Then, little by little, twist around and use tweezers to press the rope onto the tape. When done, smear it with diluted wood glue.

View attachment 527469

The straps are already preformed in the brass etching plates. First paint with primer and then paint white and add a red dot. By the way, I recommend priming all brass work first so that the paint adheres better. I did not do this at first (yet) and found that the paint did not adhere well to some parts.

View attachment 527470

I made the wale around the barque from a 4x0.5mm strip of walnut, which I first wetted and bent into the right shape. I then painted this gold and then applied the two olive-green edges to it.

In the photo below, the keel can also be clearly seen. The original keel is almost impossible to maintain while sanding the first and second planking. I chose to sand away the existing keel completely, and apply a (fake) keel later when the boat is in the right shape. What remains in the picture is the rudder. That is still to come.

View attachment 527471

As usual, the last thing everything gets another coat of matt clear varnish, which, among other things, removes all the shiny stains from the superglue.

View attachment 527472

And finally, all ingredients are brought on board and secured with varnish.

View attachment 527473

De sloep is inmiddels ook helemaal af en ingericht. Om een idee te krijgen, heb ik alvast een plek boven de kuil uitgemeten, samen met de bak.

View attachment 527475

View attachment 527476

View attachment 527477

The second planking of the pinnacle has also been applied, but it still has to be finished. I have just started on the cutter. The 1st planking is on. The roster is in front of the cutter.

View attachment 527498

View attachment 527478

View attachment 527479



View attachment 527480
Hi Will
Nicely done
you are moving fast ...
 
27 The sloops

In between business, I started working on one of the four sloops. The construction description speaks of the following names: launch, barge, pinnace and cutter.
All 4 are very different and it is recommended to work on only one sloop at a time.

View attachment 527457

View attachment 527458

First I glued the bulkheads and keel together again, after which the first planking could begin. I had glued the boat on a support, thinking this would be easier and it would be easier to keep the whole thing straight. Not so, you can't move in any direction with your clamps. So I took everything off the support again.

View attachment 527459

View attachment 527460

Then I found out that the rear bulkhead was not in the right place, so I ended up with a sloop with a sharp rear end. I adjusted things again and started again with the first planking.

View attachment 527461

View attachment 527462

Then started the second planking with 3x0.5 mm slats.

View attachment 527463

View attachment 527464

The 4 sloops should all eventually be placed on the skid beams above the pit. There is a drawing in the building instructions of how this should be done. They will then lie tightly against each other. Now that I have finished one sloop, I wonder if this will work. We shall see.

Question: Does anyone know how these sloops were secured to the deck? The underlying boat cleats are included, but no doubt there will be ropework involved.

Meanwhile, the barge is ready and furnished.
Once the second planking was ready, the top part of the bulkheads could be broken out of the boat, after which the bottom could be put into the boat. Meanwhile, on a piece of millimetre paper, the bottom had been planked and could be sanded into shape.

View attachment 527465

View attachment 527466

For placing the (fake) rafters, I used two strips of millimetric paper to apply the correct distribution.

View attachment 527468

And then the painting work begins.

For the coiled rope, I use an inverted piece of tape, with a drill in it, to which I attach one end of the rope. Then, little by little, twist around and use tweezers to press the rope onto the tape. When done, smear it with diluted wood glue.

View attachment 527469

The straps are already preformed in the brass etching plates. First paint with primer and then paint white and add a red dot. By the way, I recommend priming all brass work first so that the paint adheres better. I did not do this at first (yet) and found that the paint did not adhere well to some parts.

View attachment 527470

I made the wale around the barque from a 4x0.5mm strip of walnut, which I first wetted and bent into the right shape. I then painted this gold and then applied the two olive-green edges to it.

In the photo below, the keel can also be clearly seen. The original keel is almost impossible to maintain while sanding the first and second planking. I chose to sand away the existing keel completely, and apply a (fake) keel later when the boat is in the right shape. What remains in the picture is the rudder. That is still to come.

View attachment 527471

As usual, the last thing everything gets another coat of matt clear varnish, which, among other things, removes all the shiny stains from the superglue.

View attachment 527472

And finally, all ingredients are brought on board and secured with varnish.

View attachment 527473

De sloep is inmiddels ook helemaal af en ingericht. Om een idee te krijgen, heb ik alvast een plek boven de kuil uitgemeten, samen met de bak.

View attachment 527475

View attachment 527476

View attachment 527477

The second planking of the pinnacle has also been applied, but it still has to be finished. I have just started on the cutter. The 1st planking is on. The roster is in front of the cutter.

View attachment 527498

View attachment 527478

View attachment 527479



View attachment 527480
Bravo on the ships boats Wil. At a 1:72 scale these are beautifully detailed and accurate. Cheers Grant
 
Very neat work. Is the below photo that you posted the pinnace? Thanks
Allan
Hello Allan,
This is indeed the pinas.
I see that you’ve been active on this forum for about a year now. Are you by any chance also working on the Victory? What’s the reason for this question?
 
28 The Gunport Hatches

The hatches: The kit contains very tiny eye bolts that are extremely delicate and flimsy. I tried using them on the guns, but it was not a success. Has anyone had experience with these eye bolts?

For the guns and the rest of the work inside the hull, I used 11 mm eye bolts from Billing. These are actually too large for the guns, but they seem fine as anchor points for rigging coming from the masts. For the gunport hatches, they’re certainly too big, I think.

P1022721.JPG

Earlier on, when the hull could still be tilted, I sized all the hatches accordingly. On some hatches, the wales are interrupted. I continued this profile on the corresponding hatches. Everything was numbered and neatly stored in separate containers for port and starboard for later use.
And now, later has arrived. A project I’ve been dreading for a long time. A lot of repetitive work and very fragile. But the installation of the railings around the ship reassured me. These offer sufficient protection for later on. So in fact, the hull can now be fully completed before I start on the masts and rigging.
To begin, I took a long strip of leftover plywood and marked the numbering of the hatches on it. After each step, the lid can go back in its slot.

P1022948.JPG

I made a small template for installing the hinges, so that all hinges stick out the same amount on each lid.

P1022952.JPG

At this point, the hatches on the starboard side have been painted black once on the outside, and they still need a second coat. The inside and the surrounding edges will be painted reddish brown.

P1022963.JPG

In the above photo it’s hard to see, but the holes for the eye bolts with the ropes are already there. There are only 78 hatches, since not all gunports will have hatches.

All the hatches are now finished and ready to be mounted. The dummy cannons on the lower and middle gun decks are installed. However, I’ve postponed attaching the hatches. I still find it too fragile, and I can always do it later.

In other words, the hull is now completely finished. I’ve checked everything again and as far as I can tell, nothing has been overlooked.

P1022953.JPG
 
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28 The Gunport Hatches

The hatches: The kit contains very tiny eye bolts that are extremely delicate and flimsy. I tried using them on the guns, but it was not a success. Has anyone had experience with these eye bolts?

For the guns and the rest of the work inside the hull, I used 11 mm eye bolts from Billing. These are actually too large for the guns, but they seem fine as anchor points for rigging coming from the masts. For the gunport hatches, they’re certainly too big, I think.

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Earlier on, when the hull could still be tilted, I sized all the hatches accordingly. On some hatches, the wales are interrupted. I continued this profile on the corresponding hatches. Everything was numbered and neatly stored in separate containers for port and starboard for later use.
And now, later has arrived. A project I’ve been dreading for a long time. A lot of repetitive work and very fragile. But the installation of the railings around the ship reassured me. These offer sufficient protection for later on. So in fact, the hull can now be fully completed before I start on the masts and rigging.
To begin, I took a long strip of leftover plywood and marked the numbering of the hatches on it. After each step, the lid can go back in its slot.

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I made a small template for installing the hinges, so that all hinges stick out the same amount on each lid.

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At this point, the hatches on the starboard side have been painted black once on the outside, and they still need a second coat. The inside and the surrounding edges will be painted reddish brown.

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In the above photo it’s hard to see, but the holes for the eye bolts with the ropes are already there. There are only 78 hatches, since not all gunports will have hatches.

All the hatches are now finished and ready to be mounted. The dummy cannons on the lower and middle gun decks are installed. However, I’ve postponed attaching the hatches. I still find it too fragile, and I can always do it later.

In other words, the hull is now completely finished. I’ve checked everything again and as far as I can tell, nothing has been overlooked.

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Indeed very tedious work
Looking good
 
I see that you’ve been active on this forum for about a year now. Are you by any chance also working on the Victory? What’s the reason for this question?
Hi
I built Victory from scratch twice, between 1978 and 1980, but that was a long time ago. I doubt I would ever build another 1st rate.
I realize this may be a kit error, but the reason I asked is the boat in the photo is double banked and pinnaces were single banked. Also, the tholes are even with the thwarts so the rowers could not row the boat. Example of a contemporary drawing of a pinnace and the location of the thwarts is below.
PInnace thole location.JPG
 

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From the hundreds of build logs we see, it is usually a good idea to check contemporary information such as drawings IF that kind of thing is interesting to you. Do what YOU enjoy doing. Research is something some people enjoy, others do not, and after all, building a model is a hobby for most folks, not a science project or history course. :)
Allan
 
Hello Allan,
The drawings that come with the Caldercraft kit also indicate what you mentioned above. I’ve just checked my model to see how I did it with the other boats. These three boats are correctly done, the thole pins are positioned between the benches. With the pinnace, however, I did indeed make a mistake, here the thole pin is above the benches. But the pinnace is already fully fitted out and fixed on the deck, so I’m not going to change that anymore. I think this choice is reasonably acceptable.
Thank you for your attention
 
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